[nshirk]

Hello, I finally started building my meta42. And have run into a few questions.

One: where does the power go? I used the pads closest to C1R

Two: Since I am using D2, do I have to jumper (- -)? I've read I have 2, but It seems to work either way.

Three: I think I bought the wrong dips for the resistor banks. digikey.com part # AE7314-ND These are basically the same the the ones that I purchased for the buffers but in a 14 position. The resistors seem to be really loose fitting in the holes. Or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Voodoochile]

Hi:

1: Use the lower pads if you have ver2.2 or newer. See section 6 on this page for an explanation. A picture of the board is here . The pads you want, if you are using a wall-wart, are the + and - pads CLOSEST to C1R. The square one in the middle is +, and the one to the right (as oriented in the picture) is the - pad.

2: You want to bridge over the "--" switchpads if using D2. There is detail and a picture in section 3.

3: I have no idea! If they are from the same line as the DIP-8 sockets, you shuld be good to go. Perhaps you have resistors with weenie leads? Probably not. More likely they are not being pushed all the way into the socket. It takes a little bit of force. Try taking a new, straight resistor. Stand it on end in one of the sockets and try to insert it. Does it sort of fall right in, or is there a good amount of resistance (no pun)- then a little release as it slides in? (no snickering in the back... I do not write romance novels)


edit: if you are using the ver 2.2 or newer board, make damn sure you do not connect your power to the two pads that are closer to the electrolytics. As you can see in the PCB picture, they are connected to each other and will make big trouble for you and your PSU. They are there to facilitate joining the + lead of one battery snap to the - lead of the other- joining them in series for 18v if you are going that way. But if you have D2 in there, I assume you are not.

 

[tangent]

Quote:

do I have to jumper (- -)

You use the D2 diode to jump across one of the sets of switch pads. This is not to say that you put a jumper between them! As you say, that doesn't make it stop working, but it does defeat the diode. Remove the jumper if you want the diode to do its job.

Quote:

The resistors seem to be really loose fitting in the holes.

Different resistors have different lead thicknesses. I'm sorry to hear that you're having trouble with this, but I don't know of any sockets with tighter "fingers". If you're getting noises in the sound that pushing down on the resistors fixes, I'd say get some resistors with thicker leads (e.g. Vishay Dale RN55Ds). If you're not getting audible problems, don't worry about it.

 

[nshirk]

Quote:

Originally posted by tangent You use the D2 diode to jump across one of the sets of switch pads. This is not to say that you put a jumper between them! As you say, that doesn't make it stop working, but it does defeat the diode. Remove the jumper if you want the diode to do its job.

He He, I see that now that I went back and looked at the board layout. Guess I should remove the jumper.


Quote:

Originally posted by tangent Different resistors have different lead thicknesses. I'm sorry to hear that you're having trouble with this, but I don't know of any sockets with tighter "fingers". If you're getting noises in the sound that pushing down on the resistors fixes, I'd say get some resistors with thicker leads (e.g. Vishay Dale RN55Ds). If you're not getting audible problems, don't worry about it.

Ah I had some resistors from Radio Shack, that I was planing on using until all of my RN55's showed up. I did manage to get the RN55C's in the dip holes. I'll have to try the Shack onces one more time. It might be the tool I cut the resistors with is giving me the problems. It flatens the ends of the leads (maybe too much).

Thanks for the help guys.