[dhruvmeena96]

It is workable, could use some help on the high end. The 0.2mm ID brass tube is almost impractically small, but clearly functions as a low pass filter. Maybe just use a short section of it as an orifice, and maintain more of the subbass volume. Lots of physical tweaking to do if I decide to finalize it. This was mostly just for proof of concept, and electrical practice.

The Raf 330hz high pass showed up as pretty much as expected. No cancelation issues either.

Edit: in theory, I could close the gap on low/mid range between the blue and yellow curves, by adjusting the CI tubing.

What I will do is heavily damp CI with two yellow first

 

[Wgibson]

I have some dampers in the mail, the benefit of smaller brass tubes is easy fit into the nozzle. And cost, 1 foot of small brass tube costs less than a pair of dampers. But I haven't listened yet, could be other issues.

Could be other advantages too, regarding previous discussion in the thread about 3d printing a spiral tube shape, similar to the se846 manifold, maybe you could coil the brass on the outside of a PVC tube to get extra length.

Edit: I may put a SR-6438 in there instead of the Raf, that could be an interesting cheap-ish basshead set up. I have 4 pairs of the Raf and want to do something a little more reasonable with them. Not worth using up the Rafs unless I add another driver(s) for a boost on the top end, and I need to get more finished projects under my belt before I go that complex.

The SR-6438 is a little more sensitive than the Raf, which will be good because the CI is relatively loud. 25 ohm SR vs 22 Raf, may mess up the impedance a bit but it should still be pretty flat.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I have some dampers in the mail, the benefit of smaller brass tubes is easy fit into the nozzle. And cost, 1 foot of small brass tube costs less than a pair of dampers. But I haven't listened yet, could be other issues.

Could be other advantages too, regarding previous discussion in the thread about 3d printing a spiral tube shape, similar to the se846 manifold, maybe you could coil the brass on the outside of a PVC tube to get extra length.

Edit: I may put a SR-6438 in there instead of the Raf, that could be an interesting cheap-ish basshead set up. I have 4 pairs of the Raf and want to do something a little more reasonable with them. Not worth using up the Rafs unless I add another driver(s) for a boost on the top end, and I need to get more finished projects under my belt before I go that complex.

The SR-6438 is a little more sensitive than the Raf, which will be good because the CI is relatively loud. 25 ohm SR vs 22 Raf, may mess up the impedance a bit but it should still be pretty flat.

i said to damp CI, so you can get harman style bass shelf and then some optimization afterwards will make it really sound flagship level nice

 

[HenacanPodwell]

Hello everyone, I am trying to cross 1audio 31736 at 10khz, i have tried many series capacitor and the best I could get is with 0.11uf which gives me this graph, and the SPL is crazy low. However, what I would like is to only have frequency above 10k,, is there anyway I could do this? Would love it if someone can guide me to the right path. Thanks !
Edit: Picture added.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Hello everyone, I am trying to cross 1audio 31736 at 10khz, i have tried many series capacitor and the best I could get is with 0.11uf which gives me this graph, and the SPL is crazy low. However, what I would like is to only have frequency above 10k,, is there anyway I could do this? Would love it if someone can guide me to the right path. Thanks !

Add a bigger cap and control resist it.
There would be many combos but you have to do it

Smaller single caps also limits power transfer, so they might have lower distortion, but they also get a load of dB loss.

If it was sharp cutoff, then you might have got some efficiency, but it's hard to implement in iem

 

[HenacanPodwell]

Add a bigger cap and control resist it.
There would be many combos but you have to do it

Smaller single caps also limits power transfer, so they might have lower distortion, but they also get a load of dB loss.

If it was sharp cutoff, then you might have got some efficiency, but it's hard to implement in iem

Thank you for the reply!
What do you mean by control resist it? I tried bigger series capacitor, but it has a lot of 7 to 8k, and it makes it really sharp, i only wants the treble after 10k.
Also I just realized that i forgot to include the picture of the graph! Silly me.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Thank you for the reply!
What do you mean by control resist it? I tried bigger series capacitor, but it has a lot of 7 to 8k, and it makes it really sharp, i only wants the treble after 10k.
Also I just realized that i forgot to include the picture of the graph! Silly me.

Hmmmm
Having bigger cap will cause you to have those peaks.

Ok here is my suggestion

Run swfk on fullrange and first adjust tube lenght and ID in such a way, that most of peaks and dip are mostly sorted(shifting peaks to comfortable region).

Bigger lengh tube shifts the peaks to right
Smaller lenght tube shifts peak to left.
Also, there is tube resonances, so as you increase tube lenght, the tube resonances make the peak shifting to right of frequency response graph starts to rise and maximum gain happens when BA natural peak coincides with resonance shift and tube resonance.

So here is my suggestion
Which might work perfectly for you

First adjust the tweeter tube lenght on fullrange. (2mm ID)
Then turn this tube into stepped horn consisting 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm

Then try crossing it

Try to shift resonances to higher octaves

 

[HenacanPodwell]

Hmmmm
Having bigger cap will cause you to have those peaks.

Ok here is my suggestion

Run swfk on fullrange and first adjust tube lenght and ID in such a way, that most of peaks and dip are mostly sorted(shifting peaks to comfortable region).

Bigger lengh tube shifts the peaks to right
Smaller lenght tube shifts peak to left.
Also, there is tube resonances, so as you increase tube lenght, the tube resonances make the peak shifting to right of frequency response graph starts to rise and maximum gain happens when BA natural peak coincides with resonance shift and tube resonance.

So here is my suggestion
Which might work perfectly for you

First adjust the tweeter tube lenght on fullrange. (2mm ID)
Then turn this tube into stepped horn consisting 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm

Then try crossing it

Try to shift resonances to higher octaves

Thank you for the swift reply! I see, I will try it out tomorrow as its getting late here. Another question, for dual drivers like 2389d, do i only need to solder one terminal of a ba or do i have to solder both of them? What about drivers like 30017? Thank you!

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Thank you for the swift reply! I see, I will try it out tomorrow as its getting late here. Another question, for dual drivers like 2389d, do i only need to solder one terminal of a ba or do i have to solder both of them? What about drivers like 30017? Thank you!

It's a choice..

I always solder wire on both BA of 2389 and then do any kind of series or parallel

For twfk 30017
I snip of the pre done wire

And seperate wbfk and FK

And then use it

Makes life easier as there are some situation where you need to reverse only one driver phase or you need very complex crossover on one specific driver

 

[528367]

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Huge role plays the output impedance of your amplifier. Output impedance must be under 1 ohm.
2.2 uf is good I guess.
then place it as near as possible to the nozzle with 10mm tube length.

Just add resistor
And then cross it

 

[528367]

 

[528367]

 

[dhruvmeena96]

One cap is enough I believe. One cap 2.2 uf is the lowest you can go and is the standard for the most tweeters .



10mm length i mean ,

Best is , the length of the tube to be as short as possible , depends of course the length of the nozzle .

i even use 470nF on some iem
and even 0.1uF

ir depends on the application
for me 2.2uF is very high and i use 1uF and bellow that

 

[528367]