[fermelom]

I've making some research about the Qinpu products and I'm very interested in get a Desktop System but I would like some advice to choose the best system for me.
 
I really like the VF-3.3 loud speakers and I would choose them for start, maybe with the subwofer sw5, but I'm thinkin which Qinpu Amp would match better if the D-1 or the A-6000 MKII. I've seen that the price is very close but the spec very different about power. Also I understand that the tube implementation is different but I don't understad exactly that difference. So I really appreciate any information that helps me to evaluate which amp to choose or any other combination of Qinpu products that you'll think it could be better.

For reference, the room to install this system is quite small 16 feet by 9 feet and my actual setup is the monitors Alesis M1Active 520USB (I'm supposing that the Qinpu system should sound better).
 
In advance, thank you.
 
Edit: This thread started around the brand Qinpu but after the input it has move forward to a system able to fill a small room but that could fit in a desktop.

 

[brunk]

The D-1 is rated to handle the 4-ohm load of the VF-3.3 speakers. The A-6000 MKII isn't. If I were working with your budget and this website, I would go with the Bewitch S8 speakers + Music Angel Mengye Minil3 EL34*4 Tube Integrated Amplifier. The reason for this is the those (VF-3.3)speakers are rated so low at 4 ohms, yet highly sensitive that you're going to hear quite a bit of distortion coming out of them with this kind of gear. The Bewitch S8 speakers are less sensitive, but need more power. The amp I chose for them is much higher quality by the tubes chosen, and the speakers have a 5-inch woofer compared to what i think is a 3-inch woofer on the VF-3.3. Plus your room size, those Qinpu speakers will be quite disappointing. 
 
Regards,
Brunk
Quote:

  I've making some research about the Qinpu products and I'm very interested in get a Desktop System but I would like some advice to choose the best system for me.
 
I really like the VF-3.3 loud speakers and I would choose them for start, maybe with the subwofer sw5, but I'm thinkin which Qinpu Amp would match better if the D-1 or the A-6000 MKII. I've seen that the price is very close but the spec very different about power. Also I understand that the tube implementation is different but I don't understad exactly that difference. So I really apreciate any information that helps me to evaluate which amp to choose or any other combination of Qinpu products that you'll think it could be better.

For reference, the room to install this system is quite small 16 feet by 9 feet and my actual setup is the monitors Alesis M1Active 520USB (I'm supposing that the Qinpu system should sound better).
 
In advance, thank you.

 

[cel4145]

I really like the VF-3.3 loud speakers and I would choose them for start, maybe with the subwofer sw5,

That "subwoofer," if you can call it that (seems more of a midbass module), is rated " 45Hz-250Hz (± 10dB)." That means it might already be -10 db down at 45hz. Plus it's only 15 watts. Your M1 Active monitors may have better bass response. You'd be better off to save a little money and get the Dayton SUB 800, or catch the Pioneer SW-8 or Polk PSW10 on sale.

For reference, the room to install this system is quite small 16 feet by 9 feet and my actual setup is the monitors Alesis M1Active 520USB (I'm supposing that the Qinpu system should sound better).

Have you heard those Qinpu speakers or found numerous reviews of people who have? I would bet you could do better for your budget in terms of SQ unless you are buying the Qinpu system mainly because its not a well known brand and for its quirky design aspects. Otherwise, that's a lot of money to gamble on a system that you aren't going to want to pay to ship back to China for a return if you don't like it. For example, Stereophile preferred the Topping TP30 over the Qinpu Q-2 amp. Couple the Topping TP30 with the ARX A1b, you'd have an impressive sounding set of speakers with bass extension likely as deep as that sw5 sub.

 

[fermelom]

Thank you for your replies brunk and cel4145.
 
I started to look a replacement for my desktop setup after checking head-direct website, they offer a desktop combo based in the A6000. What attracts me about it it's the valves. I had an experience with a very vintage valve amp running some speakers without brand but I remember that it sounded quite magical, not super hifi would say but with something that my yamaha amp at that time didn't had, so I thought that now that I can afford it I would like an valve amp or an hybrid. So I made my choose based in reviews but when it comes about a pairing and performance I don't know what to expect, that's why I ask for your help.
 
I liked the both speakers that you recommends, even different technology both seems quite similar to my M1 Active monitor in size and freq response. So please let me re do the question. I could afford a set up, speakers and amp, up to 1,500. but I cannot make my room bigger. So which combo from any brands, speakers and amp (pure valves or hybrid), would you recommend due the size of my listening room, even if you recommend another amp to pair with the Bewitch S8 or with the ARX A1b, also if you would recommend a subwoofer.
 
As a source I'll be running AP Linux with lossless and hd files and I will use my hm-901 as a DAC when the dock station will be ready (I already ordered the dock but now I'm using my PIco as a DAC, it runs 24/96).
 
Thank you so much for your time and advise.

 

[brunk]

  Thank you for your replies brunk and cel4145.
 
I started to look a replacement for my desktop setup after checking head-direct website, they offer a desktop combo based in the A6000. What attracts me about it it's the valves. I had an experience with a very vintage valve amp running some speakers without brand but I remember that it sounded quite magical, not super hifi would say but with something that my yamaha amp at that time didn't had, so I thought that now that I can afford it I would like an valve amp or an hybrid. So I made my choose based in reviews but when it comes about a pairing and performance I don't know what to expect, that's why I ask for your help.
 
I liked the both speakers that you recommends, even different technology both seems quite similar to my M1 Active monitor in size and freq response. So please let me re do the question. I could afford a set up, speakers and amp, up to 1,500. but I cannot make my room bigger. So which combo from any brands, speakers and amp (pure valves or hybrid), would you recommend due the size of my listening room, even if you recommend another amp to pair with the Bewitch S8 or with the ARX A1b, also if you would recommend a subwoofer.
 
As a source I'll be running AP Linux with lossless and hd files and I will use my hm-901 as a DAC when the dock station will be ready (I already ordered the dock but now I'm using my PIco as a DAC, it runs 24/96).
 
Thank you so much for your time and advise.

Ok that makes it much easier to work now. Few questions though.
 
How close will you be sitting to the speakers?
Do you have a size limitation in speakers, floorstanders or no?
How much SPL (loudness) do you want?
Can you do some DIY, soldering or no soldering?

 

[fermelom]

  Ok that makes it much easier to work now. Few questions though.
 
How close will you be sitting to the speakers?
Do you have a size limitation in speakers, floorstanders or no?
How much SPL (loudness) do you want?
Can you do some DIY, soldering or no soldering?

How close will you be sitting to the speakers?
Right now my speakers are over my desktop like 4 feet of separation and I seat aprox. 3 feet from each speaker.
Do you have a size limitation in speakers, floorstanders or no?
The speakers must be the bookshelf type, 5 to 6 inch woofer would be ideal, I called it "listening room" but it's an studio where I live, so there's not too much room due basically the bed. I could use stands, actually I like the idea, I think that I could place them just outside the surface of the desktop, as I visualize it the speakers will be 5 1/2 feet separation, and I will be like 3 1/2 or 4 feet from the speakers. Also I had plenty room in the floor for a subwofer.
How much SPL (loudness) do you want?
I won't listen loud (in the M1 I barely go beyond the first third of the volume knob with quiet records) but I like to feel the impact of a record with good dynamics, also I would like to have enough power to fill the double of space of my actual place cos I will eventually move and it's better have a little extra.
Can you do some DIY, soldering or no soldering?
Yes, I can. I've done some repairing in connectors and amps, I modified my Pico DAC/Amp following the instructions of the manufacturer due a problem of compatibility with my Galaxy Note 2. I don't feel like an expert... but at least I had a quite expensive silver solder that I bought to exchange the connectors of an iBasso D6.
 
Again brunk, thank you for your time and advice.

 

[cel4145]

The Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 is a combined DAC/headphone amp/pre-amp with a tube pre-amp for use with the RCA outs (the tube pre-amp does not connect with the headphone output). So if coupled with a solid state amp, that would effectively be a hybrid. My own experience with it and then the Little Dot I+ hybrid headphone amp is that these sort of hybrid setups only add a little tube sound. On the other hand, good tube amps that include tubes in the amplification stage, like the vintage you heard, are generally very expensive for speakers.

With a $1500 budget, there a lot of setups that would sound very, very good. For instance, I just got the SVS SB-1000 subwoofer, which is an incredibly tight sounding compact sealed subwoofer, and a far better buy than traditional home audio and pro audio speaker company subs. There are certainly better powered studio monitors that are an upgrade over your Alesis M1Active 520USB, and plenty of passive speakers as well. In fact, if you like DIY, there are also speaker kits that you can build yourself that are incredible values for price/performance.

 

[MalVeauX]

Heya,
 
Getting real tubes for amplification to speakers, is going to be a difficult thing to achieve on your budget, unless you go into the used/vintage section. The problem is that you can get an amplifier that is capable of driving speakers, but that thing will likely take the bulk of your budget depending on what speakers you want to get. If you get some really efficient speakers, you can get away with very little amplification, but if you select speakers that need some current throughput because they're not as sensitive, it will be harder to get a high powered tube kit that will do what you want in the price range you're looking at. Again, it really comes down to what speakers you want to truly go with.
 
As an alternative, since speaker level tube amplifiers are certainly not my forte, I would definitely look into tube DACs or a simple tube pre-amp. You can add tube sound to any setup just by having it in the pre-amp section of a DAC (see: tube dac) or by using a tube amplifier as a middle man if it has pre-amp output (these often are headphone amps with pre-amp output that can be used in this manner). I have both and have done both with headphones and speakers. It adds the tube sound, without breaking the bank on a tube amplifier setup that can drive speakers on a lower budget.
 
Suggestions would be the Maverick Audio TubeMagic D2 as a DAC (with tube pre-amp out). It's about $250. Excellent DAC. USB, optical, etc, inputs. Alternatively, something like the Little Dot MK III or MK IV is OTL and has pre-amp output, so you can input from any DAC, apply tube goodness, then output via pre-amp output to a solid state amp that will drive your speakers. $200~300. Both methods can be used, or one method can be used, and this will easily fit into your budget. This allows for the bulk of your budget to go into the speakers and a quality solid state amplifier.
 
As for some bookshelf speakers, look at the KEF Q300 at this price. Or maybe some LSi9's. Maybe some RB-51 II's. Add a little subwoofer love, down the road maybe. Alternative sub that is very good for it's cost.
Use any DAC you want. Little Dot MK III as a tube pre-amp. Solid state amplifier such as the UPA-200 or even the A-100.
That way you can enjoy the look of the speakers, the sight of a tube amp glowing away, you can control volume via the tube pre-amp, with the integrated solid state amp doing the serious work. Stack'em.
 
Very best,

 

[brunk]

  How close will you be sitting to the speakers?
Right now my speakers are over my desktop like 4 feet of separation and I seat aprox. 3 feet from each speaker.
Do you have a size limitation in speakers, floorstanders or no?
The speakers must be the bookshelf type, 5 to 6 inch woofer would be ideal, I called it "listening room" but it's an studio where I live, so there's not too much room due basically the bed. I could use stands, actually I like the idea, I think that I could place them just outside the surface of the desktop, as I visualize it the speakers will be 5 1/2 feet separation, and I will be like 3 1/2 or 4 feet from the speakers. Also I had plenty room in the floor for a subwofer.
How much SPL (loudness) do you want?
I won't listen loud (in the M1 I barely go beyond the first third of the volume knob with quiet records) but I like to feel the impact of a record with good dynamics, also I would like to have enough power to fill the double of space of my actual place cos I will eventually move and it's better have a little extra.
Can you do some DIY, soldering or no soldering?
Yes, I can. I've done some repairing in connectors and amps, I modified my Pico DAC/Amp following the instructions of the manufacturer due a problem of compatibility with my Galaxy Note 2. I don't feel like an expert... but at least I had a quite expensive silver solder that I bought to exchange the connectors of an iBasso D6.
 
Again brunk, thank you for your time and advice.

OK thanks. Allow me some time to come up with some options for you. One last thing though. If you're considering speaker stands, it sounds like floor standers are an option, especially for future use. When moving in the future, do you plan on the same listening position or further back?

 

[brunk]

1) Here's a great DIY bookshelf setup. It's a SET amp with a full-range Fostex Driver. You'll want to get a sub as well.

1. The S.E.X. 2.1 Kit + DIY Fostex Speakers for under $500. Approx. $1,000.

 
2) Another DIY 2A3 amp with Floorstanding speakers. 

1. Stereomour Stereo Single Ended 2A3/45 Integrated Amplifier Kit + Klipsch Heresay II Speakers. Approx. $1,350.​ My personal pick of the bunch if you can swing it in your room.
   
2. Or you can add the Klipsch Tangent T-1000 Bookshelves at a total cost of approx. $1,150. Will require subwoofer.
   

​3) This combo is a very high quality studio bookshelf set with a power amp that sounds like a 300B tube which is considered one of the best sounding tubes there is.

1.  Abin Audio MQ1 Power Amplifier + Grant Fidelity LS3/5A Studio Monitors approx $1,400. Note that you will need a preamplifier somewhere in the chain.

4) Recommended DIY Subwoofer Kit

1. Dayton Audio T1003K 10" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer Kit $400.
   

5) Recommended preamps

1. The Eva passive approx. $260 Worth the wait if you can hold out.
2. Bottlehead Quickie $99

 

EDIT: One more thing. If you can do floorstanders, but want something taller and a little skinnier, The Zu Omen Dirty Weekend speakers $1,000 will pair well with any of these amps. Especially the SET amps.

 

[fermelom]

Heya,

Getting real tubes for amplification to speakers, is going to be a difficult thing to achieve on your budget, unless you go into the used/vintage section. The problem is that you can get an amplifier that is capable of driving speakers, but that thing will likely take the bulk of your budget depending on what speakers you want to get. If you get some really efficient speakers, you can get away with very little amplification, but if you select speakers that need some current throughput because they're not as sensitive, it will be harder to get a high powered tube kit that will do what you want in the price range you're looking at. Again, it really comes down to what speakers you want to truly go with.

As an alternative, since speaker level tube amplifiers are certainly not my forte, I would definitely look into tube DACs or a simple tube pre-amp. You can add tube sound to any setup just by having it in the pre-amp section of a DAC (see: tube dac) or by using a tube amplifier as a middle man if it has pre-amp output (these often are headphone amps with pre-amp output that can be used in this manner). I have both and have done both with headphones and speakers. It adds the tube sound, without breaking the bank on a tube amplifier setup that can drive speakers on a lower budget.

Suggestions would be the Maverick Audio TubeMagic D2 as a DAC (with tube pre-amp out). It's about $250. Excellent DAC. USB, optical, etc, inputs. Alternatively, something like the Little Dot MK III or MK IV is OTL and has pre-amp output, so you can input from any DAC, apply tube goodness, then output via pre-amp output to a solid state amp that will drive your speakers. $200~300. Both methods can be used, or one method can be used, and this will easily fit into your budget. This allows for the bulk of your budget to go into the speakers and a quality solid state amplifier.

As for some bookshelf speakers, look at the KEF Q300 at this price. Or maybe some LSi9's. Maybe some RB-51 II's. Add a little subwoofer love, down the road maybe. Alternative sub that is very good for it's cost.
Use any DAC you want. Little Dot MK III as a tube pre-amp. Solid state amplifier such as the UPA-200 or even the A-100.
That way you can enjoy the look of the speakers, the sight of a tube amp glowing away, you can control volume via the tube pre-amp, with the integrated solid state amp doing the serious work. Stack'em.

Very best,

Thank you for your time MalVeauX checking prices and spec I'm considering seriously the alternative of an tube preamp and a solid state. But still checking cos with all the information that you have me guys I've imaging several setups, even with an hybrid amp from Maverick but I couldn't find any spec sheet in their website.

 

[TrollDragon]

One word of caution about using a Little Dot MK III or MK IV as a pre-amp, this is straight from the manual.

The Little Dot MK III is not recommended to be used with a DC or direct coupled power amplifier.

 
There are possible circumstances where a tube failure can drive over 100V DC through the LD's pre-amp out, which in turn on a Direct Coupled amplifier will take out the amp and most likely your speakers with it.
 
Just a word of caution if you choose this route, might work well for years, then one day a bad tube short and the smoke will roll.

 

[fermelom]

1) Here's a great DIY bookshelf setup. It's a SET amp with a full-range Fostex Driver. You'll want to get a sub as well.

• The S.E.X. 2.1 Kit + DIY Fostex Speakers for under $500. Approx. $1,000.

2) Another DIY 2A3 amp with Floorstanding speakers. 

• 
  [COLOR=000000]Stereomour Stereo Single Ended 2A3/45 Integrated Amplifier Kit + Klipsch Heresay II Speakers. Approx. $1,350.[COLOR=000000]​ My personal pick of the bunch if you can swing it in your room.[/COLOR][/color]
  
  
  
  
• 
  [COLOR=000000]Or you can add the Klipsch Tangent T-1000 Bookshelves at a total cost of approx. $1,150. Will require subwoofer.[/color]
  
  
  
  

[COLOR=000000]​[/COLOR]3) This combo is a very high quality studio bookshelf set with a power amp that sounds like a 300B tube which is considered one of the best sounding tubes there is.

•  [COLOR=333333]Abin Audio MQ1 Power Amplifier [/COLOR]+ Grant Fidelity LS3/5A Studio Monitors approx $1,400. Note that you will need a preamplifier somewhere in the chain.
  

4) Recommended DIY Subwoofer Kit

• 
  Dayton Audio T1003K 10" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer Kit $400.
  
  
  
  
  

5) Recommended preamps

• The Eva passive approx. $260 Worth the wait if you can hold out.
  
• Bottlehead Quickie $99
  

 



EDIT: One more thing. If you can do floorstanders, but want something taller and a little skinnier, The Zu Omen Dirty Weekend speakers $1,000 will pair well with any of these amps. Especially the SET amps.

Thank you Brunk! I feel very attracted to the DIYs specially the second one. But I'm not sure if the link of the speakers to pair is correct, I see a very vintage bookshelf speakers and you started that was a floorstanding also the name doesn't match, both are Klipsch but the code name is slightly different. Please check cos you call it your pick.
About the MQ1 combo it's very interesting but, I'm surprised for saying this, I don't like the design of the amp but thinking how good it should sound I cannot pull it out of consideration. Actually it was the first link I checked. The last Floorstanding speakers to pair with the DIYs it's a little out budget but I could stretch it a little.
But recalling all the contributions, what would think about pairing the speakers ArxS1b with the DIYs? I like the planar magnetic tweeter and the price. I'm still wondering about the possibilities... Thank you so.

 

[cel4145]

Thank you for your time MalVeauX checking prices and spec I'm considering seriously the alternative of an tube preamp and a solid state. But still checking cos with all the information that you have me guys I've imaging several setups, even with an hybrid amp from Maverick but I couldn't find any spec sheet in their website.

What specs do you need to know?

http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tubemagic_d2/d2_hardware
http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tubemagic_d2/dac_comparison2

 

[fermelom]

One word of caution about using a Little Dot MK III or MK IV as a pre-amp, this is straight from the manual.

There are possible circumstances where a tube failure can drive over 100V DC through the LD's pre-amp out, which in turn on a Direct Coupled amplifier will take out the amp and most likely your speakers with it.

Just a word of caution if you choose this route, might work well for years, then one day a bad tube short and the smoke will roll.

Hi TrollDragon! I don't understand perfectly the issue, but it could be helpful if you know a way to avoid it, like choose a specific type of amp over others or something about managing the power supply.