Home-Made IEMs
Jan 23, 2019 at 12:35 AM Post #7,996 of 15,973
Not sure if this method would work for you guys, but when I do resin casting projects, I remove bubbles with a blowtorch.

Now, before anyone freaks out, you literally pass the torch over the material for 0.001 seconds. You can pass the torch over your bare hand in that short amount of time and not even feel it.

This isn't my video, but this shows the method:



You can also do a similar thing with a heat gun. Again, it only takes a fraction of a second - nowhere near long enough to do any damage to an IEM driver.

You can see the heat gun method here (again, not my video):

 
Jan 23, 2019 at 7:44 AM Post #7,997 of 15,973
The pictures are not loading bro



By the way, does anybody know, how to make a BA behave like Dynamic driver. I mean the mellow sound plus a pretty nice Decay.

I mean to ask, is it possible on BA. BA are very fast, i mean an impulse of <1.5ms is damn fast, but this behavior is static and uniform in BA driver whereas dynamic impulse is always an average of frequency points, which can mean that it can be slower(Decayish) on some parts and faster on some, averaged as impulse.

i want BA to get a little loose on sub bass side and show beautiful decay.

i am thinking of creating a BA all version of the legendary Sony MDR 7550

I use a bass driver and a "delayed" bass driver (one with a really long tube) to simulate the effect. But results needs a lot of trial and error.
 
Jan 23, 2019 at 7:58 AM Post #7,999 of 15,973
Ok, now thats what i needed to know

well how long do you use(Just a general number)

Can't help you on that haha - you gotta test it so you get a length that doesn't screw up the midrange.

I used 80mm length x 0.5mm diameter tube, with a regular mid-bass driver with 15mm length and 1.5mm-2mm diameter last time I think.

Edit: Okay, I noted it down on a file I saved on my computer. One of the designs was this:

BK21610 - 20ohm + 33uf + 33uf (caps in parallel) in phase (50mm L x 0.5mm D silicon, in between 10-15mm L x 2mm D Sbass chamber, 20mm L x 0.5mm D silicon)
BK21610 - 4.02ohm + 15.6uf in phase (5mm L x 1mm D Silicon)
WBFK30095 - 1uf + 50ohm (5mm L x 1mm D Silicon)
into 10mm L x 3mm D Carbon Fiber
 
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Jan 23, 2019 at 8:05 AM Post #8,000 of 15,973
The pictures are not loading bro



By the way, does anybody know, how to make a BA behave like Dynamic driver. I mean the mellow sound plus a pretty nice Decay.

I mean to ask, is it possible on BA. BA are very fast, i mean an impulse of <1.5ms is damn fast, but this behavior is static and uniform in BA driver whereas dynamic impulse is always an average of frequency points, which can mean that it can be slower(Decayish) on some parts and faster on some, averaged as impulse.

i want BA to get a little loose on sub bass side and show beautiful decay.

i am thinking of creating a BA all version of the legendary Sony MDR 7550

Adding resistors to BA increases decay rate (mostly in lows), plus adding dampers (green and up) makes them sound less articulate/precise
 
Jan 23, 2019 at 11:49 AM Post #8,001 of 15,973
Hey guys,

I’m new to diy iems. Therefore I want to start with some simple iems based on universal shells.

What are good brands for dynamic drivers?
 
Jan 23, 2019 at 11:19 PM Post #8,002 of 15,973
The things which effects the sound stage directly

1.annular nodes/ Undampness of driver
2. THD+N(total harmonic distortion)
3. IMD(inter modulated distortion)
4. TUHD(total inharmonic distortion)
5. Saturation current(voice coil saturation)
6. Phase (phase)...


1. Dampness of driver decide how tight the driver moves at specific frequency, thus reducing the range of dip( Q factor or widht of peak), so the peak area reduces, leading some clarity of instruments. It is like taking the veil off and good transient response. Damped driver dont show annular node.




2. THD+N is harmonic distortion or fundamental distortion happening when you play your music. That distortion is fundamental with the fundamental tone. This can warm up, or colour music. Clearing it up, cleanse the background image, and gives blackness or space to it.





3. Intermodulation (IM) or intermodulation distortion (IMD) is the amplitude modulation of signals containing two or more different frequencies, caused by nonlinearities or time variance in a system. The intermodulation between frequency components will form additional components at frequencies that are not just at harmonic frequencies (integer multiples) of either, like harmonic distortion, but also at the sum and difference frequencies of the original frequencies and at sums and differences of multiples of those frequencies. The same dipping effect also happens and is also a part of IMD. IMD is real reason of the staging issue.

the stage or resolution or rendering from single driver can be lower compared to multidriver is because of dipping of frequency in burst of signal

if 20kHz and 18KHz burst together in sample tone, it will compensate the sound at 20-18= 2kHz. It will dip that 2kHz slightly within the impulse. This happens to fast to notice, so change in frequency response become unnoticebale, but the lower dB can lower the render of stage and reality. That is physical nature of diaphragm to protect from rupture. Studies are still going on

For example, slow acoustic or classical song with vocal and few instrument sounds bigger than complex passage of song, which kinda gets compressed.

in multi driver, the tweeter when bursts 20kHz and 18kHz, doesnt play 2kHz. That is played by mid range driver, so no loss of signal . this leads to bigger presentation on multi driver. That may explain the crossover theory. multi driver helps in field diffusion, distortion figure too




4. TUHD is inharmonic distortion or over distortion happening due to overtones. Like PVC tubing vs titanium etc.
Driver produce some overtone depending to its material buildup. Thats what make them different sounding. TUHD also helps user to differentiate easily between loudspeaker driver. It can make a artificial stage or completely collapse it. If you remove TUHD factor, you get very clean overtone which supplements the fundamental tone, building up the echo nature and room size. Some soundstage have no walls is due to this.




5. Saturation threshold increase and total realtime saturation reduction gives driver more freedom to not limit within a freq spectrum, and crossing with this sort of nature reduce every distortion factor immensely.




6. Phase is final and most important. Phase shifts can cancel frequency, but quick phase shifts do nothing on response. What they do, is make the human brain compensate for it, thus leading to a brain information lag. A perfect phase IEM will always construct a proper instrument position in a space called sound image. This also reduces headaches due to longer listening period and reduces ear damage.

When brain trys to compensate, it tightens the eardrum more, creating fatigue sometimes.


Hope this may help



And now finally is the tuning of IEM.

After all this, a specific tuning always sounds larger than other. All the soundstage values lie in

Low end harmonics
20Hz to 40Hz(depth) subbass rumble
40Hz to 70Hz(intensity or reverse z axis, inside the ear...important as you have to build the same stage inside out, for a complete experience) ear licking bass..

Mid range harmonics
The 2k 3k peak. Hit and trial increment or decrement, prefer damped decrement as it space out thing and relax the vocal harmonic range.

Ear resonance(universal design iem only)


Ear canal length is in between 27mm to 32mm

Which gives an average of 6kHz and 11.2kHz resonance with normal earbuds.

Damp and notch these out somehow and enjoy the super stage.

Courtesy from Ocharaku (total respect)

Air
Lol.

From 8kHz to unknown Hz

Lower treble freq range decide grain and structure of air. Mid treble range decide the length of air. The time at which it is present after the tone is finished(gives the sound stage effect) and higher freq decides the echo of air( Sennheiser HD800)


Decay
This also do a lot of thing, but I am studying that factor. I will update it here


all the experience coming doing social service for old age home(making hearing aids for them free of charge)


I use comsol multi physics

With pipe module, and acoustic module with muffler addon


Hope my posting doesn't offend the diy community here with theory and lecture

And please correct me if my wrong at some point

I am still learning a lot(basically amps and driver)
 
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Jan 24, 2019 at 5:39 PM Post #8,004 of 15,973
Not sure if this method would work for you guys, but when I do resin casting projects, I remove bubbles with a blowtorch.

Now, before anyone freaks out, you literally pass the torch over the material for 0.001 seconds. You can pass the torch over your bare hand in that short amount of time and not even feel it.

I tried both (torch and heat gun) with Dreve Fotoplast and first it doesn’t react at all to heat and if you apply more heat then it will turn yellowish/brownish and lots of bubbles will appear.

YMMV, but with dreve fotoplast that doesn’t seem to work at all.
 
Jan 24, 2019 at 7:08 PM Post #8,006 of 15,973
Has anyone experimented with different tube wall widths? I wonder wether a 2mm ID 3mm OD will sound different from a 2mm ID and 3.5mm OD.
I fill up the ear canal with resin, but I suspect there still could be a difference with a thicker tubing.
Any experiences?
 
Jan 25, 2019 at 10:02 AM Post #8,007 of 15,973
Not UV resin. Just plain cold cure acrylic.

I did not use lacquer too since i'm still in trial and error phase. Took me hours to polish this. But still have micro scratches.
 

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Jan 26, 2019 at 1:08 AM Post #8,009 of 15,973
So I’ve been looking online and ordering BA driver but I don’t see any information on the forums for the website telling me the size of the nozzles in millimeters. And the dampeners also have the same info for the size with an upside down T.

Is this 2.08mm? I don’t see info PDF say millimeters nor do I know what the upside down T is.

I’d appreciate it if someone could give me a list of common sizes acoustical tubing I should buy and any other fittings.
33003403658_45ef939ecf_z_d.jpg

Thanks everyone.
 
Jan 26, 2019 at 3:41 AM Post #8,010 of 15,973
It’s ~1mm. One common trick is to attach 1mm ID, 2mm OD tubing to the nozzle and then 2mm ID 3 or 3.5mm OD tubing to that. This second tube is where the damper fits.

Tubing and damper greatly affect sound, so experiment. BA are much faster compared to dynamic drivers, so you wil want to introduce some resonance to the bass. Also they have peeks and valleys in the frequency response you want to reduce or increase.
 

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