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HiFiMan HE4XX

Discussion in 'Headphones (full-size)' started by ProtegeManiac, Aug 2, 2017.
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  1. serwei
    Hi guys, is there a non custom short cable for this? Preferably balanced. Contemplating an es100 hung at necklace length. Or a really short flat ribbon cable that can run the es100 as a clip on next to an earcup...

    Also, did anyone think of copying the sony z1r earcup for a modular closed design? :D
     
  2. turbomustang84
    https://periaptcables.com/collections/frontpage/products/2-type-2-dual-2-5mm
     
    serwei likes this.
  3. hsdrggr
    I. Actually I do this quite a bit with my ES 100 and Velcro it to the earcup. There are a couple 3.5 mm cables I use.

    One is a short jumper that came with FiiO amps. FiiO L8 or L17.
    43B28247-B93A-4075-9979-28B02123A4C1.jpeg

    it looks like Amazon sells one almost like it. 10cm long. $8
    Short 3.5mm Right Angle Cable, Gold Plated 90 Degree 3.5 Male to Male Audio Stereo... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L87NBTD/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_Sy3XCb4NESCFT
    6DC82BE1-C103-4EED-AB02-06651A7FDB2D.jpeg

    The other is an ultra (3cm long) short 3.5 mm jumper sold by JDS Labs. $5 each.
    https://jdslabs.com/product/ultra-short-35mm-interconnect-cable/
    3C367D24-BEB6-41AF-A23A-F3367D296A15.jpeg

    I don’t know of anyone making a short 2.5mm TRRS jumper. I guess I could solder one up. But that would cost about $25.

    I just ordered a pair of Beyerdynamic DT 177x Go Headphones and I’ll probable make a custom balanced jumper for the the ES100 or HiBy W5 when I get it. 2.5mm TRRS to a 4-pin mini-xlr. Should be a pretty awesome setup.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2019
    serwei likes this.
  4. serwei
    Thanks for the links!
    I sort of gave up when I saw only mostly short XLR connectors, or MIC cables lol..


    How about a "closed" earcup? I was looking at the Z1R and I realised that with mini inner spikes would probably work quite well as a baffle/diffuser :D
     
  5. hsdrggr
    those babies are way out of my league.
     
  6. Krellefdenmark
    I have a piece of advice for anyone looking to mount angled leather pads on the headphones, and finding the sound too dark/rumbly/veiled:

    Felt pads.

    I have taken 2 felt pads and mounted to each cup, and then mounted the pads as per usual. The felt pads are mounted 180 degrees from each other, hence why you can only see one of them on the picture.

    To my ears, the "mod" has made the bass kick like a horse, and on top of that, it's fully under control. The sound has also become just a tad brighter, and seperation of the sounds is now much more pronounced.
    felt_pads.jpg
     
  7. bagwell359
    I'm using 560 v1 pads with them, with the stock rear cover replaced by a 1/2 grid pictured in the HE-500 thread. A bit of dynamat. Still lots of bass, but better damped and not over the top. It's good as my outdoor/travel can.
     
  8. finitol
    Hi all!!

    after several test i found best balance with clear back (without grills, only a plastic minimal structure) and addinf a 6cm diametre cercle of toilet paper...

    Really works!! retains bass, minimal mids intrusion and plenty of airy highs BUT taming harsh effect on low treble.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2019
  9. bagwell359
    How many plies is the TP? I agree that they sound better with rear screens off. Also if the pads are too thick, the treble becomes unlistenable.
     
  10. hsdrggr
    I use just one single ply between cushion mesh and the drivers.
     
  11. bagwell359
    My times trying to wedge in a piece between the cup and a pad (thick or otherwise) results in a lot of lost bass. I didn't try your exact combo however.
     
  12. bagwell359
    I'm gong to sligtly redo my mods. More dynamat, bit less felt. Stick with very sparse back screen (1/2" grid), 560v1 pads, cheapo silver plated XLR cable.
     
  13. leeperry
    Where did you put the dynamat & felt please?

    Personally, I've gotten those two nasty wires out of the way on each side:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    DavidA and nick n like this.
  14. bagwell359
    oops...

    dynamat along the edge where they meet the drivers (careful of putting in too much or letting it get too hot (might melt), and none touching the driver, then apply the felt higher up the wall all the way around too. P.S. I strip the dynamat from the metal so I can wedge it in, and I don't get reflections from the metal.

    The HE-500 and HE-6 have a lot more to do then the HE4*, Sundara, HE5se.
     
  15. BobSmith8901
    Wondering if someone knows the answer to this: I have an HE-4XX with the new, standard dual 3.5mm TRS headphone connectors.

    I saw a nice aftermarket cable, possibly for my HiFiMans that was specifically targeting the DENON AH-D600, Velodyne vTrue, AK T1p, and SONOROUS VI. The cable had, instead of dual 3.5mm TRS plugs, dual 3.5mm TS plugs. These latter are 2-conductors plugs vs the more common dual TRS 3.5's which have 3-conductors.

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/16-cores-OC...rentrq:8caf3be316b0a4b7fcb323beffaf5293|iid:1

    I've seen the product descriptions of the above headphones which include pictures of the headphone connectors and they're all, to a headphone, sporting the dual 3.5mm TS, 2-conductor plugs.

    Since we're just routing a single channel from each respective left and right headphone connector into the various terminations (SE or Bal) I'm wondering if these 3.5mm TS 2-conductor headphone connectors can work normally in, say the HE-4XX or other headphones that traditionally take the 3.5mm TRS?

    Is there something different in the internal headphone cup wiring of these other cans vs. the HE-4XX or do the more common 3.5mm TRS dual plugs, while operationally fine, have an unnecessary extra conductor?

    Hope I've been sufficiently clear and any thoughts appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2019
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