Help Re: TREAD and PIMETA

[Jam_Master_J]

You may remember my old thread about a blown TLE 2426. MIsterX was kind enough to send me two replacements but I accidentally broke one trying to solder it and the other has now broken in use.

Heres the deal: Everytime I hook up my TREAD (supplied by a 24v DC wal-wart) the voltage splitter immediately smokes and then the amp fails. I find this bizarre because it was working fine on 9v batteries just ten minutes before this happened. I'm not sure if there is something wrong with my PIMETA or with my TREAD.

Is there anyone out there who would be willing to take a look at it? I can pay for shipping both ways and for your time as well.

-JMJ

 

[MisterX]

Did you smoke both of the new TLE's?
I am asking cause frying the TLE is a symptom..... if you just replace the TLE you're not solving the problem you are just recreating the symptom (by frying another TLE).
That is easier said then done though.

Do you have a picture?
If not bust out your ohm meter and check to make sure the V- from the TREAD is not shorted to the in-ground on the amp.



And, yes I would be more then happy to fix it for you.

(but I want to make sure we are not talking about a half built amp and a bunch of parts that you want someone to finish building for you like the last guy was)

 

[Sinbios]

I always wondered why on tangent's PCB's, the TLE's position has the center pin moved back. I've broken quite a few TLE's this way...

 

[Jam_Master_J]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX Did you smoke both of the new TLE's? I am asking cause frying the TLE is a symptom..... if you just replace the TLE you're not solving the problem you are just recreating the symptom (by frying another TLE). That is easier said then done though. Do you have a picture? If not bust out your ohm meter and check to make sure the V- from the TREAD is not shorted to the in-ground on the amp.

I don't think a short is an issue. The tread actually is not permanently linked to the enclosure in any way. The TREAD board is sitting on my desk and I have two wires coming from it sitting on the PIMETAs 9v battery clip until I find a permanent solution to my problem.

I broke the first TLE by trying to get that one leg bent out, the second fried just like my old one did.



Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX (but I want to make sure we are not talking about a half built amp and a bunch of parts that you want someone to finish building for you like the last guy was)

Oh no, this amp has been done and working for several months. The TLE issue is the only thing that has come up.

 

[MisterX]

Quote:

Jam_Master_J has exceeded their stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space.

 

[Jam_Master_J]

Thanks for the heads-up

. Those messages in the sent folder were taking up space and I never remember to delete them.

 

[tangent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinbios I always wondered why on tangent's PCB's, the TLE's position has the center pin moved back.

Stability. The alternative is to splay the legs, as done on the PPAv2, which allows you to bend the leads more easily (and thus risk breakage) after it's soldered together. Not that the splayed leg method is horrible; we chose to make this tradeoff on that board for other reasons.

Quote:

I've broken quite a few TLE's this way...

How, exactly? Were you trying to shove it down flush with the board or something? The bottom of the plastic package should be a good 1/8" above the board or so. That's not enough force to break component leads. Also, roughly the same force is involved in splaying leads, so... And if you think it should be possible to make a PCB that accepts the part without bending leads, you don't know PCB design.

 

[Sinbios]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangent Stability. The alternative is to splay the legs, as done on the PPAv2, which allows you to bend the leads more easily (and thus risk breakage) after it's soldered together. Not that the splayed leg method is horrible; we chose to make this tradeoff on that board for other reasons. How, exactly? Were you trying to shove it down flush with the board or something? The bottom of the plastic package should be a good 1/8" above the board or so. That's not enough force to break component leads. Also, roughly the same force is involved in splaying leads, so... And if you think it should be possible to make a PCB that accepts the part without bending leads, you don't know PCB design.

Ah, yes, I was trying to make the IC flush with the board, so I usually bend the lead at 90 degrees and then 90 again, so it goes straight down the third hole.

 

[MisterX]

(click for a larger view)

Even when you use a tread as a regulator you still need an isolated power supply or the amp will appear to eat TLE's for lunch.