My first Audio RPi Build
Goal: Use existing RPi and computer parts I had at home to build a Touchscreen DAP that can play upto 192/24 ALAC or FLAC files, and connect to Tidal.
Software: I selected MoOde as it worked with my equipment to include a Touchscreen, played 192/24 ALAC, could be controlled via a and could connect to Tidal and a NAS. MoOde is free, supported a wide variety of audio HAT (Hardware Attached on Top) boards, a dedicated forum, and had frequent and current updates. Note: I haven't gotten the Tidal and NAS features to work yet. But I'll post when/if I get this working.
Hardware:
1. I used a RPi 3B I had at home. You can get a Raspberry Pi 3B+ $35 online (MSRP don't pay more) or for $30 plus tax locally at Microcenter (if you are geographically blessed).
http://www.microcenter.com/product/505661/raspberry-pi-3-model-b The 3B+ is slightly faster than the RPi 3B I used.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi
2. Micro SD card: I used 2 Samsung micro SD cards.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/...ass-10---uhs-1-flash-memory-card-with-adapter This one is 10.99. Why two? Because at least with moOde you need a second microSD card inside an adapter attached via a USB port to update the software. Why Samsung (or Sandisk which is now owned by Western Digital), because a lot of other brands don't hold up and are much slower. 32Gb should be more than enough for the operating system and software (I'll check my install size tonight and post the minimum size required). Buyer beware there are a lot of counterfeit Samsung microSD cards out there especially in the large capacities. Don't buy a 128Gb microSD card and expect it to work in a RPi microSD card slot; odds are it will not. Only 64Gb and below are supposed to work, I found out the hard way two years ago. Learn from my mistake (and keep this in mind with any other projects because many devices other than RPis have a maximum supported SD card capacity).
3. Power supplies and cables I used microUSB cables and AC/DC transformers I had laying around. The pi 3 board needs 2.5 amps at 5V alone and the display and usb drive need dedicated cables at least 1amp 5V each. I’m still working out some kinks with power with mine, but for now I'm using an iPad AC/DC brick to power the RPi itself, and two 2.4amp USB power ports on a TrippLite power strip.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MCVOMFY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can go Cadillac power supply with the ifi iPower
https://www.amazon.com/iPower-Noise...&qid=1533232027&sr=1-1&keywords=ifi+ipower+5v You could just use what you have laying around, but you are likely to get "undervolt" warnings or have your Pi suddenly shut off. If you see a yellow lightning bolt on your Pi screen you're "undervolting." This can destroy/damage the RPi or the SDcard so don't do it long term. A good choice for power supply is the CanaKit powersupply or the Vilros powersupply:
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Rasp...&keywords=5v+power+supply&smid=A30ZYR2W3VAJ0A. A Vilros kit can be found at
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQFX4S...olid=148YFAYI8VM48&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
NOTE: Vilros, Canakit, and companies offer package kits like the one above with or without a RPi and many other parts. They can be cheaper than buying the parts separately just make sure your are getting things you actually need. Sometimes the power supplies are too cheap for audiophile use (noisey and underpowered) and the SD cards are generic and unreliable. The Vilros linked above has a good power adapter with an on off switch (based on specs, I don't own it), the newest RPi, and heat sinks (can't hurt to use but not absolutely necessary). I haven't found that particular power supply separately at a major retailer yet.
4. USB storage for music, I used a 4Tb Western Digital USB Hard Disk Drive I had. I haven't gotten the NAS ( I have a Synology) to work yet and local storage is easier regardless. I recommend Western Digital drives (its all I use). How much music do you want to store on the device? I recommend using a USB connected traditional portable HDD because they are relatively cheap, fast enough for this purpose (hosting ALAC/FLAC files), and last a long time. Alternately you could use a USB thumb stick type drive, but they can have a shorter life time.
5. Display: I used an official RPi 7" touch screen display I had. It or a like one runs $60 at microcenter (70 or more elsewhere)
http://www.microcenter.com/product/454804/7-pi-touchscreen-lcd-display
6. Case for display and pi. I used this which is 27.99 at Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Case-Officia...33223001&sr=8-6&keywords=raspberry+pi+display
7. I used a USB splitter for the hard drive to allows the usb drive to draw power externally and push data to pi without drawing power from the pi. A similar on costs $7 at Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1OIA/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1
8. Optional (but really advisable to have): External Keyboard and Mouse. I use this which is 25.99:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wir...rd_wg=iG98A&psc=1&refRID=B22KXXC2DDMJS3VDHVF6 Why, so you can type commands or enter fields in GUI. The alternative is to SSH in from a laptop or phone. SSHing is required to change some settings or to make updates. You can supply your own keyboard and mouse and I'll just use mine to build it if you like. I'll post more later on SSHing.
9. Optional: HATs too many to list here. Will do multiple posts later. For example a DAC HAT with RCA and/or XLR out. I haven't used one, but unless you want to go all out with an ApplePi ($199) i'd recommend picking one of the Hifiberries. at hifiberry.com For $40 you can get this:
https://www.hifiberry.com/shop/boards/hifiberry-dac-pro
Other HATs are available to amp speakers or perform just about any audio task you can think of. The only Hifi type hat I have is an old Cirrus Logic audio board that I haven't installed yet, the USB built in to my Mimby is working fine to my ear so far. I plan on building a RPi system similar to what I have here with the hifiberry linked above.
DIY Pros:
Get to learn about how audio and computers actually work.
Many options to pick from can customize to your particular needs.
Unlikely to need to do any soldering.
If a part breaks or is obsolete you can just replace the one part.
Storage is much much much cheaper, expandable, and is a non-limiting factor. No Apple phenomenon of outrageous prices for storage or the typical DAP issue of only having 4-64Gb internal storage, no expanding storage (looking at you Apple iPhone/pad and about half of daps), or only excepting about 64Gb of expanded storage. Since the pi and say MoOde is not storage speed sensitive you can use less expensive spinning disk hard disk drives. 192/24 FLAC or ALAC only needs about 20Mbps of speed.
DIY Cons:
Need knowledge of coding or at least the wiliness/aptitude to learn.
Time spent finding, assembling, installing OS, and configuring. (but hey your learning).
@Jason Stoddard will likely have some more comments on DIY soon. See his recent post on his Thread.
I'll try to post later tonight on the steps of the assembly and installing/configuring Moode.
