[killaHz]

I’m a ham-fisted oaf, and I’m wondering what people do to immobilize these tiny litz wires against the various driver terminals and MMCX/2-pin plug connectors while soldering them together. The various third-hand tools I’ve tried have these big spring clips and ungainly arms that make fine-grained positioning of parts basically impossible.

EDIT: And while we’re at it, what kind of soldering station should I buy? I may just do the Hakko 888, which seems very highly regarded, but if people know what else is worth checking out, please let me know.

 

[Bassiklee]

Blue tack is your friend. As for a station, mine is a cheapie. It works, for now

 

[Farquarl]

I’m a ham-fisted oaf, and I’m wondering what people do to immobilize these tiny litz wires against the various driver terminals and MMCX/2-pin plug connectors while soldering them together. The various third-hand tools I’ve tried have these big spring clips and ungainly arms that make fine-grained positioning of parts basically impossible.

EDIT: And while we’re at it, what kind of soldering station should I buy? I may just do the Hakko 888, which seems very highly regarded, but if people know what else is worth checking out, please let me know.

Hey,
Blue tack like said is really awesome. But I found to have a nice small precision vice helps even better. Considering the soldering station I can highly recommend the ts12000a from quick. It's around the same price but is for precision soldering and has 8s from 20-350C° heating time.

 

[mattmatt]

I’m a ham-fisted oaf, and I’m wondering what people do to immobilize these tiny litz wires against the various driver terminals and MMCX/2-pin plug connectors while soldering them together. The various third-hand tools I’ve tried have these big spring clips and ungainly arms that make fine-grained positioning of parts basically impossible.

EDIT: And while we’re at it, what kind of soldering station should I buy? I may just do the Hakko 888, which seems very highly regarded, but if people know what else is worth checking out, please let me know.

Blutak is one of the easiest way to go. For station, I use TS100 and never looked back.

 

[Farquarl]

Blutak is one of the easiest way to go. For station, I use TS100 and never looked back.

Oh yeah the TS100 is really good. I would say any soldering iron/station with changable tips with intergrated heater cartrdiges and thermocouples are a big plus.

 

[LeaveMasonAlone]

Hello everyone, I'm new here but I've been digging through this thread for a couple weeks now. I'm planning a driver setup using a KZ shell, I've decided on a Sonion 38D1XJ (Bass/sub bass is very important to me, and I don't do music production so I don't need a "reference" type signature), what driver/drivers should I pair it and any tips on zobel/no zobel, filters/no filters, tubing diameter/length, anything? Any input is appreciated greatly, this is my first IEM and the only experience I have is KZ's ZST (the shell donor) and my current daily driver is the ZSX. Thanks

 

[Bassiklee]

There's 752 pages of various ideas. Not trying to be flip. You'll find tons of ideas. Me, with that LF driver, I might start with a TWFK for mids and highs, with appropriate filtering and dampers, and see.

 

[LeaveMasonAlone]

I was thinking probably TWFK, but I figured I'd ask for recommendations first. I forgot to mention that in the last post, I was at work (don't tell). I'm using the KZ shell to play around with drivers and filtering and such before I dive into making my own shells, I'll probably try a couple different drivers before I settle anyhow. Anything should be better than a "10mm" DD and 5x 30095s

 

[LeaveMasonAlone]

What's the difference between TWFK-30017 and TWFK-31082? Impedance?

 

[Davezvg]

.

 

[Davezvg]

I'll have to get some clear Fotoplast (I think red is a bit dark to try coloring it more)

Today was great, I managed to complete a set of IEM's. I made new shells from new masters (deeper canal part) & you can see the Masters in the gelatin in the first few pictures then I ripped the gelatin apart after UV curing. The last few pictures show how I made a cap - I rolled out a long bead of wax (Mini Babybel cheese wrapping wax :rolleyes then places the IEM shell down on foil and pressed the wax bead all the way around the shell. Lifted up the shell and filled the form with Fotoplast and then zapped it. The cap came off the foil and perfectly and then you can just pull the wax off. Soon much easier then trying to cut a sliver off the shell IMO.

Pic 1
Pic 2














Final Product first try (I am no pro but the $12 RAB driver sounds as good as any sub $100 earbud I have tried - is that just me?)

¿What are you using for the color with fotoplast?

 

[mattmatt]

¿What are you using for the color with fotoplast?

Many people use liquid pigments from Resin Obsession.

I use something local in my country from a composite materials company.

 

[Davezvg]

Many people use liquid pigments from Resin Obsession.

I use something local in my country from a composite materials company.

Ok Many thanks

 

[Davezvg]

A view of my latest projects.....

The smoky iem's are a Westone 3 re-shell with an added Knowles CI-22955 with a 50ohn resistor. Green dampers on the tweeter and red on the CI driver. Sounds great with a more equal mid-tone roar.

The blue shells are going to house a 6 driver configuration with CI x 2 a HODVETEC and a TWFK with a 3 way crossover. I haven't tested this setup yet but have drivers coming in this week.

¿are they made with fotoplast?

 

[mattmatt]

¿are they made with fotoplast?

They are.