[Happy Camper]

That is not my pic, it was found in this thread as an example of the mods.

 

[rcstevensonaz]

I am curious if people have suggestion on which is likely to be the best amplifier for the HE6SEv2:

• Monolith THX 887 (XLR4)
• Emotiva Mini-A100 (Speaker Terminal -- older version with no headphone jack)
• NAD 370 (Speaker Terminal)

Or, is the hype about how hard these are to drive overblown, and all of the above effectively powerful enough?

 

[SilverEars]

I am curious if people have suggestion on which is likely to be the best amplifier for the HE6SEv2:

• Monolith THX 887 (XLR4)
• Emotiva Mini-A100 (Speaker Terminal -- older version with no headphone jack)
• NAD 370 (Speaker Terminal)

Or, is the hype about how hard these are to drive overblown, and all of the above effectively powerful enough?

Go for the basX if you can and connect directly to the headphone jack with the jumpers in place. 83dB/mW isn't overblown hype. See if you can find headphone that's that hard to drive.

 

[rcstevensonaz]

Go for the basX if you can and connect directly to the headphone jack with the jumpers in place. 83dB/mW isn't overblown hype. See if you can find headphone that's that hard to drive.

I already own the Mini-A100 (actually, two of them). Is there any difference between the jumpered TRS jack on the BasX compared with running off the speaker jacks on the Mini-A100?

 

[SilverEars]

I already own the Mini-A100 (actually, two of them). Is there any difference between the jumpered TRS jack on the BasX compared with running off the speaker jacks on the Mini-A100?

I think shortest direct path always best over another tap connector/adapter/cable. If you have A100 mini, then get a tap cable. Also, I found when the jumpers are not there with the basX, with the attenuation (probably from the resistors), the sound isn't as clean. I tried jumpers off with the HD800S since the power is too much with the jumpers. If Emotiva makes a less power version than the BasX, I would drive the HD800S out of it. It actually improves the imaging of the HD800S (never heard 800S image like that and didn't think possible), but gain is too much since HD800S is too sensitive for it. So the volume knob has channel imbalance at low level. I was quite surprised of it's transient response with speaker power.

 

[rcstevensonaz]

I think shortest direct path always best over another tap connector/adapter/cable. If you have A100 mini, then get a tap cable. Also, I found when the jumpers are not there with the basX, with the attenuation (probably from the resistors), the sound isn't as clean. I tried jumpers off with the HD800S since the power is too much with the jumpers. If Emotiva makes a less power version than the BasX, I would drive the HD800S out of it. It actually improves the imaging of the HD800S (never heard 800S image like that and didn't think possible), but gain is too much since HD800S is too sensitive for it. So the volume knob has channel imbalance at low level. I was quite surprised of it's transient response with speaker power.

Thanks.

Off topic of HE6SEv2... regarding your HD800S — what if you put a passive (potentially stepped) attenuator on the RCA input signal going into the BasX? That would lower the presented signal strength, allowing you to then take advantage of the gain and available power on the BasX while controlling the volume "higher up" on the volume knob to avoid the channel imbalance? For example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRLV7XG/ Essentially gain staging between the passive volume and the active BasX amp.

 

[billqs]

Finally, something I can emphasize with. I didn't like the sound with the grill off. The imaging took a dive and it felt like there needs to be some level of sound containment or the sound seems to just jump all over the place with the grill off.

I read everybody stating that grill off is an improvement, but I didn't see it that way.

For sure, not everyone prefers having the grills removed. After all, one would figure there was a reason to have to have the screen and mesh there. In this case, I feel the phones have a more dynamic sound without the grills. But that's just me. It makes complete sense that others would prefer it stock. I think just using them so they sound the best to you is the way to go.

 

[SilverEars]

For sure, not everyone prefers having the grills removed. After all, one would figure there was a reason to have to have the screen and mesh there. In this case, I feel the phones have a more dynamic sound without the grills. But that's just me. It makes complete sense that others would prefer it stock. I think just using them so they sound the best to you is the way to go.

I assumed that the grill is for protection, but after trying with grill off I realize it's for more than protection. It maybe for causing some reverb like creating a room environment which sounds more natural to me for sound images to appear to have distinct locations or sound definitions.

I've tried pads, amps, grill off and these all effect the imaging to some degree. You habe to get the most optimal combination to get what HE6 does best, the great imaging.

You won't appreciate imaging with pop tracks, but jazz where the recordings were raw with various mixing of instruments recorded which test how well a headphone images.

 

[SilverEars]

Thanks.

Off topic of HE6SEv2... regarding your HD800S — what if you put a passive (potentially stepped) attenuator on the RCA input signal going into the BasX? That would lower the presented signal strength, allowing you to then take advantage of the gain and available power on the BasX while controlling the volume "higher up" on the volume knob to avoid the channel imbalance? For example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRLV7XG/ Essentially gain staging between the passive volume and the active BasX amp.

So, I recently made some posts on nobsound passive attenuators and something sounding off about them, and Schiit Saga being an improvement over it. Also, passive attenuators depending heavily on cable capacitance due to attenuator output impedance and amp input impedance reducing damping factor. A volume control with a buffer is the best sure way to keep the signal intact. I still haven't run into a passive attenuator that best keeps the signal from the DAC intact.

 

[Oregonian]

I am curious if people have suggestion on which is likely to be the best amplifier for the HE6SEv2:

• Monolith THX 887 (XLR4)
• Emotiva Mini-A100 (Speaker Terminal -- older version with no headphone jack)
• NAD 370 (Speaker Terminal)

Or, is the hype about how hard these are to drive overblown, and all of the above effectively powerful enough?

Personally all I use are vintage speaker amps..............this is my flagship system, a 1978 Pioneer Spec 1 pre/Spec 2 amp system. Drive my HE-6SE's (have both V1 and V2) from the speaker taps as well as my HD800S and LCD2C and love the sound and the visceral bass. I know many don't even consider a vintage speaker amp but I've been using these exclusively since 2013 without looking back at headphone-specific amps. To each their own - I get that - but for those who have never tried a HE-6 or HE-6SE on one of these from the taps you are missing an opportunity.

 

[YtseJamer]

I am curious if people have suggestion on which is likely to be the best amplifier for the HE6SEv2:

• Monolith THX 887 (XLR4)
• Emotiva Mini-A100 (Speaker Terminal -- older version with no headphone jack)
• NAD 370 (Speaker Terminal)

Or, is the hype about how hard these are to drive overblown, and all of the above effectively powerful enough?

Apparently the new Jotunheim 2 ($399) is a very good match with the HE-6SE.

https://www.schiit.com/products/jotunheim-10

 

[DeafAudiophile]

Apparently the new Jotunheim 2 ($399) is a very good match with the HE-6SE.

https://www.schiit.com/products/jotunheim-10

From what source though? Is it just from the specs?

 

[deafenears]

From what source though? Is it just from the specs?

Schiit has a 15-day return policy (5% restocking fee). You could try for yourself?

 

[DeafAudiophile]

Schiit has a 15-day return policy (5% restocking fee). You could try for yourself?

I'm just asking for the source. It doesn't make sense to me to try out every recommendation without in-depth review or a community consensus especially if the cost is out of my pocket. 5% of $400 is still $20 and w/e the cost of return shipping.

 

[YtseJamer]

From what source though? Is it just from the specs?

Another forum

I can PM you with the link if you want.