Home-Made IEMs
Feb 6, 2022 at 11:19 AM Post #13,651 of 14,305

Psypato92

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Someone stepped on my BGVP VG4... So here are it's internals. It uses 2x green dampers, the 29689 and the 33518 is glued together in a 2mm ID and the 33AJ 1mm ID. Very interesting. Someone could try crossing these over and graphing to see if they match at all :p
You can
Someone stepped on my BGVP VG4... So here are it's internals. It uses 2x green dampers, the 29689 and the 33518 is glued together in a 2mm ID and the 33AJ 1mm ID. Very interesting. Someone could try crossing these over and graphing to see if they match at all :p
Could you tell us how the switch is connected to the pcb and the components of this?? Please
 
Feb 7, 2022 at 3:11 AM Post #13,653 of 14,305

hoskoau

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What's the correct technique to remove an impression from Agar. I've been using a dental tool but the impression doesn't come out easily and I've pulled the tool out of the silicone and sliced my finger a couple of times.

Also I've been heating the wax up to between 160-180f and I keep getting shardes of wax fall off the impression in the mould. Is this just related to not being able to extract the impression easily.

Thanks
 
Feb 7, 2022 at 10:50 AM Post #13,654 of 14,305

musmecca

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What's the correct technique to remove an impression from Agar. I've been using a dental tool but the impression doesn't come out easily and I've pulled the tool out of the silicone and sliced my finger a couple of times.

Also I've been heating the wax up to between 160-180f and I keep getting shardes of wax fall off the impression in the mould. Is this just related to not being able to extract the impression easily.

Thanks
I take the colloid out of the plastic form first....I can give a few squeezes and observe the seal being broken between my silicone and the colloid. I always rotate as I lever out. If you are having wax issues, use red dental wax...it is very elastic and doesn't flake.
 
Feb 8, 2022 at 3:15 AM Post #13,656 of 14,305

hoskoau

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I take the colloid out of the plastic form first....I can give a few squeezes and observe the seal being broken between my silicone and the colloid. I always rotate as I lever out. If you are having wax issues, use red dental wax...it is very elastic and doesn't flake.
Thanks that makes a lot of sense to release it.

I've been using Dreve paraffin dipping wax, it's listed as having a processing temp of 75degC. Maybe because I'm not releasing before attempting to pull it out I'm putting too much pressure on the wax
 
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Feb 8, 2022 at 4:28 AM Post #13,657 of 14,305

swtnate

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Thanks that makes a lot of sense to release it.

I've been using Dreve paraffin dipping wax, it's listed as having a processing temp of 75degC. Maybe because I'm not releasing before attempting to pull it out I'm putting too much pressure on the wax
I have had THE WORST amount of frustrations during my time dealing with paraffin/ candle waxes. Even the ”red dipping wax” from both dreve and aliexpress gave me nothing but headaches. I switched to using dental denture dipping wax. It has a really melting temp so you can pour your colloid at a much warmer temperature equaling less bubbles in the negative. I have put mine in the pressure champer at 4bar with really good results when things get a little weird for no reason.
 
Feb 8, 2022 at 10:05 AM Post #13,658 of 14,305

mckpaul

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I have a couple of questions about the Knowles GV-32830 quad driver. I'm a bass player, so my primary use would be stage monitor as opposed to high fidelity. I've read where the 32830 has a good mid/vocal range and the bass isn't terribly strong, and I assume this would be for the basic damper setup of White 680 on the tweeter and Brown 1000 on the lows. I also see that the quad driver has four back vents with removable seals... 1 tape and 2 screws.

So for a build using only these drivers but wanting a more full bass sound (being a bass guitar player) but not excessive and boomy, what should I do with the vents, leave closed, open some, open all? And/or would changing the damper(s) to some other color/value help?

I'm going to ask one more question that may expose my ignorance or make some of you highly technically trained audio guys cringe, so don't slam me too hard....but, if wanted to use two of these quad drivers on each side, being identical driver setups each with their own built in crossover, other than a lower impedance, would there be any realized audio benefit to doing this? Would it sound the same, or better or worse?

Oh, one more question...and this may come back to the vent comments above...during the build and without the face plate installed (basically open shell), I know the shells should seal in the ear canal, so once wired the monitors could be listened to, I suppose just to make sure everything is working before sealing things up. But I'm going to assume that without the face plate being installed and having a completely sealed shell that the monitors won't sound right, probably be lacking bottom end?
 
Feb 8, 2022 at 10:40 AM Post #13,659 of 14,305

musmecca

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Thanks that makes a lot of sense to release it.

I've been using Dreve paraffin dipping wax, it's listed as having a processing temp of 75degC. Maybe because I'm not releasing before attempting to pull it out I'm putting too much pressure on the wax

Thanks that makes a lot of sense to release it.

I've been using Dreve paraffin dipping wax, it's listed as having a processing temp of 75degC. Maybe because I'm not releasing before attempting to pull it out I'm putting too much pressure on the wax
Make sure you release...depending on how many shells I'm making, I will put my colloid back into the plastic form before pouring resin, as i don't want to rip my colloid pulling multiple shells out. Last, wax does make a difference...I use the rite dent as it is very flexible and doesn't flake...
 

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Feb 8, 2022 at 10:05 PM Post #13,660 of 14,305

swtnate

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I have a couple of questions about the Knowles GV-32830 quad driver. I'm a bass player, so my primary use would be stage monitor as opposed to high fidelity. I've read where the 32830 has a good mid/vocal range and the bass isn't terribly strong, and I assume this would be for the basic damper setup of White 680 on the tweeter and Brown 1000 on the lows. I also see that the quad driver has four back vents with removable seals... 1 tape and 2 screws.

So for a build using only these drivers but wanting a more full bass sound (being a bass guitar player) but not excessive and boomy, what should I do with the vents, leave closed, open some, open all? And/or would changing the damper(s) to some other color/value help?

I'm going to ask one more question that may expose my ignorance or make some of you highly technically trained audio guys cringe, so don't slam me too hard....but, if wanted to use two of these quad drivers on each side, being identical driver setups each with their own built in crossover, other than a lower impedance, would there be any realized audio benefit to doing this? Would it sound the same, or better or worse?

Oh, one more question...and this may come back to the vent comments above...during the build and without the face plate installed (basically open shell), I know the shells should seal in the ear canal, so once wired the monitors could be listened to, I suppose just to make sure everything is working before sealing things up. But I'm going to assume that without the face plate being installed and having a completely sealed shell that the monitors won't sound right, probably be lacking bottom end?
Installing 2 GV’s per side would have no frequency response benefit. However, it will increase your headroom and allow for the drivers to be pushed harder without distorting. GV has a great bass response registering down to 20Hz. It leans darker in tonality. So, if high end extension is important to you, you may want to look for another configuration.
 
Feb 9, 2022 at 12:16 PM Post #13,664 of 14,305

swtnate

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I use the brand from lightning enterprises....doesn't shrink, very tough, and doesn't turn dirty brown with re-use.
Also, Krystalloid is made by nobillum. Lightning simply cuts it up and sells it in small quantities. Krystalloid WILL amber. Thats what comes with water evaporation. If you just add water back to it OR add propylene glycol, it will return the clarity. Ive reused colloid over 20 times. Mist of the time cross contamination is what required you to toss the material, not repeated melting
 

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