Home-Made IEMs
Mar 20, 2018 at 10:48 PM Post #7,366 of 15,974
Get yourself a UV LED strip that's 365nm and build yourself a curing chamber, just wrap it around the inside of a small empty paint can. With this you'll be able to cure shells in around 20-30 seconds and avoid getting foggy shells.

Here's a shell I made sometime ago using nail UV gel and curing with LED light.


LED lights help avoid yellowing although I've found that the yellowing tends to fade away after a couple of days, it doesn't totally loose the yellow tint but it gets to a point where it no longer has that ugly golden glow.

For the dampers to fit, you need a tube with a 2mm inner diameter, aside from that it's up to personal preference, I normally use 1mm inner diameter for mid/low frequencies and 2mm inner diameter for high frequencies. Soundlink at ali also have these tubes.

Wow!! awesome!

Can't find a UV LED strip that's 365nm here :frowning2: only 395-405nm, it makes much difference? I'm using a nail uv chamber like this: https://http2.mlstatic.com/cabine-e...v-D_NQ_NP_659811-MLB20652693007_032016-F.webp

By the way, what UV Gel do you use? they are completely hard when it's cured? Mine are a little bit soft, using this: http://s3.amazonaws.com/img.iluria.com/product/154030/70DFF2/450xN.jpg

Thanks!
 
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Mar 21, 2018 at 5:14 AM Post #7,367 of 15,974
I'd also want to know if 395-405nm led strips are fine because I can only find these in Aliexpress, where I usually buy from. I have found some 3W and 10W leds at 365nm buy they are more expensive than 1m of 60 395nm leds.

Wow!! awesome!

Can't find a UV LED strip that's 365nm here :frowning2: only 395-405nm, it makes much difference? I'm using a nail uv chamber like this: https://http2.mlstatic.com/cabine-e...v-D_NQ_NP_659811-MLB20652693007_032016-F.webp

By the way, what UV Gel do you use? they are completely hard when it's cured? Mine are a little bit soft, using this: http://s3.amazonaws.com/img.iluria.com/product/154030/70DFF2/450xN.jpg

Thanks!

BTW, did you really just use top coat for the entire shell?! That is only meant to be used to coat the finished product, not to make products out of it.
Search for "clear UV resin" and use that next time. But If you want high quality shells you better use Nicefit, Eager or Fotoplast brands for the resin.
 
Mar 21, 2018 at 1:24 PM Post #7,368 of 15,974
Wow!! awesome!

Can't find a UV LED strip that's 365nm here :frowning2: only 395-405nm, it makes much difference? I'm using a nail uv chamber like this: https://http2.mlstatic.com/cabine-e...v-D_NQ_NP_659811-MLB20652693007_032016-F.webp

By the way, what UV Gel do you use? they are completely hard when it's cured? Mine are a little bit soft, using this: http://s3.amazonaws.com/img.iluria.com/product/154030/70DFF2/450xN.jpg

Thanks!

I got my led strip from ali, the UV gel i used was born pretty top coat. Although you'll get far better results if you get some fotoplast. The fotoplast may be an expensive first buy but believe me, if you keep using UV nail gel then the amount you'll spend to get the results you want will steadily climb.

I spent more cash on UV gel than if I had bought some fotoplast in the first place.
 
Mar 22, 2018 at 12:46 AM Post #7,369 of 15,974
Got my hands on some GD drivers. Anyone know if they're better on mids (500hz to 2khz) or treble(2khz to 6khz)?
 
Mar 22, 2018 at 10:35 PM Post #7,370 of 15,974
I'd also want to know if 395-405nm led strips are fine because I can only find these in Aliexpress, where I usually buy from. I have found some 3W and 10W leds at 365nm buy they are more expensive than 1m of 60 395nm leds.

BTW, did you really just use top coat for the entire shell?! That is only meant to be used to coat the finished product, not to make products out of it.
Search for "clear UV resin" and use that next time. But If you want high quality shells you better use Nicefit, Eager or Fotoplast brands for the resin.

Yeah, nail top coat for the entire shell, I'm using that because Shiloh told us that he used to use too.

Didn't find any 365nm LED too :frowning2:
 
Mar 26, 2018 at 7:06 AM Post #7,375 of 15,974
Anyone here familiar with Dreve Fotosil and Klarsil-H investment materials? I've done a ton of searching but I can't seem to figure out which is better for UV curing and if the negative molds created can be stored and reused. I emailed Dreve USA and Warner Techcare a day or two ago but have not got a response. Also, which gun and mixing tips from Warner would I need to use the cartridge version of those materials?

On a side note, I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. All the work you guys have done and subsequently shared has been invaluable.
I too am curious about Fotosil and Klarsil. I'd like to make a more persistent negative mold that can be reused several times. Does anyone have experience with this?
 
Mar 26, 2018 at 12:45 PM Post #7,376 of 15,974
I too am curious about Fotosil and Klarsil. I'd like to make a more persistent negative mold that can be reused several times. Does anyone have experience with this?

I talked to Dreve directly. For UV curing applications they suggest Fotosil. Fotosil is a fully cured silicone when its all said and done. It should last past the time the user would need a new ear impression (ear dimensions change over time.) Fotosil does have a low shore value, meaning it can tear easily, but so far I've handled mine with care and haven't had any issues. I take my time and don't force the impression or shell out. If you don't have a vacuum pot you need to make sure and get the injection gun and mixing tips or bubbles will be a big problem. I ordered mine from Warner Tech-care, but the injection gun I received was made by Westone so you can probably get everything from them if you are not signed up with Warner.
 
Mar 30, 2018 at 11:33 AM Post #7,377 of 15,974
Guys! Has anyone ever customized the UE TF10?

Should vetns be closed or open on woofers? I could fill them with flux when I soldered. Or overheated with a soldering iron. One driver (half Sonion 33) sounded quieter than the other. I tried to clean the pad between the soldering pads and probably opened the vent. Now one pair of drivers (with open vents) sounds much louder than the other.

I made headphone measurements before breaking them. Now I try to repeat these measurements with open and closed vents. But they do not look like the previous ones. I'm confused =)

Also, I have to combine two drivers into one tubing (too narrow ear canal). Should I make any changes in the crossover, simplify it?
 
Mar 31, 2018 at 6:33 AM Post #7,378 of 15,974
Well

New to this thread
I will be making a custom monitor

knowles GV-32830-000 with Knowles CI-22955-000

Are these drivers good

Well....my friends have some sophisticated equipment.

I will do a tornado equaliser tube (custom tubing) to remove any peaks or dips from TWFK

CI driver will be passed from restriction tubes like shure till it gives only subbass

0Hz to 150Hz- CI driver
150Hz to 2KHz - HODVTEC dual parallel
2KHz and above - TWFK

Tornado equaliser will kill peaks without using foam resistance. This is Ocharaku tech and I think I should use it in treble driver.

Aim is to reach neutral tuning with realistic treble and no roll Off bass.
 
Apr 2, 2018 at 4:58 PM Post #7,379 of 15,974
Just received all my parts for putting together a set of universals with GVs. I've see there are vents covered with tape on each BA... What is the general consensus in terms of removal? Would it benefit the bass?

Also, any tips on the easiest way to open up a set KZ in ears? I want to reuse the shells... anything more efficient than heating up the glue to loosen the back plate?
 
Apr 11, 2018 at 11:44 AM Post #7,380 of 15,974
Further to this:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/home-made-iems.430688/page-285#post-12227679


UE are taking a rather different approach with one of their latest CIEM models:

http://pro.ultimateears.com/uelive

UE Screen_Shot_2018-04-11_at_8.20.37_AM.png
 

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