Never mind. Brain fart. You've got it right.
Home-Made IEMs
- Thread starter Bilavideo
- Start date
dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
Plus no need of adding 22ohms parallel to EDHere is the schematic for the Heavy 2 version.....I kept the 22 Ohm resistor originally on the ED and used the 2.2 Uf Cap as described to get the high pass. Let me know if I've missed anything, particularly on the polarity....I reversed the ED.
Just make it CEnter tap 2.2uF
GeneBush
New Head-Fier
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For those interested in a 10 drivers with a "large" U shape sound with subbass 10-100hz; flat mids 120hz - 2khz and sparkle highs (great for singers in live situations)
Dual Sonion 38AM
R1=100 OHM
Tubing 25mm in total
10mm large tube for both spouts (3mm OD/2.5mm ID) (yellow & orange damper facing driver 3mm from spout)
9mm skinny tube 2.5 mm OD
10mm steel tube 1.5 mm OD
___________________________________
DTEC 3008 (polarity inversed)
Bandpass Filter
C1=22uF
R2=68ohm
C2=2.2uF
R3=24ohm
Tubing 35mm in total
7mm skinny tube silicone
7mm large tube (yellow damper)
17mm skinny tube silicone
10mm steel tube
___________________________________
Dual SWFK 31736
C4 = 1.5uF
Note* : You can add a R4 = 10ohm (connected in series for further attenuation)
70mm Tubing in total
10mm large tube 3mm OD/2.5mm ID silicone for both spouts
54mm skinny tube 2.5mm OD / 1.5mm ID silicone
10mm steel tube TOTAL
(length 6mm -1.5 mm OD with
Length 6mm 2mm OD/1.6mm ID hornet
All tube inserts 2mm.
Dual Sonion 38AM
R1=100 OHM
Tubing 25mm in total
10mm large tube for both spouts (3mm OD/2.5mm ID) (yellow & orange damper facing driver 3mm from spout)
9mm skinny tube 2.5 mm OD
10mm steel tube 1.5 mm OD
___________________________________
DTEC 3008 (polarity inversed)
Bandpass Filter
C1=22uF
R2=68ohm
C2=2.2uF
R3=24ohm
Tubing 35mm in total
7mm skinny tube silicone
7mm large tube (yellow damper)
17mm skinny tube silicone
10mm steel tube
___________________________________
Dual SWFK 31736
C4 = 1.5uF
Note* : You can add a R4 = 10ohm (connected in series for further attenuation)
70mm Tubing in total
10mm large tube 3mm OD/2.5mm ID silicone for both spouts
54mm skinny tube 2.5mm OD / 1.5mm ID silicone
10mm steel tube TOTAL
(length 6mm -1.5 mm OD with
Length 6mm 2mm OD/1.6mm ID hornet
All tube inserts 2mm.
Last edited:
musmecca
100+ Head-Fier
Good eye! I missed the CT the first time. I assume the 2.2 cap is direct to CT since that is constant and I will reverse polarity as needed to correct phase? Here is corrected:
dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
Reverse 33AJ tooGood eye! I missed the CT the first time. I assume the 2.2 cap is direct to CT since that is constant and I will reverse polarity as needed to correct phase? Here is corrected:
I mean you have to check the phase in retrospect to HODVTEC
The HODVTEC damper is double yellow or 4700ohms foam damper by knowles
musmecca
100+ Head-Fier
I saw the yellow in the description of the first iteraton ( posted a few back...you possibly didn't see it) but wasn't sure if it was a typo. I assumed the tube for the Dtec is a 1 mm because you wanted it as long as possible. If so, would I put the damper(s) right at the dtec spout?
musmecca
100+ Head-Fier
It appears the negative for the Sonions are passing through the positive leg of the Dtec..am I missing something? Would love to see the graph of this build if you have it as well as a gut shot...interested to see if it can fit in my ear!For those interested in a 10 drivers with a "large" U shape sound with subbass 10-100hz; flat mids 120hz - 2khz and sparkle highs (great for singers in live situations)
Dual Sonion 38AM
R1=100 OHM
Tubing 25mm in total
10mm large tube for both spouts (3mm OD/2.5mm ID) (yellow & orange damper facing driver 3mm from spout)
9mm skinny tube 2.5 mm OD
10mm steel tube 1.5 mm OD
___________________________________
DTEC 3008 (polarity inversed)
Bandpass Filter
C1=22uF
R2=68ohm
C2=2.2uF
R3=24ohm
Tubing 35mm in total
7mm skinny tube silicone
7mm large tube (yellow damper)
17mm skinny tube silicone
10mm steel tube
___________________________________
Dual SWFK 31736
C4 = 1.5uF
Note* : You can add a R4 = 10ohm (connected in series for further attenuation)
70mm Tubing in total
10mm large tube 3mm OD/2.5mm ID silicone for both spouts
54mm skinny tube 2.5mm OD / 1.5mm ID silicone
10mm steel tube TOTAL
(length 6mm -1.5 mm OD with
Length 6mm 2mm OD/1.6mm ID hornet
All tube inserts 2mm.
GeneBush
New Head-Fier
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My bad on that...it was the first time that i used an app to make the schematics. Will edit it asap
Last edited:
musmecca
100+ Head-Fier
I've been thinking about this...the test I showed was ability to discern a particular frequency once it reaches a particular DB. You are correct, the TOP limit wasn't checked...is that what a "tinnitus" test does and if not does your sister know of a test that does that?
Farquarl
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
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- Posts
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I found this test, i don´t think a tinnitus test is the same.
https://www.thebsa.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Uncomfortable-Loudness-Level-1.pdf
HenacanPodwell
New Head-Fier
Hello everyone, I would like to ask a few question regarding low pass and high pass filter. How do one make low pass and high pass filter? I do find calculator online but I am not too sure what value to put into the calculator. Lets say I want a 22955 low pass at 500 hz, and 29689 high pass at 500 hz as well, how do I calculate them?
link to 29689 specification https://www.knowles.com/docs/default-source/model-downloads/ed-29689-000.pdf
link to 22955 specfication https://www.knowles.com/docs/default-source/model-downloads/ci-22955-000.pdf
29689
22955
Thank you very much!
link to 29689 specification https://www.knowles.com/docs/default-source/model-downloads/ed-29689-000.pdf
link to 22955 specfication https://www.knowles.com/docs/default-source/model-downloads/ci-22955-000.pdf
29689
22955
Thank you very much!
Two ways.
One is experimentation with just a single cap on the ED and a combination of a resistor(really doesn't act as a LP filter though) and dampers on the CI.
The other, which is slightly more complicated, involves building an RC filter for each pass. The good news is that the values of the components are the same. You start by figuring out how much attenuation (if any) is needed on your (hopefully) low freq driver, and build that into the RC filter.
One is experimentation with just a single cap on the ED and a combination of a resistor(really doesn't act as a LP filter though) and dampers on the CI.
The other, which is slightly more complicated, involves building an RC filter for each pass. The good news is that the values of the components are the same. You start by figuring out how much attenuation (if any) is needed on your (hopefully) low freq driver, and build that into the RC filter.
HenacanPodwell
New Head-Fier
Hello! Thank you for the reply! What are the exact values that I should be looking for and taking from the specification to calculate the RC filter? Also by attenuation do u mean by adding resistor in series to reduce the spl of the lower frequency driver?
Thank you!
musmecca
100+ Head-Fier
I use the first calculator located below for crossovers. I plug in values until the crossover point is found....whether it is LP or HP depends on the configuration. For 500HZ I came up with 17.7Ohms and an 18UF cap. Then you may have to adjust if there is not a readily available value, or use resistors/cap in parallel or series to get the desired point. Regarding Zobels and padding, I use the second one, though there is lots of discussion as to which value for the impedance to use, as BA's impudence changes in relation to the frequency being applied. I usually put in an average of the datasheet values and guesstimate as to the DB drop I'm looking for. I take it you have a test rig, as it is still a lot of trial and error?
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-RCpad.htm
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-Lpad.htm
