Home-Made IEMs

  1. Im1fan2nv

    Wow, using hypodermic needles, now to me, that’s thinking outside the box. I will have to say that when I was trying this combination, like you, it was before I figured out how to use two size ports. Do you use 2mm until the exit them use the needle? (any pics?) Also I have since found copper tubes, but they are coated silver. However, I’m not sure what will happen long term if the silver has a scratch or a cut tube(exposing copper) will do? They als have stainless but not as small as 20G needles. This is where the needles will be a much better choice.
    As far as putting together the rigs for measuring, the one for the impedance is pretty easy to do but since low pass xovers just don’t seem to work based on calculations, I don’t find it much useful. I don’t have very expensive equipment for my FR curve but with some luck, what I have works pretty well. I’ve used it to compare my Sure SE535s and SE846s and get curves very close to what I found online for those. I’ll try to post some pics when I get some together. Thanks for the input.

    20171105_072605.jpg 20171105_072731.jpg 20171105_072716.jpg 20171105_072805.jpg 20171105_072931.jpg 20171105_073028.jpg
    I hope this link works



    It was with help from here but if I had to put my finger on 1 thing, it was getting light to the bottom. I have one of the small nail lights and what I do to accomplish this is turn the light upside down, put a piece of acrylic on top of the lights, set my mold on, place foil over entire bottom opening and cook. I used 40 seconds each way(right side up and upside down) pour out, repeat both for same times. Remove from mold, into glycerin and cook 4 min, move shell around and cook 4 more minutes all right side up, I have a small mirror under the rotating table(pics inserted later). Then place into isopropyl bath. Hope this helps.
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2017
  2. Im1fan2nv

    How about these and just cut off the plastic?

    aussietanker likes this.
  3. Spinnerauto
    Hello everyone could you tell me How to join the sound tube with BA driver?
  4. jbr1971
    I have had great success using Bondic (for many different types of applications). It is a liquid plastic that dries using uv light.

    After drying it is extremely strong and durable, so make sure you have all of your measurements/parts correct or else it will be a huge pain to take apart.

  5. Shilohsjustice

    Loctite 495 works extremely well, I will put a couple drops on wax paper and use a toothpick pick to apply around the BA nozle. It drys quick and I haven’t had any builds come apart since switching over to it.
    aussietanker and Im1fan2nv like this.
  6. Im1fan2nv
    That's the same thing I use. You practically have to rip the tube off if you want it removed. Much better than any UV cure material I've tried. They just don't hold. I bought the accelerator as well to speed up cure time.
    aussietanker likes this.
  7. tomekk
    Small leaks from my obsession:

  8. Bassiklee
    Are those soft tips on the white ones?
  9. tomekk
    Clear canals. At this point they already have hollow channels such as VE or RCM.

  10. BigBublik
  11. Furco
  12. BigBublik
    Yes, i wanna creating shells.
    I'm confused about the price. It is several times cheaper than fotoplast.
  13. Einencool
    Is it also Skin Save?
    That’s why the fotoplast or the other materials for otoplastics are so expensive.
    You should protect it with a layer of lack3 from dreve or something like that
  14. BigBublik
    Built their first IEM on the ED-29689. Used a resistor on the 20Ohm and did not use dampers in the tube. BUT! Is not enough low frequencies.

    Which driver in a couple of ED-29689 you recommend? And what a crossover is needed for this pair?

    aussietanker, alanwcruz and tomekk like this.
  15. Spinnerauto
    How to do the hole like your pics and how to create solid white shell like that.Thank you
    aussietanker likes this.

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