Grado SR80i's original plastic screens are a gong show to try and get out.
Dec 11, 2009 at 4:37 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 10

an otter

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[size=xx-small]I apologize in advance if this isn't the place to post this. I tried finding that giant Grado Mods thread but I was worried my issue would be lost to a sea of similar unanswered questions there.[/size]

So Skippy's bit with the Grado's plastic screen being easy to remove clearly does not apply to the i's. Although the spoon trick to separate the cans from the driver casings worked like a charm.

My first blowdryer quit on me (too hot) and the second didn't fare much better. It got to the point where the plastic screen became malleable, and I was able to push on it and have it flex, but the glue remained solid. Eventually I realized I was getting nowhere trying to coax it out with heat, and I got worried I may warp the cups given the soft state of the screens, so I took a pair of needlenoses to it.

It's a hack-job, and the bulk of the screens are out, but the bit around the insides of the cups where the screens were glued in remains; making for a rough, un-flush surface for the replacement screens that I'd like to put in.

I'm considering dremel'ing out the rest of that inner plastic ring, but I'm terrified at this point that I'll just do more damage than good. It's a cramped area with thin plastic. Plus grinding drum bits can't even get in at that angle!

Any suggestions on how to get out this remaining plastic/glue?

The glue holding the SR80 buttons to the original screens wouldn't even give, and after I had torn the screens out and just left the hairdryer on them it remained strong.

Ideas? :/
 
Dec 11, 2009 at 4:51 PM Post #3 of 10
Oh, and if acetone (nailpolish remover) is suggested to weaken the glue, I'm concerned the acetone would eat away at the plastic cups, plus I'm pretty sure that only applies to non-solidified super glue. If you can convince me otherwise I'd attempt it, but I unno.
 
Dec 11, 2009 at 6:37 PM Post #5 of 10
I unno, all of the other Google results for 'how to remove super glue from plastic?' suggest not using acetone, as it'll melt the plastic, so I'm skeptical.

These results are all for much smaller plastic materials like models and figurines it seems, and I think they're leaving their pieces in the acetone to sit, but I can't just run downstairs to my lathe and make myself a new set of cups so I think my concern is substantiated.

Have you any experience with acetone and plastic? :/
 
Dec 11, 2009 at 8:10 PM Post #7 of 10
I would not recommend acetone unless you are really careful because it will most likely degrade the plastic. The cups seem to be ABS, but even so most plastics are soluble in acetone.
 
Dec 11, 2009 at 8:14 PM Post #8 of 10
If you have the patients and want to try the acetone, try using a wooden toothpick. Dip the tip in the acetone and dab it on the glue. It might take some time, but you'll have control over the remover and can monitor the results easier. Use wood as it will absorb the solvent and will less likely drip on plastic parts.
 
Dec 11, 2009 at 8:26 PM Post #9 of 10
Same happened to me.I had to cut the plastic screen out with a craft knife and then fit the metal screen up to the remains.Looked fine from a distance,but in the end ,got some woodies from nickchen.Much nicer.
biggrin.gif

 
Dec 11, 2009 at 9:26 PM Post #10 of 10
Wallace up and ditching for woodies doesn't strike me with confidence in this procedure.

I'm going to try the Dremel and if I don't feel comfortable with how it's reacting, attempt the acetone. I'll report back with my results.

I have a local woodworking co-op on standby just in case.
 

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