[Todd R]

Just got my first project finished, and it actually works!
P. Millett Low Voltage Hybrid amp.
It even sounds halfway decent. I used Cardas wire & RCA Jacks and the 12FM6 tubes which sounded better to me than the 12AE6A.

Thought I'd show it off, so here's the pictures. It's painted with "Hammered Finish" paint that I found at the local hardware superstore.

 

[eric343]

Nice!

 

[Voodoochile]

Cool, Todd! Have to admit I was pleasantly surprised with mine- it's really quite nice, even price aside. Do you mind fielding a few questions?

Did you hang the other components from the underside (what I was planning in afterthought

), or did you run lead to the sockets? I did mine in the serpac tray, figuring I'd do something nicer later- then wished I had hung everything below.

Also, AE was out of the 12FM6 when I ordered- are they back in, or did you find a diff source for them?

What did you end up using for a supply voltage, and what are your tubes biased at? I'm at 28v in, biased to 18.5v... but you don't get a chance to compare note too often with this amp.

 

[Todd R]

Quote:

Originally posted by Voodoochile Cool, Todd! Have to admit I was pleasantly surprised with mine- it's really quite nice, even price aside. Do you mind fielding a few questions? Did you hang the other components from the underside (what I was planning in afterthought ), or did you run lead to the sockets? I did mine in the serpac tray, figuring I'd do something nicer later- then wished I had hung everything below. Also, AE was out of the 12FM6 when I ordered- are they back in, or did you find a diff source for them? What did you end up using for a supply voltage, and what are your tubes biased at? I'm at 28v in, biased to 18.5v... but you don't get a chance to compare note too often with this amp.

Thanks for the kind comments.
I attached the circuit board to the bottom of the unit and ran wires from the board to the tube sockets. I'll post some more pictures whe I open it up to check the bias.

I got my first set of tubes frm Antique Electronic supply, and the 12FM6 from Brent Jesee Recordings. He's out too, but they are on his wanted list.

I'm using the suggested wall wart but have ordered the HB24-1.2-A power supply from Brigar Electronics Inc. The different bias levels have not made too much difference to me so far, but I think I left it at 16V.

 

[Voodoochile]

Thanks for the updates. I'll keep poking around for tubes, and maybe drop Brent Jesee a note.

Extending the tubes sockets shouldn't be too hard to do with plenty of desoldering wick, removing the Pana pot and jacks will be easy. What I was planning to do eventually is a Doc Bottlehead-type chassis with the psu right inside (I'm using an open-frame linear at the moment). Initially I was thinking that the heatsinks should be outside with the tubes, but they never get very warm anyway. Live and learn.

I did have some initial concerns about the effects (if any) of extending the sockets from the board... but most tube equipment is built ptp anyway, so I made a lot of rework for myself! I have 20/20 hindsight.

edit- Looking forward to your inside shots also, thanks!

 

[jamont]

Quote:

Originally posted by Todd R I'm using the suggested wall wart but have ordered the HB24-1.2-A power supply from Brigar Electronics Inc. The different bias levels have not made too much difference to me so far, but I think I left it at 16V.

You'll hear the difference when you get the HB24-1.2-A PSU, the wall wart is unregulated and the ripple is noticeable.

Very nice job on the case!

 

[minya]

I like my Millett amp very much, though it hasn't gotten much use since I received my Gilmore V2. And I didn't build a proper case for it so it's ugly as hell.

Can anyone give me more info on this new power supply? Is it worth it, etc. ?

Thanks,
- Chris

 

[jamont]

Quote:

Originally posted by minya [Can anyone give me more info on this new power supply? Is it worth it, etc. ?

The HB24-1.2-A is the one I suggested several months ago, and it works well. I have also tried the Elpac WM080 and that also works well. They are both regulated and a clear improvement on the unregulated CUI wall-wart.

 

[Wodgy]

I'd suggest going to a good 28V power supply, rather than a 24V one. I've tried both with the Millett Hybrid, and the extra headroom with a 28V supply makes a noticeable difference with medium and high impedance cans. With Grados it probably wouldn't matter.

 

[Todd R]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamont The HB24-1.2-A is the one I suggested several months ago, and it works well.

I have not got the power supply yet, but it looks like it needs a case of some kind.
What did you mount yours in?

 

[HighwayStar]

Very nice Todd, very nice...

 

[jamont]

Quote:

Originally posted by Todd R I have not got the power supply yet, but it looks like it needs a case of some kind. What did you mount yours in?

I used Mouser 40UB103, which is a small vented instrument case. I mounted it with aluminum standoffs, and added a fuse, power switch, AC line and a male DC coaxial connector/cable that plugs into the female on the PCB.

 

[Voodoochile]

The 28v I'm using is a... (either Condor or Power-One, can't recall) open-frame linear, about 2A IIRC. It's very quiet, and was $16 shipped from ebay. The PSU itself was only $10! I wish I had bought the two that the seller had. It's beefy.

Presently the PSU is cased similarly to Jamont's... mine looks quite a bit like Greg Szekeres' amp because my power umbilicle has bananna plugs on the PSU end and the case has 5-way binding posts instead. I use it for other stuff as well.

 

[andrzejpw]

Very nice! Make sure to post a review eventually

.