[dhruvmeena96]

Hey everyone!
I'm revisiting my old MASM build, which was unfortunately based off of an older schematic and not the MASM 3 Pro one.
I've already fixed the tubing and dampers and wanted to add a 38D1XJ for that extra bass. So far so good one might think.
What's the best approach to intensify the bass with the 38D1XJ? I already applied an LPad with 4.7 ohm series parallel and it kinda gets there but colours the mids too much.
Here are some measurements for better understanding. I also have impedance measurements ready if needed.
light grey -> 38D1XJ
dark grey -> 38D1XJ with LPad
teal -> all three BAs together
yellow -> only the GQ 30783 and the RAB 32033
red -> a little PEQ applied just to have a picture of how it should look like

add 1000uF lowpass to 38D1XJ in series - and also add one yellow damper

 

[gregeagle]

How did you get the logo to look so nice?

Readily ordered lazercut Logo ordered from AliExpress!!
Here is the link
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO0RGoT

happy building…
Greg

 

[dnspics]

Readily ordered lazercut Logo ordered from AliExpress!!
Here is the link
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO0RGoT

happy building…
Greg

Trank you!

 

[piotrus-g]

add 1000uF lowpass to 38D1XJ in series - and also add one yellow damper

One "0" too much I think haha

 

[Wgibson]

That sounds like a plan. I'm already on a 1mm ID tube with 3.2cm length on the 38 and would have to order smaller ID ones so I think I'll keep that untouched for now.

Thanks a lot, I'll work on it today.

Find some wire insulation that is a tight fit ro the 1mm tube, and use it like you would a damper, strip the wire and put a short section of insulation in the 1mm tube.

 

[Wgibson]

One "0" too much I think haha

Maybe, maybe not... I used 100 and 300uf (switchable). I posted an ebay link (no affiliation) to some 100uf 0805 murata ceramic caps, 100 for 10 bucks, still active now.

 

[mattmatt]

Maybe, maybe not... I used 100 and 300uf (switchable). I posted an ebay link (no affiliation) to some 100uf 0805 murata ceramic caps, 100 for 10 bucks, still active now.

I think because it's typed in 1000uf

 

[piotrus-g]

Maybe, maybe not... I used 100 and 300uf (switchable). I posted an ebay link (no affiliation) to some 100uf 0805 murata ceramic caps, 100 for 10 bucks, still active now.

1000uF + 10 Ohm LPF that's a 15Hz cut off and insane drop in power on the rest of the circuit, sooo.... not to mention the price... For the IEM applications I could only find tantalums with 1000uF - they are between €3-4.8 each lol and the size is also pretty ridiculous 7x4x4mm so roughly around the size of ED driver hahah

 

[Theodoric Paddlefoot]

1000uF + 10 Ohm LPF that's a 15Hz cut off and insane drop in power on the rest of the circuit, sooo.... not to mention the price... For the IEM applications I could only find tantalums with 1000uF - they are between €3-4.8 each lol and the size is also pretty ridiculous 7x4x4mm so roughly around the size of ED driver hahah

I tried the 1000uF with 10 Ohm and the FR looked like it was tilted 45 degrees clockwise

 

[Theodoric Paddlefoot]

add 1000uF lowpass to 38D1XJ in series - and also add one yellow damper

3.2cm 1mm ID tube, yellow damper @16mm, 100uF + 10 ohm Lpad - looks quite good, maybe a little bit too much sub bass? idk, have to listen to this later today and then decide. I'm definitely excited now!

 

[dhruvmeena96]

One "0" too much I think haha

no
its right

nowadays, i prefer to go overboard just to get that nice bass shelf

the bass was fine, if someone want extra oomph, i get rid of woofer damper(sometime i keep it though) and just do overboard 1000uF parallel

but yeah, 100uF is fine


also, its for the memes

 

[Wgibson]

3.2cm 1mm ID tube, yellow damper @16mm, 100uF + 10 ohm Lpad - looks quite good, maybe a little bit too much sub bass? idk, have to listen to this later today and then decide. I'm definitely excited now!

That curve looks great, below 100hz you should be fine with a couple db more than your pinna peak and still sound balanced enough.

You have a wiring schematic?

 

[Theodoric Paddlefoot]

That curve looks great, below 100hz you should be fine with a couple db more than your pinna peak and still sound balanced enough.

You have a wiring schematic?

That sounds promising. I couldn't hear it yet because I'm still trying to finish a modified shell in Fusion 360 so that I can fit the long 32mm tubing for the 38. I'm getting there, slowly.
Here is the schematic, it's basically just the MASM 3 Pro with the 38 added as described. The tubes from the GQ and the RAB are a few mm longer than they'll be in the end, which I noted on the schematic in red. Everything is still on the measuring table. I'm calling it the MASM 5 A (for amateur ^^).

 

[gregeagle]

That sounds promising. I couldn't hear it yet because I'm still trying to finish a modified shell in Fusion 360 so that I can fit the long 32mm tubing for the 38. I'm getting there, slowly.
Here is the schematic, it's basically just the MASM 3 Pro with the 38 added as described. The tubes from the GQ and the RAB are a few mm longer than they'll be in the end, which I noted on the schematic in red. Everything is still on the measuring table. I'm calling it the MASM 5 A (for amateur ^^).

Bass Would increase even more when closed shell… am I right!!!! LOVE IT… mhmmm

 

[musmecca]

That sounds promising. I couldn't hear it yet because I'm still trying to finish a modified shell in Fusion 360 so that I can fit the long 32mm tubing for the 38. I'm getting there, slowly.
Here is the schematic, it's basically just the MASM 3 Pro with the 38 added as described. The tubes from the GQ and the RAB are a few mm longer than they'll be in the end, which I noted on the schematic in red. Everything is still on the measuring table. I'm calling it the MASM 5 A (for amateur ^^).

Looks great! Can't wait to make this one.