Home-Made IEMs
Sep 21, 2021 at 4:29 AM Post #13,381 of 13,436

mattmatt

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I set the supports 10mm hanging the shell on the build-plate. Is that too high ?

I used the software that come with the 3D printer, Nova 3D maker. I did compare it with Chitubox v1.9. Chitubox is faster by 50%. but one thing is Chitubox has a lot of option it needs to config. Do I need to config it or just use the default setting is ok ?
You mean you lift your shell 10mm from base? that's way too high in my opinion. I lift mine at 3mm. I think most of those parameters are well built to be configured and it helps with the print.

Can you show us how you layout your shells in your software?
 
Sep 21, 2021 at 11:08 AM Post #13,383 of 13,436

dhruvmeena96

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Hello everyone.
I learned a lot from this forum and made an IEM.
I am grateful to everyone who shared a lot of knowledge.

I'm not good at English, so I use google translate. I'm sorry if there is strange English.

I did a lot of experiments, tests, measurements and auditions to make an IEM.
The model version of the IEM is 12, and I'm finally proud of the IEM I like.

I made it as follows.

1) Create impressions.
2) 3D scan with iphone (Trnio).
3) Mold the 3D model with meshmixer.
4) Create a part to attach the face plate with FUSION 360 and convert it to STL.
5) Synthesize the impressions model and the face plate model with meshmixer.
6) Design the sound path part with FUSION 360 and subtract it from the external model.
7) Design the face plate with FUSION 360.
8) Print the model with a 3D printer (ELEGOO MARS 2 Pro).
9) Lacquer the printed material.
10) Adjust the network and damper while incorporating the unit and performing measurement (REW).
11) Make a face plate, cover the IEM and it's done!

model: IEM-012 is 10BA. All units are from langzhisheng (AliExpress).

EJ-30029 x 1 (≒ CI-22955 x 2) + Red Dumper (2200 ohm)
4.7uF + FWEK-31785 x 1 (≒ DWFK-31785 x 2) + Brown dumper (1000ohm) x 2
0.68uF + FWEK-31718 x 1 (≒ SWFK-31736 x 2)

I am using Rubycon PMLCAP for the capacitor. SMD type small film capacitor.
The sound is very clear. I have the illusion that my ears have improved. The treble (6kHz and above) is weak in the frequency response measurement, but it doesn't hurt because of that. I like the KZ ZAX and ZAS sounds, but the IEM-012 sounds better than them.
Since the impedance is low (10 ohm), a high-performance amplifier is required. A small amount of electrical noise becomes a sound. Also, the output impedance of the amplifier must be low enough. I am using the voltage follower circuit of THS4631.

The face plate can be replaced. I made different designs of faceplates using various techniques. I can exchange it depending on the mood of the day.

I have done a lot of experiments so I have gained experience and knowledge. I would like to share that experience with you.

s_IMG_8279.jpg
Sunburst!
s_IMG_8470.jpg
The Metal
s_IMG_8581.jpg
Aurora
s_IMG_8583.jpg
Racing
s_IEM-012.jpg
IEM-012 Frequency characteristic
s_IEM-012_imp.jpg
IEM-012 Impedance characteristics
s_iem_012BA v9.jpg
IEM-012 Sound path design
s_IMG_8573.jpg
Inside IEM-012. I use a kneaded eraser.
s_IMG_8587.jpg
Various IEMs(1DD+2BA,1DD+7BA,8BA,6BA etc...)
s_IMG_8585.jpg
Replaceable face plate
s_IMG_8588.jpg
Jigs and microphones for testing.
Send me impedance data and Frequency data and i will gib u a magic circuit

Project looks dope anyways
 
Sep 21, 2021 at 11:09 AM Post #13,384 of 13,436

dhruvmeena96

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Is using a Sonion 38DJ007Mi/9a for a woofer, Knowles ED-29689 for the mids, and a SWFK-31736 for the tweeter a good idea?
Any advice/feedback will be greatly appreciated.
12mm tube
Add 10ohms to ED
And put a white damper in center

And tune other driver according to that ED(around that ED)
 
Sep 21, 2021 at 11:43 AM Post #13,385 of 13,436

discus123

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Snap3.png


Snap2.png

Here is the 3D printer layouts and settings
 
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Sep 21, 2021 at 12:06 PM Post #13,386 of 13,436

Aldo40

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I do not understand why you stay on 0.03mm resolution. 0.05 is ample, you waste time for nothing. same if you have anti aliasing options there too, disabled them, it’s useless here To calculate the number of base layer there is a ruler, one layer per cm of shell height . Example if the height of your iem + support is 4 cm high then put 4 layers of base, it is for the resistance of detachment throughout the process.
Novamaker has incorrect configuration profiles this is the only fault of the Bene4 , I advise you to fire it and put lychee instead or chitubox
 
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Sep 21, 2021 at 1:42 PM Post #13,388 of 13,436

discus123

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I do not understand why you stay on 0.03mm resolution. 0.05 is ample, you waste time for nothing. same if you have anti aliasing options there too, disabled them, it’s useless here To calculate the number of base layer there is a ruler, one layer per cm of shell height . Example if the height of your iem + support is 4 cm high then put 4 layers of base, it is for the resistance of detachment throughout the process.
1632241608743.jpeg


The come out of the shell is very good, no more that extra layer of cured resin inside the shell. It is smoother and more finer than previous printing. Thanks Aldo40, your way of putting the shell is the best and I have no need to make an additional hole to drainage away the resin. I can't imagine different way of putting the shell would have so big different. Alright, in the next print, I'll change the layer height to 0.05mm to see if any improvement on shorten the printing time.
 
Sep 22, 2021 at 12:43 AM Post #13,392 of 13,436

swtnate

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ok, I'll try it tomorrow. thanks mattmatt
Also, if you’re using an LCD/ Mono printer, those long exposure times cause undue heat exposure to the LCD screen. Depending on the printer, which im not familiar with the one you are using, the fan will not adequately cool it down. The overal idea is to get your model off the printer with the least amount of exposure time, using the least amount of resin, and not causing excessive heat on the components. One pair of universals with face plates will print out in 3 hours. Thats using black resin from eSun and an old Photon S.
 
Sep 22, 2021 at 7:38 AM Post #13,395 of 13,436

swtnate

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Someone in here blew my mind with a picture of the new Knowles dual driver. It had what looked like an ED29689 with a capacitor soldered to the center tap and to the positive. Is this how I have been supposed to wire this type drivers? (ie. 2389, 2389D, etc.) If so, I've got a WHOLE lot of measuring to do.:nerd:
 

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