[tsito]

I bought a few China clone drivers, my suggestion is just go for the real deal knowles. These Chinese drivers trying replicate the original model and modifications. But very often they compromise on last 10-20% of the quality.


I bought bellsing and knowles ED29689. Bellsing sound flatter, but you still need to use orange filter to get the low frequency. The bright mid of knowles is lacking in bellsing. It turns out that bellsing is neither here nor there.


I also bought knowles RAB 32257, bellsing 32257 and the seller you mention single driver 32257 and dual driver 32257. Bellsing’s sound stage is narrower and messier, and the high has more roll off. The Taobao single 32257 is way flatter, smoother, I haven’t fully try it out yet because I spend my time on next 2 drivers. The Taobao dual driver is very bassy but the high is very roll off even without any filters. It has a lot of dip after 4kHz, male vocal very forward, female is laid back, some electric guitar is loud, and some very high frequency is roll off. Quite a messy replica.

And it bring back the knowles 32257. The bass is very punchy and well control. The mid is forward and high is very bright, I used grey filter to control the sibilant a bit. There’s minimum or no roll off on the high. I wouldn’t want to use white filter as it might make the bass too overpowering. Not that I didn’t remove the vent filter yet, and the bass is already very strong.


End of the day, just get the real knowles Drivers. You won’t regret it. The only time I’ll suggest to get a China clone driver is when you really very unfamiliar with diy iem. Personally I destroyed 1 or 2 pairs of drivers. Now I feel more confident in making my own iem, that’s why I changed to use knowles drivers.

thank you.

I just start making DIY iem, I think maybe imma try them before going to knowles

 

[Amberlamps]

My main problem is the excess resin outside the shell for attaching the female mmcx. I alway have a lump around the mmcx so i have to sand it and it's really hard to avoid the mmcx when sanding around it.

I used super glue to glue my shells back, what I like about the glue was it was gorilla super glue that could either be used as a single drop glue dispenser or, if you unscrewed the cap, there was a little brush on the inside of the cap and it’s much much easier and more precise to use than normal drop glue dispensers.

This is just for normal iem’s not home made resin ones, but I thought it would fit in this thread incase anyone had their shells come apart and were looking in here for help.

I know this might not come in handy for yourself, but for normal iem’s this brush applicator works much better than a drop of glue.

 

[AudiophileInTheMaking]

Besides MMCX and 2 pin connectors, what other options are there for IEMs? I am looking for an 8 pin connector. Any thoughts?

 

[IvanNOON]

Besides MMCX and 2 pin connectors, what other options are there for IEMs? I am looking for an 8 pin connector. Any thoughts?

What do you need 8 pins for?

Other options are Jerry Harvey's 4-pin, linum's T2 , this and some other 2-pin variant that I can't find atm.
You can even use USB C if you want

 

[AudiophileInTheMaking]

What do you need 8 pins for?

Other options are Jerry Harvey's 4-pin, linum's T2 , this and some other 2-pin variant that I can't find atm.
You can even use USB C if you want

I am wanting to experiment with 4BAs in each IEM that are driven on independent channels by an 8 channel DAC. This will allow me to do equalization, crossover, delay compensation et. digitally in AU LABS rather than dealing with RC circuitry and maybe even without dampers.

Using a 711 style coupler, I can tune each channel individually and use REW with VITUIXCAD to solve the correct equalization per BA/channel.

Taking active IEM crossover to the next level lol.

I think I am going with 8pin mini usb for the IEM side and 19pin HDMI for the dac side of the cable.
Am I correct in thinking I should avoid a common 'ground' in this experiment? (8 leads per IEM vs 5)

 

[Slater]

I am wanting to experiment with 4BAs in each IEM that are driven on independent channels by an 8 channel DAC. This will allow me to do equalization, crossover, delay compensation et. digitally in AU LABS rather than dealing with RC circuitry and maybe even without dampers.

Using a 711 style coupler, I can tune each channel individually and use REW with VITUIXCAD to solve the correct equalization per BA/channel.

Taking active IEM crossover to the next level lol.

I think I am going with 8pin mini usb for the IEM side and 19pin HDMI for the dac side of the cable.
Am I correct in thinking I should avoid a common 'ground' in this experiment? (8 leads per IEM vs 5)

If it's just for experimentation and testing purposes, you could use RJ45 cables and jacks.

 

[AudiophileInTheMaking]

If it's just for experimentation and testing purposes, you could use RJ45 cables and jacks.

Yeah, I considered that, but they are so bulky. The jack is 3/4 the size of an IEM.

 

[Slater]

Yeah, I considered that, but they are so bulky. The jack is 3/4 the size of an IEM.

I was just thinking because they are cheap, plentiful, thick enough conductor, and easy to wire up. It would be good for prototyping, and then once you have your final design switch to something more compact.

Another option would be micro JST plugs. Still cheap, very easy to work with, snd much more compact than RJ45.

5pcs Micro JST 2.0 PH 8-Pin Connector plug with Wires Cables 300MM:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E3MGTWI/ref

 

[AudiophileInTheMaking]

I was just thinking because they are cheap, plentiful, thick enough conductor, and easy to wire up. It would be good for prototyping, and then once you have your final design switch to something more compact.

Another option would be micro JST plugs. Still cheap, very easy to work with, snd much more compact than RJ45.

5pcs Micro JST 2.0 PH 8-Pin Connector plug with Wires Cables 300MM:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E3MGTWI/ref

I like those. They have a small pitch but arent overly fragile. Some of the connectors I found were only rated for 10 mating cycles. Granted they were for board to board applications, but nothing else is of similar size.

 

[Slater]

I like those. They have a small pitch but arent overly fragile. Some of the connectors I found were only rated for 10 mating cycles. Granted they were for board to board applications, but nothing else is of similar size.

I would rate micro JST at a lot more than 10 cycles, but it depends on how much you man handle the plugs.

The important thing to remember with JST is to pry on the plastic plug, not pull by the cable.

If you suspect you will be plugging and unplugging them a lot, you can also reduce wear by using an xacto knife and trimming off the little raised strip that ‘locks’ them in place.

2 more 8-pin options:

1. A female ribbon cable. Like the old IDE disk drives. You can find them in any size, including an 8-pin configuration (for serial stuff for example). Then in the IEM side you would just mount the row of male header pins (which you usually snap off how much you need before soldering them). A 4x2 row of header pins would be fairly light and compact. And that would have a very robust insertion cycle rating (in the thousands).

2. Apple lightning, which you would have to custom wire up to access all pins individually. But you can get the DIY female and male cable ends from the usual places - Aliexpress, eBay, Amazon, etc.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Also: I did find this store here that sells them (along with a bunch of other really cool DIY parts):
https://greensense.aliexpress.com/store/323026?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.398a2fa5VmpSUX
But, I HATE shopping at AliExpress because it takes forever for your order to arrive, -IF- it even does arrive.

That said; I may have no other choice, so the next question is:
Has anyone here ever had any experience with the above seller (Chitty's Store) on AliExpress?

Thanks!

Chitty's store is good

but in USA you can go to Mousers or https://earphonediylabs.com/ for dynamic drivers

later has XWB dynamic driver which is way more amazing than any Bio diaphragm if tuned properly

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Hello again! I have been trying to finish up the electronical notch-filter and it has worked pretty well! My problem, however, is that the high frequencies gets affected aswell.
Here is a graph of the headphones before and after the use of the filter:



The changes from around 4-5kHz all the way to around 13kHz is quite alot.
I used a notch-filter calculator and the components I used was a polyester capacitor at 4.7uF along with an inductor of 560uH. The sound is good, but I wouldn't mind keeping more of the high frequencies to be able to tame them further with a screenfilter if needed.

I used this calculator: http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/RLCBesample.htm

So, my question is this: Is there any other way of making this kind of a notch-filter without affecting the high-frequencies? Or can I modify the circuit to preserve it better?
I tried connecting the components in parallel, but it didn't do much difference at all (it only cut it 4-5db).

Thank you very much!

/Anders

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/diy-universal-iem-from-er4s-to-f111-and-beyond.718262/

this will help you in treble region

do this mod, it will start raising the damping you did, but not that substantially

 

[dhruvmeena96]

What is this tornado equalizer tube? If you don't mind me asking. I don't believe I've heard of that but it sounds very interesting for low end.

http://earphonia.com/interviews/interview-makoto-yamagishi-ocharaku-corporation/

all of his tech

i m sorry for late reply

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Hi Limoster and everyone, I'm a newbie as well and I just completed my first diem project, (in a very improvised fashion tho) which is quite similar to what you are planning. I can't really comment on your setup due to my inexperience, but here is my result:

Spoiler: Drivers configuration

The black tubing is 0.6mm bell wire sleeve which act as an acoustic low pass, the grey ones are 1 1.5 and 2mm heat shrink tube.


the tubing assembly


The housing is made with super glue coated thick card and the crossover is located at the other end of the cable.

How do you guys even manage to fit so many things in such small housings

Sound is really nice, here is a comparison with my flc8s (red clear black) and mdr 7550 as reference.
The measurements are made with an IEC 711 clone from taobao. I actually like the new diy iem more then my beloved Flc8s which I sometimes found a tad too bright and lean.


Red=diy Blue=Flc8s Grey=MDR7550

Not sure why but the SWFK is rather attenuated above 10k, I first thought the ED is cancelling it's output since I connected the SWFK in reverse polarity to avoid huge dips at 4 to 7k, but it doesn't seems to be the case as it stays the same when I disconnected the ED.

Btw speaking of taobao, you might want to buy Bellsing drivers for your first project, they are sightly cheaper but the characteristics are incredible close to Knowles counterparts.

Good luck on your project!

hmm

i think, SWFK driver is capable of 10kHz, it is just that it is placed a little away. by the way your tuning is amazing

try adding one more SWFK with bigger cap to roll off low freq as much, keep 10kHz as high point there, at same phase as old SWFK. It will add up and produce 10kHZ

because according to knowles data, diyearphone website and other diy selling website, they show that SWFK does better extension than TWFK, or add extra RAB(Non vented) driver in phase with ED with a 10uF cap., it can fill up the 4 to 8kHz area and add some 10khz.

but add damper to it according to taste as it can make your old 4Khz peak even sharper, which is bad

or try horn design, it can slightly get your 10kHz back

hmmmm, by the way, one of the best implementation of hybrid design

by the way, which 10mm DD is that

 

[dhruvmeena96]

well, i am a single driver person myself
i am thinking of making into Multi driver setup

HODVTEC-31618(extreme lows)
CI-22960(low)
ED-29689(Mids)
SWFK-31736(Highs)


@ltltmartin well this is from your hybrid design theory on page488

Exchanging the dynamic to Balanced armature with vents opened

can i get to know the tube length instead of diameter

thankyou