How did you measure the decay?Finally I can fill the dip in 5kHz. The modi that I have made is re-adjusting the tubing length in the ratio of, bass=1 / mid=1.2 / high=2 , this ratio formula is previously posted by dhruvmeena96 in this thread. Further more, I have used bigger value of cap for 31736 replacing 0.33uf. The dip in 5kHz looks better now.
My hybrid config is low: tusq DD 10mm x1/ low_mid: sonion 37ap015 x1 / mid_high: sonion 2389 x1/ high: knowles 31736 x1
The FR looks close to VE8, VE8 consists of low: sonion 38am x1 / low_mid: sonion 37ap015 x1 / mid and high: knowles 32254 x2
Sorry for my late reply. I measure with the iec711 artifical ear. I have bought 2 sets from the same seller in Taobao, the 1st one I bought while measure the FR is not too stable and I guess it is damaged then I bought another one, but finally find out is the connection cable problems. 2 of them are now working fine after changing the cable. The seller come along with the Readme file for setup Arta and steps on calibrate the iec711. The seller also provided a FR Compensation file for Arta. I just followed the config in the readme file, I can't remember the setup in Arta, right now I'm still in the office.
A sonion build of 3300 plus a 2389 is also VERY good.
Thanks for the info. This was my first approach but I'd had trouble keeping the inside of the shell blemish free (even without supports inside the shell) so started trying the other way up (easier to sand the outside). I've always struggled to sand the insides but have ordered some sanding cones now, which I hope will help. I think I may have also been getting tiny bits of uncured resin attaching itself to the inside, so I may need to be more thorough with the pre-cure cleaning. Hopefully get a chance to experiment again soon. Dipping (or spraying) rather than brushing sounds very tempting too, but I don't have much lack 3 and that stuff is expensive so not sure if I'll be trying that. Cheers
ah, interesting. Not seen one of these before. Will check it out. ThanksTo sand the inside of the shell, I use this tool for Dremel, I can’t remember what it’s called. C is like a split arrow for sticking pieces of paper
Never sanded the inside of a shell. Why would one sand the inside? I do drill them for sockets and tubes but never sanded them.To sand the inside of the shell, I use this tool for Dremel, I can’t remember what it’s called. C is like a split arrow for sticking pieces of paper
a traditional buttersworth crossover will cause a electrical phase shift. Majority of us will use capacitors and resistors in series with driver. Not parallel. So, the signal chain would look like:
Sorry, how do you do the UV treatment?On 3D printing with clear resin, to have a look like glass you had to sanded and varnish all the inner and outer hulls, you can dip the hulls directly into the varnish and then do the UV treatment.
For the orientation of the shell in shitubox or lychee, I put the nozzle up straight and I mount the 8mm piece and I apply the automatic support, and I remove the internal support and I print.
Each resin has its own properties so you have to adjust its settings by doing tests.
And you’re right, 3D printing isn’t as simple as it sounds
The most difficult is to print the clear hulls not tinted.
