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Home-Made IEMs
- Thread starter Bilavideo
- Start date
Yes i know,
you are right.
My question wasn't clear.
Ι wanted to lower a bit the volume of the 2 38D1XJ00.
And with a second order crossover this isn't possible i believe.
Something wrong with just a resistor in series? Or just use one, were you able to test fitting all that in a shell yet?
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dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
by how much and also where do you wanna crossYes i know,
you are right.
My question wasn't clear.
Ι wanted to lower a bit the volume of the 2 38D1XJ00.
And with a second order crossover this isn't possible i believe.
you can use lpad with 38D1xJ and its subwoofer like enough to avoid crossover
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Guess I need to work on testing drivers without soldering, don't want to solder to a driver twice if I can avoid it. I have multimeter tweezer leads (for checking surface mount components) so I could try just manually holding those to the driver solder pads while measuring.
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dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
first of allI'm very confused at this moment with all this components because I believe they can worsen the sound quality if I do something wrong .
Imagine i can fit 2 x 38D1XJ00 , 1 x 2389D and 1 x EST65QB02 in soundlinks shell which is medium size shell.
It depends the skills .
https://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker-design/crossovers
all you read about crossover and crossover damaging the sound is 90% hoax
if you can adjust phase and impedance
crossover have a huge advantage
a ceramic capacitor wont worsen the sound
neither a metal film resistor
the 10% truth about crossover damaging the sound quality is wasted energy in heat from these component
or capacitor peizo effect
bro, we have technically done everything here in this thread
and a properly designed system offers way less IMD(to the level of none), way better transient and impulse and the only con is just very minute signal lost on component, which can be compensated with increasing the volume
plus, resistor, inductor and caps behave as linear instead of non linear devices
i can go on and on.
components dont make sound worse, its the application
Big capacitor can high pass the 2389D at 200hz if you want, and you could damp or use small diameter tubing to further low pass the 38D1XJ physically
dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
actually high pass 2389D series with 47uFI want to pull out the low frequencies from the 2389D
and make a low pass filter for the 38D1XJ00 at 200 hz
use damper as per taste
and Lpad 38D1XJ with 4.7ohm series parallel
control series resistor to control loudness
add dampers to change and merge the shelf point
and if you are still worried about worsening of sound
get one nP0 ceramic capacitor of super low value(nano farads)
and parallel it with 47uF
this act as a bypass capacitor and nP0 is the best capacitor possible and is used computers for signal integrity.
or if you want to add some musicallity and distortion
go with audiophile electrolyte capacitor and parallel it with nP0
it looks good inside iem too
pyschoacoustic effect
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musmecca
100+ Head-Fier
1. I always wire drivers first on a vice, no tubes, as this is critical and requires a stable platform.General question, which do you finalize first? Assuming you're happy with circuit design and preliminary frequency response measurements.
Do you finalize physical stuff like attaching and gluing tubing, dampers, verify fit in shell.
Or do you do all the wiring first? And risk having to rework or damaging something as you try to get it packed in a shell after it is wired?
2. I attach tubes next.
3. I wire everything together including socket and crossover.
4. I then test output and FR, recognizing it isn't tweaked until it's in the shell. Sometimes I install dampers here.
5. I already have my faceplates and shells drilled and prepped. Depending on the finish, sometimes I attach the faceplates with no electronics and finish edges, dip in laq 3, then simply razor the face back off to receive electronics.
6. Install everything....note I incorporate strain relief (simply glue litz to BA's) and test 1 more time before buttoning up.
7. With extra tube sticking out of bore, I bondic in place...then simply cut tubes flush. Faceplate reattached.
8. Final test then final light lac 3.
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musmecca
100+ Head-Fier
Nice, I am working on CI and SR now, the SR seems to like some open space in front (otherwise highs get reduced using tubes) so I am using a cheap 10mm dd shell.
I also tried peeling off the foil orifice on the front of the SR, but that had no benefit, and reduced 10k+ response.
Edit: I had to reverse phase on the SR, how did you wire it with the 38?
I also tried peeling off the foil orifice on the front of the SR, but that had no benefit, and reduced 10k+ response.
Edit: I had to reverse phase on the SR, how did you wire it with the 38?
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musmecca
100+ Head-Fier
I wired them in parallel. SR had a 20 ohm resistor, sonion 38 had a 30 ohm resistor. I used a 1mm Id on the sonion, about 40+mm long, no damper. The SR was placed in heat shrink tubing..protect the wires! Once close to shrunk, I inserted my 2mm x 10 tube and glued into place. As you mentioned, I inserted the tube but not up to the face of the sr...there is purposefully some gap. Damper is white.Nice, I am working on CI and SR now, the SR seems to like some open space in front (otherwise highs get reduced using tubes) so I am using a cheap 10mm dd shell.
I also tried peeling off the foil orifice on the front of the SR, but that had no benefit, and reduced 10k+ response.
Edit: I had to reverse phase on the SR, how did you wire it with the 38?