[Lisa]

Hi,

I've received the Grados SR-60s and they are burning in as we speak.
(if you wanna know why I ordered the grados read this thread)

But I've got an small problem and hope that you guys can help me with it. When I'm wearing them the left speaker makes some noise when I move my head. I noticed that it are the wires inside the speakercan that make contact to the outside (What is it called "grid"?)of the can.

Is this normal for grado? Or is there something I can do about it? Should I ask for warrenty?
I've not dicided to keep em yet so I can always bring them back.

But can anyone shed some light on this please?

Lisa.

 

[Duncan]

Hi Lisa...

The Grados should have a cable tie about an inch away from the solder joints, you should be safe to pull (gently) on the cable until it won't come out of the driver assembly anymore... its at that point that either you're tugging on the solder (but you're doing so gently, so it won't hurt) or that the cable tie is sitting flush with the driver housing...

Fingers crossed...

 

[Lisa]

OK Duncan,

I've even tried some online translater but I seem to be stupid cause I still don't understand.

What you are saying is you pull on the cable so it comes out of the driver an inch. This is possible without harming it.
Is it so that you only see the cable on the outside of the driver?

I've done this and the cable just goes back into it's original position.

Did I understand you correctly? Just fiddly around with it gently and hope it'll go away?

 

[Rizumu]

Here's what you do Lisa. Rotate the cups to the right many times. This twists the cable and keeps it from moving around at where it connects to the cups. I think it's just poor design really.

 

[Lisa]

Rizumu,

Does that twist the wires inside the cups aswell?

 

[Duncan]

I'd be hesitant to do rizumus idea...

At the end of the day, if you twist the wire too much, and it breaks... bang goes the warranty...

but... there is definetly an end stop (even if it is only the solder) within the earcups, that stops the cable from snagging...

if this is placed too low on the cable, then you can send the 'phones back saying that you're not happy with the finish, and want another pair / refund... but if the cable is broken...

 

[Rizumu]

Just rotate the cups a bit. It doesn't twist the cable that much and won't break. sTaTIx recommended this to me and it's worked fine so far.

 

[Lisa]

Quote:

Originally posted by Duncan I'd be hesitant to do rizumus idea... At the end of the day, if you twist the wire too much, and it breaks... bang goes the warranty... but... there is definetly an end stop (even if it is only the solder) within the earcups, that stops the cable from snagging... if this is placed too low on the cable, then you can send the 'phones back saying that you're not happy with the finish, and want another pair / refund... but if the cable is broken...

You mean that if the wires in the earcups are too long so they touch the grid?

(is that the right word, grid?)

Is that what you mean by solder, the wires in the earcups?

Oh, and what is snagging?

 

[Hajime]

Quote:

Originally posted by Lisa You mean that if the wires in the earcups are too long so they touch the grid? (is that the right word, grid?) Is that what you mean by solder, the wires in the earcups? Oh, and what is snagging?

Lisa, what they're trying to say is that there is a little metal bump in the cord right inside the earcups. I'll attach a picture from Headwize to show you.

The cord can be pushed up and down a little inside the cup. If it's pushed up it can tap against the side and make noise. The soder is where the two metal contacts are sodered to the driver.

Edit: Snagging is where something gets caught. For instance, if the cord got caught on the edge of the hole.

 

[wallijonn]

Lisa,

the tie wrap inside the left earcup is probably rubbing against (what a strange word) something. try just putting a small piece of foam or cotton just inside the hole.

i usually just tell people to put a tie wrap just OUTSIDE the hole so that it puts greater pressure on the tie wrap on the inside. (taking up the slack). you can try a rubber band (tie it into a knot) or a sandwhich bad tie wrap or just about anything you have laying around (string, a small "O" ring which is cut on one side, etc.).

Hajime,

Good job.

 

[skippy]

it's not quite a metal bump. it's a plastic tie covered in hot glue. some times the plastic tie is hot glued to the earcup so that it doesn't move around inside the earcup. some times it isn't (or maybe the hot glue comes off the earcup). a dab of hot glue on the outside where the cable enters the earcup will solve the problem, as well as preventing other problems from occuring.

twisting the cable may not be the best idea, as the uninsulated section of the wires may touch and short out.

 

[kenchi1983]

wallijohn, cool, i havent thought about using a rubberband so the wires up and down as much. been using clear tape all along.


ummm, you can also unattach the hinges that connect to the cans....gently push one side of the clamps outward. Do this if the cans need unwinding. (when the wires look twirly.).

 

[Lisa]

Thanks for all the advise guys!

I was thinking of putting something in the hole on the driver side so the pastic or metal thingie would tilt towards the driver and away from the outside so it cannot touch it.

If that doesn't work I'll try some of your suggestions. I like the tie wrap idea. Should be easy to do with a small elastic rubber band.