HiFiMan Susvara
Sep 30, 2020 at 8:59 PM Post #4,786 of 11,975

makan

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I am planning to make my own diy cable with my friend whom has experienced and is a small diy cable maker. He have an idea to make the cable material from speaker cable Kimber Kable as he thinks the Susvara is most of the time used with high power amp or speaker amp so it should be good compatibility. What do you guys think? Would this material suit the Susvara.
I had the Kimber axios copper headphone cable and it was certainly aesthetically a nice cable. Sound wise, I am not a cable guy and so did not notice much difference, maybe a tighter bass.
 
Oct 1, 2020 at 6:53 AM Post #4,787 of 11,975

beemerphile

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Not so sure that "tighter bass" is a possible outcome from wires. Tight (or loose) bass is mostly an attribute of the speaker. Loose bass is most likely to happen with large cones having high inertia (mass), long excursion, and low impedance. These attributes are why you don't hear discussions of tight or loose treble or mid-range. Large sub-woofers are a prime candidate. Any planar speaker, and a headphone planar in particular, will have the opposite attributes: low inertia, short excursion, and high impedance. You can't tighten bass that isn't loose. If bass is "loose", because of the speaker, about the only thing that will tighten it significantly is to switch to an amplifier with a higher damping factor to control the cone movement. Higher damping would mean an amplifier with lower output impedance. If your amplifier has a damping factor of about 20 or greater and you still have loose bass, IMO you need better speakers. More amplifier damping is not necessarily better. There are a great many "musical sounding" amps with low damping factors. I tend to prefer them. They just need to be used with speakers that are well-behaved without being led around by the neck. Of course all remedies are futile if the loose bass is "as recorded". If you're listening to a recording of a guy playing a bass guitar through a stack of 18-inchers powered by a tube amp, well, get ready for loose bass.
 
Oct 1, 2020 at 8:54 AM Post #4,788 of 11,975

bagwell359

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Not so sure that "tighter bass" is a possible outcome from wires. Tight (or loose) bass is mostly an attribute of the speaker. Loose bass is most likely to happen with large cones having high inertia (mass), long excursion, and low impedance. These attributes are why you don't hear discussions of tight or loose treble or mid-range. Large sub-woofers are a prime candidate. Any planar speaker, and a headphone planar in particular, will have the opposite attributes: low inertia, short excursion, and high impedance. You can't tighten bass that isn't loose. If bass is "loose", because of the speaker, about the only thing that will tighten it significantly is to switch to an amplifier with a higher damping factor to control the cone movement. Higher damping would mean an amplifier with lower output impedance. If your amplifier has a damping factor of about 20 or greater and you still have loose bass, IMO you need better speakers. More amplifier damping is not necessarily better. There are a great many "musical sounding" amps with low damping factors. I tend to prefer them. They just need to be used with speakers that are well-behaved without being led around by the neck. Of course all remedies are futile if the loose bass is "as recorded". If you're listening to a recording of a guy playing a bass guitar through a stack of 18-inchers powered by a tube amp, well, get ready for loose bass.

With headphones there are other ways to achieve tighter bass w/ changing pads, fit or lesser fit of pads with cans, removing rear screens, use of bass control items such as dynamat, sorbothane, BlueTac, etc.

I left my tweaky cables brain back in 1977-1995 time frame going to DIY cables, Blue Jeans cables, and hung onto a few of the old 'audiophile' cables (that had lost resale value). But it came back in 2017, not from cans from Fostex, Senn, Brainwavz, Audeze, MrSpeakers - but my favorites - HFM. The 4XX, HE-5se, (400 and 560 about 6 years earlier) didn't change, but the HE5-LE, HE-500, HE6se, HEX v2 all changed radically. I blind AB'd 3 of them (too many mods on the HE-500 prior to test to get usable results. and it wasn't at all close all around, not just the bass.

I can only conclude that there is something defective about their cables in those models. Many have complained about the construction and performance of those.

But as a general rule - yes audiophiles are too easily influenced by vendors, publications, dealers, and audiophile friends. Need to test, and make choices carefully and avoid the herd as it moves from one to another "best ever" - very often the most expensive.
 
Oct 1, 2020 at 9:24 AM Post #4,789 of 11,975

beemerphile

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Loose bass is a speaker making sounds without an electrical input to do so. Lots of tuning measures can be taken to dampen bass even further than that, which is to over-damp the bass. Pads with headphones and room treatments with speakers are common methods. These measures will also dampen as-recorded "loose" bass. In doing so, the tuning would not be high fidelity to the original source, though it may be more enjoyable to the listener. In this case you are tuning to a personal sonic preference (which is fine) or correcting acoustic issues in the listening environment and not damping an errant speaker. If the goal is high fidelity, IMO this tuning is best done with test signal sweeps to confirm flat response rather than by using music until it "sounds right". Tight bass gets used to describe the psychoacoustic impression of a bass response that does not linger after the note - in other words "less boomy". Well, if "boomy" was recorded, in high fidelity "boomy" should come out. Semantics maybe, but a properly described problem is easier to solve. If the problem is acoustics in the listening environment or the frequency response of the speaker, the solution is different from a bass speaker that won't follow orders.
 
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Oct 1, 2020 at 11:51 AM Post #4,790 of 11,975

Articnoise

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Not so sure that "tighter bass" is a possible outcome from wires. Tight (or loose) bass is mostly an attribute of the speaker. Loose bass is most likely to happen with large cones having high inertia (mass), long excursion, and low impedance. These attributes are why you don't hear discussions of tight or loose treble or mid-range. Large sub-woofers are a prime candidate. Any planar speaker, and a headphone planar in particular, will have the opposite attributes: low inertia, short excursion, and high impedance. You can't tighten bass that isn't loose. If bass is "loose", because of the speaker, about the only thing that will tighten it significantly is to switch to an amplifier with a higher damping factor to control the cone movement. Higher damping would mean an amplifier with lower output impedance. If your amplifier has a damping factor of about 20 or greater and you still have loose bass, IMO you need better speakers. More amplifier damping is not necessarily better. There are a great many "musical sounding" amps with low damping factors. I tend to prefer them. They just need to be used with speakers that are well-behaved without being led around by the neck. Of course all remedies are futile if the loose bass is "as recorded". If you're listening to a recording of a guy playing a bass guitar through a stack of 18-inchers powered by a tube amp, well, get ready for loose bass.

I am sure that tighter and more articulated bass is a possible outcome with better cables, and that includes both digital and analog cables.
 
Oct 1, 2020 at 6:46 PM Post #4,792 of 11,975

Ciggavelli

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I received my WA33 Elite with JPS wiring on Tuesday. I listened to it with my Susvaras all day today. I have never heard the Susvaras sound so good. They scaled up nicely. The soundstage is more outside your head and has more depth.

I listen to a lot of metal and I played the latest Blood Incantation album “Human History” (an amazing death metal album). Prior to the WA33 Elite, some songs sounded muddy. I thought it was just how the album was recorded. Turns out that wasn’t the case. Those passages were just really low and really fast.

The Susvaras out of the wa33 elite w/ JPS wiring is perfect for metal. I’m really impressed. I’ll try some other genres later and report back.
 
Oct 1, 2020 at 8:56 PM Post #4,794 of 11,975

ufospls2

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I've got a dark green cable, I like how it looks with the brown wood : )

i2YhJFo.jpg
 
Oct 1, 2020 at 11:46 PM Post #4,795 of 11,975

Dipesh

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I received my WA33 Elite with JPS wiring on Tuesday. I listened to it with my Susvaras all day today. I have never heard the Susvaras sound so good. They scaled up nicely. The soundstage is more outside your head and has more depth.

I listen to a lot of metal and I played the latest Blood Incantation album “Human History” (an amazing death metal album). Prior to the WA33 Elite, some songs sounded muddy. I thought it was just how the album was recorded. Turns out that wasn’t the case. Those passages were just really low and really fast.

The Susvaras out of the wa33 elite w/ JPS wiring is perfect for metal. I’m really impressed. I’ll try some other genres later and report back.
Awesome...man..I listen about 6 hours daily with Nautilus and susvara.
 
Oct 1, 2020 at 11:49 PM Post #4,796 of 11,975

Green Golden Retriver

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I've got a dark green cable, I like how it looks with the brown wood : )

i2YhJFo.jpg
Your cable looks very nice. Dark Green is also one of my favorites color.

Do you think gold would look nice on the susvara as well?
 

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Oct 2, 2020 at 3:13 AM Post #4,797 of 11,975

MatW

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I received my WA33 Elite with JPS wiring on Tuesday. I listened to it with my Susvaras all day today. I have never heard the Susvaras sound so good. They scaled up nicely. The soundstage is more outside your head and has more depth.

I listen to a lot of metal and I played the latest Blood Incantation album “Human History” (an amazing death metal album). Prior to the WA33 Elite, some songs sounded muddy. I thought it was just how the album was recorded. Turns out that wasn’t the case. Those passages were just really low and really fast.

The Susvaras out of the wa33 elite w/ JPS wiring is perfect for metal. I’m really impressed. I’ll try some other genres later and report back.
Nice! Congrats with the new kit.
(I still think that the recording of that album could be better... Listen to it and then put the new Anaal Nathrakh album on for the contrast.. the production of that album is stellar.)
 
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Oct 2, 2020 at 3:21 AM Post #4,798 of 11,975

Muataz

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I received my WA33 Elite with JPS wiring on Tuesday. I listened to it with my Susvaras all day today. I have never heard the Susvaras sound so good. They scaled up nicely. The soundstage is more outside your head and has more depth.

I listen to a lot of metal and I played the latest Blood Incantation album “Human History” (an amazing death metal album). Prior to the WA33 Elite, some songs sounded muddy. I thought it was just how the album was recorded. Turns out that wasn’t the case. Those passages were just really low and really fast.

The Susvaras out of the wa33 elite w/ JPS wiring is perfect for metal. I’m really impressed. I’ll try some other genres later and report back.
What amplifiers did you own before WA33
 
Oct 2, 2020 at 8:15 AM Post #4,800 of 11,975

dstubked

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I see many folks here discussing how the Susvara needs crazy good amplication. I took a different route and optimized everything before the DAC. I now have a uptone etherregen into a SOTM ultra neo feeding a SOTM txusb ultra into a Mutec mc3+ usb before going into the Mscaler. All the devices before going into the Mscaler is being clocked by a Mutec Ref10. It is one of the biggest most dramatic change in all my years of audio. It cost me alot but it was worth the effort and definitely had a much more profound effect than any amplication I threw at the Susvara.
 

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