[kleymenov]

Hello Guys I´m here again.

I managed to do the Gelatin+glycerine negatives as described by Shilohsjustice. They have good consistency and it can be melted again to try again, in case the first try wasn´t successful. I´ve also been playing with the drivers I ordered to see how they would combine in frequency and phase, I think I got the right combination of tube lengths and polarity.

About the tubes, I went to a medical supply store and found FEEDING TUBE gauge 8FR (15 in long used for adult) and gauge 5 (35 in long used for infant). The gauge 5 fits perfect in the dirvers port and it fits inside the gauge 8 tube. The dampers fit a little tight in the gauge 8 tube, but if you stretch it out a little, they will fit with a little struggle. Each tube was about 50 cents of a dollar (8 Mexican Pesos).



I just got the EGGER UV resin last week after a loooooong international shipping time but I haven´t bought the UV nail lamp because I´m not sure what wavelenght is necessary to cure the EGGER UV. Does any of you have information if it has to be a specific wavelenght? or it can be any uv light and the only thing to look for is the curing time?

Thanks everyone!

I have made my own Egger EL1 unit

and use following instruction to work with EGGER LP/H (transparent):

1. Fill the LP/H or LP/HS material into the negative mold made of duplicating
   material (REF 40900 ff). Make sure that the negative mold is completely
   filled and bubble free.
2. Cover it with black foil (REF 53200 or REF 53100).
3. Put the filled negative mold into the UV-polymerization unit and let it
   polymerize according to the following polymerization times. Gas ow is not required if you work with the UV-polymerization unit EL 1 plus N2.

LP/H and LP/HS transparent and pink-transparent

EL1: 2 min. 30 sec. to 3 min.

ATTENTION: The mentioned polymerization times are guide values, they may vary depending on the s

1. Remove the black foil after polymerization.
2. Pour the liquid material into a container that is impervious to light.
   This material can be reused.
3. After having completely poured out the liquid material, put the negative
   mold and the blank but without the black foil into the UV-polymerization unit again. We recommend placing ITE shells in the unit with the opening facing downward. Gas ow is not required if you work with the UV-polymerization unit EL 1 plus N2.

LP/H and LP/HS transparent and pink-transparent

EL1: 1 min. to 2 min.

1. Take the blank out of the negative mold and put it into a transparent container (REF 50107) lled with LP-Cleaner (REF 31300 ff). Then put it into a UV-polymerization unit for the second polymerization.

EL1: 5 min. to 6 min.

 

[Andrumgt]

The timings are not correct.
I use a EL2 and the timimng are much lower than what they say in the manual.

 

[Lucas Taboada]

Anyone know if a dental silicone (AB Putty, 62 shore) like this: https://www.suryadental.com.br/medi...eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/6/168328000.jpg) would work as a impression material? I'm not making impressions on my own, I'm trying to duplicate them so I can practice trimming, sanding etc... without ruining my original one. The Dreve Otoform its quite pricey here and the package comes with too much material for me, so its not an option for now.

 

[tomekk]

dental silicone would work as a impression material?

I used a similar one at the beginning but...

Right, absolutely not suitable for material for ear impression! First of all, it is 2-3 times harder and secondly, it does not have a slippery layer that helps to keep the ear safe. Thirdly, it has a very short time to mix and put into the syringe. Half less than Otoform.

A standard hydrocolloid material would be too soft to withstand hard dental material tensioning, you would need to use gelatine in a strong concentration, but Dental does not have the effect of Otoform padding that is preactually liquid at the exit from the syringe. There is probably a large deformation of the base form.

The last thing I remember. Dental has a completely different consistency - it's like clay and its processing so you don't exp like with Otoform, because the dremel cuts it differently.

What's different about practicing on duplicated impressions of Otoform, previously pre-cut. I think it's worthy of attention to exp.

 

[kleymenov]

The timings are not correct.
I use a EL2 and the timimng are much lower than what they say in the manual.

The time is correct for EL1 and it is only for transparent/pink material only, another color has different polymerization time, this time I see in EGGER manual:
http://egger-labor.de/enplace/1101/pdf/en/30400a.pdf

 

[aussietanker]

I have made my own Egger EL1 unit

Do you mean that you made the UV curing unit that we see in the picture? if so, that's awesome!

Can you give some basic instructions as to how you made it and how much that cost?

Well done!

 

[Andrumgt]

The time is correct for EL1 and it is only for transparent/pink material only, another color has different polymerization time, this time I see in EGGER manual:
http://egger-labor.de/enplace/1101/pdf/en/30400a.pdf

For real?i.d like to see a pic with a shell that.s been sitting for 2.30 to 3 min nder UV.
My egger EL2 has half the power of an EL1 and at 45 secs is more than enough.

 

[kleymenov]

For real?i.d like to see a pic with a shell that.s been sitting for 2.30 to 3 min nder UV.
My egger EL2 has half the power of an EL1 and at 45 secs is more than enough.

This normal shell:


And this, if it is about 2 minutes:

 

[kleymenov]

Andrumgt, You use EGGER LP/H transparent?

 

[Andrumgt]

Andrumgt, You use EGGER LP/H transparent?

Yes, I do use lp h clear.
This is my diy el2 and the exposure times from the manual that egger provided are not good.The ET are much smaller in reality.

 

[kleymenov]

Yes, I do use lp h clear.
This is my diy el2 and the exposure times from the manual that egger provided are not good.The ET are much smaller in reality.

I can only assume that you have a different concentration of light, when I did this unit i tried to make the size as the original. By the way, I did not use blue lights at all and work only with transparent EGGER.....

 

[Andrumgt]

I can only assume that you have a different concentration of light, when I did this unit i tried to make the size as the original. By the way, I did not use blue lights at all and work only with transparent EGGER.....

I also did the exact same dimensions like the original, also used identical light bulbs, including the blue one, also using only clear.
Have fun!

 

[ForceMajeure]

There is a difference in quality of the bulbs btw.
Also UV bulbs loose UV energy outpout along the way. Although they will work and emit light they will not have the same curing capabilities as when new.

Of course there are other factors that could explain the variance in curing times.

The fact that both of you build one is super cool IMO.
Kudos to both of you.

 

[Andrumgt]

I used the specified osram bulbs, brand new and original.I did not make any rabat on the quality as i expected the final quality to match it.

 

[aussietanker]

A question for the guys that have either the Egger or the Dreve or any other of the professional curing chambers. Do they have a platform that rotates or is the base just a flat non moving part. And has the difference in the end result been significantly different when using the Egger or Dreve uv curing units as compared to the shells produced when using the uv nail curing light things?