[discus123]

Hi all,
@dhruvmeena96

My conifg for above is 38am / 28uap / 2389 / 31736, 2 tubes of ID 2.0mm for low and high.
My problem is I want to lower 3-4db at peak of 7-8k. I have used green damper for high already, I have tried another bigger value of damper for high but it just lower the peak at 2-5k, the peak at 7-8k cannot be tamed. I have stick the tube to the shell and what I can do right now is to adjust the value of capacitor or damper, the length of tube cannot be changed. Anyone have any ideas how to lower the peak of 7-8k are welcomed. Thanks !!

 

[HenacanPodwell]

Hi all,
@dhruvmeena96

My conifg for above is 38am / 28uap / 2389 / 31736, 2 tubes of ID 2.0mm for low and high.
My problem is I want to lower 3-4db at peak of 7-8k. I have used green damper for high already, I have tried another bigger value of damper for high but it just lower the peak at 2-5k, the peak at 7-8k cannot be tamed. I have stick the tube to the shell and what I can do right now is to adjust the value of capacitor or damper, the length of tube cannot be changed. Anyone have any ideas how to lower the peak of 7-8k are welcomed. Thanks !!

Try reducing the overall spl of 31736 i suppose? Try a lower capacitor to cross

 

[amemisome]

Hey guys.
Currently using a pair of headphones AKG K702 from audio technika.
Wondering about replacing those with ciems (that i could use for workout aswell) for gaming.

Did any of you came up with a sound signature close to this?
Basically good soundstage (though i would like it not to big for competitive fps), proper spatial imagining (could be better on the k702 to be honest) and the sound signature is kinda special as it allows to hear footsteps over gunshots, if my memory is correct bass are a little lower than medium (or is it mid-range?).

On a side note, i am looking for shells for my existing materials (
knowlers gk-31732-000
knowles bf-1861-000).
I don't have time at the moment to make custom shells so universal will have to do.
Thanks

I'm fairly new to DIY so I can't help with the setup, but since nobody has replied to you yet and I do know some other stuff here's that I do know.
From the stuff I read here and on other sites, imaging and soundstage seem to come from the drivers and acoustic structures/crossover used more than sound signature. The sound signature that is generally thought of as having more soundstage is something with at least a treble boost, especially a decent pinna gain (2K~3K boost, for this probably by 7~10 dB over 800~1000Hz) seems to help but probably neutral-ish mids also help.
Then take the Shure SE535 for instance, the sound signature isn't what's described above, there's a light boost between 20~600Hz compared to the upper mids and most of the treble region seems more relaxed, giving it a warmer sound signature. Yet despite not exactly having the sound signature that people associate with good imaging and soundstage, a lot of people describe good imaging on these. The SE535's use a variant of the Knowles GK, which I assume means it's a capable driver, so I'm certain somebody knows what setup you should use to optimize the soundstage and imaging on the drivers you have.
Since you want to use a universal shell, from my personal experience wide bore tips help with improving soundstage and imaging so if you don't have those already they may be worth picking up.

Edit:
I forgot to add that having a dip around 2K~4K can make things sound more distant, though iirc this also makes placement slightly worse. Boosting upper treble can add more detail, though some consider this detail to be fake detail.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Hi all,
@dhruvmeena96

My conifg for above is 38am / 28uap / 2389 / 31736, 2 tubes of ID 2.0mm for low and high.
My problem is I want to lower 3-4db at peak of 7-8k. I have used green damper for high already, I have tried another bigger value of damper for high but it just lower the peak at 2-5k, the peak at 7-8k cannot be tamed. I have stick the tube to the shell and what I can do right now is to adjust the value of capacitor or damper, the length of tube cannot be changed. Anyone have any ideas how to lower the peak of 7-8k are welcomed. Thanks !!

if its iec711, that may be the coupler resonance
fitting iem deep or having custom iem will kill it

nice build though, it should be nice sounding

but if you want to really kill that peak, either choose a different damped swfk or cross swfk higher

also, i would damp some of the bass by making a leak somewhere in bass

 

[tirrorex]

I'm fairly new to DIY so I can't help with the setup, but since nobody has replied to you yet and I do know some other stuff here's that I do know.
From the stuff I read here and on other sites, imaging and soundstage seem to come from the drivers and acoustic structures/crossover used more than sound signature. The sound signature that is generally thought of as having more soundstage is something with at least a treble boost, especially a decent pinna gain (2K~3K boost, for this probably by 7~10 dB over 800~1000Hz) seems to help but probably neutral-ish mids also help.
Then take the Shure SE535 for instance, the sound signature isn't what's described above, there's a light boost between 20~600Hz compared to the upper mids and most of the treble region seems more relaxed, giving it a warmer sound signature. Yet despite not exactly having the sound signature that people associate with good imaging and soundstage, a lot of people describe good imaging on these. The SE535's use a variant of the Knowles GK, which I assume means it's a capable driver, so I'm certain somebody knows what setup you should use to optimize the soundstage and imaging on the drivers you have.
Since you want to use a universal shell, from my personal experience wide bore tips help with improving soundstage and imaging so if you don't have those already they may be worth picking up.

Definitly helps, will keep on researching for the sound signature i need
Thanks mate

 

[Luffytaro]

I really wanna die. I spend whole day to build, but just final step, insert wood stick to keep and apply lacquer, then it crack and stuck inside.

 

[seijisandrei]

I really wanna die. I spend whole day to build, but just final step, insert wood stick to keep and apply lacquer, then it crack and stuck inside.

Why did you put a stick again?

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I really wanna die. I spend whole day to build, but just final step, insert wood stick to keep and apply lacquer, then it crack and stuck inside.

Why did you put a stick again?

Yes, why did you put a stick??

Also
Shell is such a hassle, that I have decided to live with Universals.

 

[mattmatt]

Yes, why did you put a stick??

Also
Shell is such a hassle, that I have decided to live with Universals.

There's another level of challenge and fun in making your own shells.

 

[Luffytaro]

Why did you put a stick again?

First time it

Yes, why did you put a stick??

Also
Shell is such a hassle, that I have decided to live with Universals.

Yes, I really don't know why I put a stick. I will make a new one : (

 

[dhruvmeena96]

First time it

Yes, I really don't know why I put a stick. I will make a new one : (

We have a new meme

Try the stick method

If shells break, it's no good

 

[seijisandrei]

First time it

Yes, I really don't know why I put a stick. I will make a new one : (

I did not use sticks on my builds. Don't you have tube for the bores?

 

[tomekk]

I really wanna die. I spend whole day to build, but just final step, insert wood stick to keep and apply lacquer, then it crack and stuck inside.

I will try to glue sharpen stick to broken one inside nozzle. Second way, open faceplate and move stick inside tube by tweezers. Dont worry, repairs and fixing are normal in ciem process building.

 

[Aldo40]

I really wanna die. I spend whole day to build, but just final step, insert wood stick to keep and apply lacquer, then it crack and stuck inside.

For lacquering, plug a 2-pin connector into your IEM and you hold this connector with a small clamp, that’s how you do it. I posted a video a few days ago and you have all the clues you need to do an IEM

 

[MISHKA2020]

I really wanna die. I spend whole day to build, but just final step, insert wood stick to keep and apply lacquer, then it crack and stuck inside.

I want to laugh and cry at the same time. . I went through it all. Stop using a toothpick to close holes when you do lack. The wood absorbs the lack very much and you can no longer take it out. Btw, reduce curring time after lack3 on 4 min. It wan't be that yellow like it is now!