[Tach]

I and another fellow had the same problem (his was ride side iirc) it came down to a transistor wearing out. Luckily it only costs a few dollars shipped. Try opening up the H10 and checking if the LEDs are lighting up. Usually when one side pops the LED goes out, that's the side you'll have to replace.

Example (Taken from Busterized's post)
http://i.imgur.com/fo9wbWY.jpg

red circle would be the transistor you replace

Thanks for getting back to me, hadn't used it for a bit due to the problem and thought I'd try again this evening. Opened it up and it seems all the LEDs are lit (4 of them) and it seems to happen more after it has been on a bit and warmed up. I'll leave the lid of in case it's a ventilation problem. The manufacturer had also sent me an email with a picture of it open and asked me to see if I could remove 4 particular pieces. (They look like small chips with 8 legs each) but it was all a bit vague. They didn't say what to do when they were removed, whether they wanted me to clean them or purchase new ones or whatever. I'd hate to stop using it if it was a simple fix.

Edit: Just looked again at your picture and one of the pieces I'm referring to that I was asked to remove happens to be between the two coloured circles at there's a red piece above and below it with I think it's U1J63 written on them.

Edit 2: Ok, so I figured out the things I'm refering to are opamps. Anyway, searched the thread and seen some folks had popping after installing the Burson opamps and someone solved their problem by swapping round the single ones. Have tried that and it's been a couple of hours pop free, fingers crossed it's a sign of things to come and problem solved.

Edit 3: Still happening

 

[UNOE]

How does the amp compare to Jot?

 

[Vanusk]

Thanks for getting back to me, hadn't used it for a bit due to the problem and thought I'd try again this evening. Opened it up and it seems all the LEDs are lit (4 of them) and it seems to happen more after it has been on a bit and warmed up. I'll leave the lid of in case it's a ventilation problem. The manufacturer had also sent me an email with a picture of it open and asked me to see if I could remove 4 particular pieces. (They look like small chips with 8 legs each) but it was all a bit vague. They didn't say what to do when they were removed, whether they wanted me to clean them or purchase new ones or whatever. I'd hate to stop using it if it was a simple fix.

Edit: Just looked again at your picture and one of the pieces I'm referring to that I was asked to remove happens to be between the two coloured circles at there's a red piece above and below it with I think it's U1J63 written on them.

Edit 2: Ok, so I figured out the things I'm refering to are opamps. Anyway, searched the thread and seen some folks had popping after installing the Burson opamps and someone solved their problem by swapping round the single ones. Have tried that and it's been a couple of hours pop free, fingers crossed it's a sign of things to come and problem solved.

Edit 3: Still happening

When my amp popped, one of the LED lights would immediately go out, then eventually come back on. Keep an eye on them. The amp runs really hot and doesn't have ventilation so component life can be an issue. The Burson V5 had an issue where they weren't rated for the voltage the H10 was dishing out, so they'd overheat and eventually fry.

 

[dfarina]

I picked up a used H10 recently and ordered the full set of v6 Burson op amps(classic duals,vivid singles).Just got the op amps installed and have been running them for an hour with the cover off.Measuring the temperature of the op amps with a temp gun they all are between 50-55 degrees celsius.Overall the amp isn't throwing off much heat.At this stage would it be ok to put the cover on?I did drill out the top of the cover for insurance,before the op amp upgrade it ran very cool,plan on letting it run for 4 days straight for the burn in period.

 

[Vanusk]

That is some nice drilling. Yeah should be fine. I've had 2 resistors fail so I've had to replace them (they're dirt cheap just annoying to solder since it's not pretty) the 2nd one failed with the case partially on to let some heat out. A drilled cover would have been better.

 

[dfarina]

I did end up putting the cover back on,after 8 hours it’s barely warm to the touch,so I think I’m good to go.

 

[wwmhf]

I picked up a used H10 recently and ordered the full set of v6 Burson op amps(classic duals,vivid singles).Just got the op amps installed and have been running them for an hour with the cover off.Measuring the temperature of the op amps with a temp gun they all are between 50-55 degrees celsius.Overall the amp isn't throwing off much heat.At this stage would it be ok to put the cover on?I did drill out the top of the cover for insurance,before the op amp upgrade it ran very cool,plan on letting it run for 4 days straight for the burn in period.

Great work!!! With a drilled cover like yours, heat should be no problem.

 

[naka9]

Hello to all

I am a recent user of the H10 and I need some assistance with the setting of my Gustard H10 headphone amplifier which I had recently fitted a pair or V5-OPA-D with the AD797 that I already had. I love the H10's sound with my Hifiman HE 400i and Parasound Dac.

I now want to try the balanced input (to use another DAC) and when I flip down both dip switches labeled as “unbalanced” I got no sound at all.
Am I wrong about the switches operation logic: UP is ON and DOWN is OFF?
If I want to use the XLR inputs all switches must be down, right?

I have fast-read all the hundred of pages of this thread but I have found no definitive answer on this subject... and can't find an instructions manual either.
Thanks in advance.

 

[VRacer-111]

Up would be balanced, down unbalanced. And make sure any DIP switching is done with the amp unpowered or you can damage it.

 

[naka9]

Ok thanks VRacer-111
My confusion has made when "unbalance" is marked UP that is the same direction as ON... but now I know that it is just an labeling error.

 

[naka9]

I forgot... I am using the +12 setting on the unbalanced set up... should I keep it? Try the +6?
Or turn down all gain DIP switches down?

 

[VRacer-111]

Either way (+12 or +6 gain) for the DIP switches is fine for the Burson opamps, really depends on headphones you use and amount of volume adjustment you want to have. Adjust accordingly. You don't want all the DIP switches down if you are using those Burson opamps as it will over-stress and fail them over time - they have to be used with either the +6 or +12 setting per direction from of Burson.

 

[naka9]

Understood . Thanks

 

[URNape2]

Hey y'all, I've been enjoying my H10 for some time now with the K702 Annies, but I have yet to purchase a DAC. I'm thinking about switching from cans to in-ear buds, but currently the best ones I have are the Etymotic HF5s. When I use those in the H10, I get a constant slight buzz, which at low volume can be very annoying. I'm wondering if this is perhaps something a good DAC would fix? I'm very new to audio gear, but picked up the H10 based on all the recommendations here and I love it, so thank you all for the great info! Cheers!

 

[fritobugger]

Hey y'all, I've been enjoying my H10 for some time now with the K702 Annies, but I have yet to purchase a DAC. I'm thinking about switching from cans to in-ear buds, but currently the best ones I have are the Etymotic HF5s. When I use those in the H10, I get a constant slight buzz, which at low volume can be very annoying. I'm wondering if this is perhaps something a good DAC would fix? I'm very new to audio gear, but picked up the H10 based on all the recommendations here and I love it, so thank you all for the great info! Cheers!

Have you reduced the gain on the H10 to -12? That might reduce the buzz. Can you borrow a DAC from someone to try out whether that will fix it? Is it possibly a ground loop issue? If so, try moving to a different power outlet.