[HD-5000]

It seems that I don't have drill bits that size. How do you make the hole?

 

[andrzejpw]

are we talking about the neutrik?

 

[HD-5000]

Yeah.

 

[andrzejpw]

hmmm, I just went to measure the size that I'll need to drill. It's only 1/2 and inch. . . are you sure you don't have the right bits?

 

[HD-5000]

are you sure its that small? I have a 1/2 inch and theres no way its big enough...

 

[andrzejpw]

Wow, what do I have up hte crack pipe?

Sorry, its 7/8, I think.

 

[wilsonjm]

Ok, its pretty simple...do this.

First drill a hole 3/8" to 1/2". Then take a nibbler and go around the hole making it larger. It'll look jagged and polygonal at this point, but that's ok, since the neutrik jack has a rectangular front that will cover up imperfect holes.

if you don't have a nibbler you can get one at a hardware store for probably $10-$20. you will find it very useful. You can use it not only to cut out holes in the chassis but also to cut PC boards

 

[aeberbach]

Number 3 solution - biggest drill bit followed by much filing.

Number 2 solution - nibbler, followed by file.

Number 1 solution: Greenlee punch, around $70 from markertek.com. Drill a hole for the bolt, tighten it up and the right-shaped hole just pops out!

Don't ever drill panels while they're behing held in your hand, especially in aluminium. I did this once, the drill bit snagged and it turned into a rotating knife that opened up the palm of my left hand.

 

[wilsonjm]

aeberbach,


that has happened to me but only when i use drill bits >3/8"...i don't know where a vise is to clamp the metal panel down, but if the drill bit is <3/8" usually I can hold it down with my hand, and then just nibble or file out the hole.

 

[JMT]

I ordered a Greenlee punch last week, should be here today. I have been using my Dremel with the grinder attachment to enlarge the hole after drilling with the 1/2" bit. That worked fine but I was going through grinding tips like you wouldn't believe.

 

[tangent]

Quote:

Sorry, its 7/8, I think.

The datasheet says 24mm. I use a 15/16" Greenlee punch which comes out to 23.8mm -- close enough. I've only used my punch once, but it worked then, without any extra grinding to enlarge the hole.

A panel punch is definitely the right way to go unless you have infinite patience. $40-50 for the punch looks like peanuts when you have to do more than one of these holes. (If Markertek is charging $70, go over to Allied Electronics instead!)

Also, the nibbler and grinding methods have a big problem: the faceplate on the Neutrik jack hangs over the hole by only 1mm on either side. If the hole is ever so slightly too big, the faceplate won't cover the hole completely. With a punch, you don't have to worry about this at all.

Quote:

the drill bit snagged and it turned into a rotating knife that opened up the palm of my left hand.

You, too, huh?

Shall we start the Bad Example Club?

 

[eric343]

Newark has the Greenlee for $44, that's where I got mine (before I turned JMT and Tangent on to them

</shameless brag>)

I LOVE mine. You NEED one. GET ONE!!!

(it also helps to have a rivet tool to secure the jack to the panel, the hole is just slightly too large, so the jack will fall out if it's not secured)

 

[wilsonjm]

eric,

the neutrik jack shouldn't fall out if you secure it with screws in the screw holes that is has.


BTW, does anyone have the part # for the Greenlee punch that's recommended?

 

[JMT]

Newark part #: 50B3754

Thanks eric343

 

[eric343]

wilson: That's what I recommended the rivet tool for, so you can put rivets through those holes instead of screws. Rivets don't come loose...

[seriously, though, with Hammond cases I was having a lot of trouble mounting battery holders to the case; the screws were too long and came loose too easily. A week later I found two rivet tools and supply of two rivet sizes (one which fits perfectly) in a drawer... Thanks grandpa!

)