HifiMAN HE-6 Planar Magnetic Headphone
Apr 15, 2016 at 3:44 AM Post #18,571 of 21,860
Never use such connectors.
 
Especially when driving HE-6 from a FirstWatt-type amplifier.
 
An accidental pull of the cable could extract the connector from the headphone and could short (damage) the output stage of the amplifier!
 
The best connector is the Hifiman screw type with a highly flexible cable (that could keep the connector tightened in place)..
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 6:03 AM Post #18,573 of 21,860
The SMC connector is very prone to "rotational torque" as a result from the rigidness / stiffness of the cable. If the latter is flexible (i.e. multi-strand copper with soft insulation) there is no problem.
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 6:31 AM Post #18,574 of 21,860
the standard smc removable is the worst in my opinion, very unreliable connectivity.  better to hardwire if your worried about something like that. 

I disagree, for connection reliability I'd take an SMC connector over phono type connector any day. There's a reason the former are used in high bandwidth communications - you won't see dodgy 2.5mm phono plugs used such applications.
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 8:16 AM Post #18,576 of 21,860
The reason that type of connector is used in communications is because of its connection integrity - this same quality is, of course, also valuable for audio purposes.
While the SMC provides a very solid ground and minimises movement on the 'hot' connection, it has no give or break-away when subjected to stress. This means if you stand on the cable and stress the cord the connector won't 'give' and the solder joints/cable will be stressed and, eventually, break. This is very different from a lack of integrity at the connection point.  
FWIW, I've also had a connector go intermittent - due to the above scenario - I simply re-soldered it. I'd still take the SMC connector over an easy disconnect lower integrity phono connection. YMMV.
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 9:59 AM Post #18,577 of 21,860
Connected my power amp to the he6 via speaker taps with the ifi itube as preamp. Have always used my own preamp but didnt have it with me that time. Turned the itube on and it sent a jolt to my he6. Both drivers blown. Whoever designed that POS Ifi itube should be fired.
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 10:39 AM Post #18,578 of 21,860
Connected my power amp to the he6 via speaker taps with the ifi itube as preamp. Have always used my own preamp but didnt have it with me that time. Turned the itube on and it sent a jolt to my he6. Both drivers blown. Whoever designed that POS Ifi itube should be fired.

Very sorry to hear that. Was the power amp on when you switched the pre-amp on ? It is the foremost & the most important rule of using a pre + power combo - Always switch the pre-amp on first , then switch the power amp on. While switching off follow reverse order.
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 2:27 PM Post #18,579 of 21,860
Regret your pain.  
 
But it's a good reminder to me as I have gotten accustomed to pre's with a safety feature, i.e. with a 5 second mute delay when turned on to avoid that problem.    Need to be paying closer attention.
 
gl
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 7:03 PM Post #18,580 of 21,860
  I have been thinking about getting the Audeze leather pads for the HE-6 instead of the vegan since the leather surface is (more) airtight which could yield firmer and even deeper bass extension. If the leather then seems to reflect more treble, it could be fixed by taping felt on the inner sides of the pad. So - more direct comparisons between these two pads are very welcome!
 
On another note, my next mod will be adding Blu-tack (or in my case Pritt) partly around the driver. My idea is that the sonically non-compromising feature of the Blu-tack mod is reducing vibrations in the cup / driver assembly. In that respect, it's like the sorbothane mod. However, by sealing the driver to the cup the Blu-tack mod also tightens the bass at the expense of bass quantity and in turn overall tonal balance. By only putting adhesive paste at for example seven areas around the driver while leaving air-gaps between them, both the vibration reduction and bass quantity should be intact. That's what I hope for at least...

Finally gonna get around to playing with my cans this weekend. Seems my HE-6 has spent quite some time in storage but...spring is in the air. And I wanna touch 'em up a bit. Currently have most mods done modestly, now looking ahead at "Blu-tack." In my case it'll actually be rope caulk since I've used it for years and it's lying about.
 
I'm interested in trying the seven areas around the driver first, as you suggested for your trial. Have you a photo for illustration as to where I wanna place my pieces? Thanks.
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 7:15 PM Post #18,581 of 21,860
  Regret your pain.  
 
But it's a good reminder to me as I have gotten accustomed to pre's with a safety feature, i.e. with a 5 second mute delay when turned on to avoid that problem.    Need to be paying closer attention.
 
gl

 
I think that feature should come standard for ALL preamps. You'd think a company like IFI who thinks of all sorts of possible features/gimmicks would've thought of including that.
 
Apr 15, 2016 at 10:02 PM Post #18,583 of 21,860
I don't know why you guys bitch about the connection.  It's super solid.  Pull headphones out of box, attach cables, listen to music.  I don't EVER remove my cables.  In fact I'm getting mine hardwired.
 
Apr 16, 2016 at 1:41 AM Post #18,585 of 21,860

  i can see how smc would be good for connections that weren't frequently removed, but in the he-6 application, i think it was not a great choice.  not convenient enough to use regularly.
ive had no problems with connection on my 2.5mm plugs, and its easier to remove than the smc

I have no issue with the thumb screw connection and find it pretty quick and easy to use if I want to swap cables.
I'm not saying the SMC is ideal for this purpose (meant for use with coax and high compression crimp on the shield etc)- but better than 3.5/2.5mm phono jacks IMO.
I'd probably prefer a mini XLR or something similar to the Senn HD600 connectors.
 
Agreed, why do people remove cables? Mine have been hardwired for years.

For sure, hard wired is the best solution if you've found your ideal cable.
I want the option to use banana's to power amp or 1/4" jack.
At the moment I use a separate cable for 1/4", but could do hardwire to XLR and then use XLR to the cable termination of choice.
 

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