Home-Made IEMs

  1. Im1fan2nv

    The top quote was a few pages back. Addresses ED29689 and low end CI22955. I have not tried this, but you can research here and decide what you’d like to try.
     
  2. yomogi
    Please tell me how to make an opaque shell
     
  3. Im1fan2nv
    I’m finally almost done with my very 1st pair. Can you believe it, for my mother-in-law. She loves flamingos so I came up with this. No easy but I kept at it and figured out a way. I’d have to say, I’m slightly proud of my construction of a flamingo from loose Swarovski crystals. She doesn’t like the cable going over the ear, so I made it come out the bottom. Not too bad I don’t think



    1B7083AF-CF21-4F37-977C-CA23C7552D44.jpeg DCB996ED-77D4-40E4-AFBF-8A8947E6B43D.jpeg DA07072F-3319-4708-A7AB-18119A82E437.jpeg C1480555-92AE-4235-BB6D-BFC1264242A0.jpeg 376AFE2A-C4BF-4155-BE32-0E39CCB006B1.jpeg 0A7C21A7-2048-4583-9623-57B6A7CEA43E.jpeg 04AC66C0-45C2-40AE-8C6E-74B3BEADC8DC.jpeg C6252270-60C2-4A1C-BDE6-6E336CDC7521.jpeg
     
  4. uoods
    First of all thanks to everyone in this thread for such great information on this rabbit hole I just fell into. I did my own impressions and have some SLA printed shells on the way and I'm researching drivers. I've read many hundreds of pages on this thread, but is there any comprehensive comparison/list of drivers and combinations?

    I've heard the Knowles GV described as neutral and clinical, which is probably what I'm after (ER4P/S, Beyer DT880, and HD600 are my favorites for example), but I keep running across other combinations from Shiloh and others that sound interesting. Also the Andromeda reverse engineer was mentioned but not really discussed (p428?) piqued my interest.

    Right now my plan is to go with GV and play with damping per Luke's suggestions, and also maybe try with Shiloh's setup (p417). Seems the simplest for my first build, but I'm open to suggestion and wisdom from the collective brain here. :ksc75smile:
     
  5. Im1fan2nv
    I found this some time ago and it gives some insight to COTS packages and possibly stir up some ideas on what to try. My 1st were a lot of trials and ultimately I ended up with GV’s. I have Shure 215s, 535s, and 846s to compare with. I obtained at least as good as the 535s if not better. Most people go with green and red dampers but I ended up with green and brown. Brown in place of the green and green in place of the red.

    PS,
    You joined in 2003 and are just starting with your own CIEMs? That’s some thorough reading... Just kidding, if you don’t already know, this group of guys (gals?) are very helpful and I have yet to find anyone unwilling to share their knowledge.
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    .
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2017
  6. cjxj
    ---
    You can't go wrong with your original plan, including Luke's suggestions for damping. It will be an easy first build with great results and you'll enjoy listening to them. I have a set like it and it's sort of my CIEM audio "reference" point that I don't fiddle with. I like to compare it with my other builds and tuning efforts. I don't know if this makes sense AT ALL to anyone else, but sometimes after playing with a bunch of variables, I'll plug them back in to kind of bring my ears and brain back to something I know.
     
    Im1fan2nv likes this.
  7. Einencool
    I‘ve got a question about the Knowles GV.
    I‘ve build a Pair of CIEM with them, but I have the Problem, that the bass is much lower than on my Pair with GK driver.
    So I‘ve build another Pair with the GV, and opened a extra port for the bass. But the same here, the bass is much lower than the GK.
    I thought, that the bass was better, before I put the Faceplate on. Could that be the reason? Because of the Vents from the GV?

    And how do you solder the GV? There are 4 solder pads on the back. The datasheet says (when the tweeter is on left) that the lower left is „-„ and the lower right is „+“.
    The pads are altough crossed, and I don‘t understand the „Note 1“ in the Datasheet, which means:
    A positive going voltage at terminal 2 (+), relative to terminal 1 (-), causes a decrease in pressure at the sound outlet.

    Thats sounds like, when you put + to + and - to -, the pressure will be lower :triportsad:

    Can you help me? Thanks in advance
    Chris
     
  8. Bassiklee
    CC42102A-CDFB-4404-9703-4749D6F9A35C.png This is a blown up section from the PDF of the GV
     
  9. Einencool
    Hi @Bassiklee

    Thank you for your reply.
    I know that Datasheet, and what I wrote is the „Note“ in the upper right part of the Datasheet.

    I‘ve compared my two builds with the GV drivers. At the Second try I opened the extra bass port, but the FR curve shows no higher bass

    Ups, I see that I‘ve named them Knwoles :)
    The orange and green ist the normal GV
    And the lower ones are the GV with extra opened bass port...

    I don‘t know, why the green one has a lower bass, maybe my measurement was not right, I got it the last days, and it was my first try...
    C521DA64-663A-4D2E-871A-BF1A8B4DB501.jpeg
     
    Firedrops likes this.
  10. cyph3r
    Hi Einencool

    lower frequency response measurements accuracy / precision and repeatability will also depend on the volume of the cavity of your coupler. Take care that your measurment setup is reproducible and that the cavity volume is not too large.

    low frequency response will also vary with acoustic tube diameter. Try smaller tube diameters.

    Viel Erfolg.
     
    Im1fan2nv likes this.
  11. Einencool
    Danke :)

    All the Drivers have ONE 2mm inner diameter tube for High and Low together.
    And the tubing length should be also very similar .

    So should I use for the Low and the High each one own tube?
    My Ear Canals are not the biggest, so I will have to try, to get the two tubes in.

    On Monday I will go to an audiologist, to make a new pair of impressions, and then I will try to make the end of the ear canal almost straight, to insert the tubing easyier

    Greets
    Chris
     
  12. cyph3r
    Morgen Chris,
    try a slightly smaller tube diameter (maybe 1.4 -1.5 mm) as alternatice and some different lengths. If you dont get the desired frequency response, I would recommend to use separate tubes.
     
    Im1fan2nv likes this.
  13. Shilohsjustice
    Hello all, great news!! The UV topcoat needed for the retro-tutorial has arrived so I will begin putting together the material list and tools I will be using for the build. I plan on this being an all inclusive start to finish tutorial so it will certainly take sometime to properly fit together. I’m hoping to also upload some video with commentary to better understand each process at the suggestion of @Furco, so stay tuned.
     
    Furco, Firedrops, MuZo2 and 11 others like this.
  14. aussietanker
    Really looking forward to this!
     
    Shilohsjustice likes this.
  15. Einencool
    Hi Shilo,

    Could you also show, how you trim the impressions?
    I got my new impressions and trimmed them slightly to make a „acrylic master“ impression .
    Then I will try to trim them instead of the silicon impression...

    How long do you think, will your tutorial take until it is ready to post :)
    I think I willl wait until you get it done :)
     

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