Grado PS-1000 cable repair or re-cabling?
Jun 12, 2014 at 3:21 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 8

thomson

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I have a pair of (rather old) Grado PS-1000 that I really like but the other day, the sound from the right side started cutting out
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If I wiggle the cable close to the right ear cup back and forth a bit, I can get the sound back so I'm quite sure it's just a loose/broken cable and that some soldering probably would fix it.
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However, the driver is glued to the ear cup and even if I know that I would need to heat the glue, I'm a little bit hesitant to do this since I'm afraid to break something.
Moreover, I'm also not really sure what kind of glue I would use to put the driver back that would allow me to heat it up and fix it again (if needed)
 
I could of course try to send them to Grado but since the cable is a little bit too short for my taste, I was thinking that I might as well replace the cable while I'm at it so I started searching the internet but much to my surprise, I didn't find anything (or maybe I'm just bad at it) but in any case, there are plenty of re-cabled PS-1000s proving that the knowledge must be out there somewhere
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Thus, if anyone could be so kind to share some simple instructions on how to remove and replace the drivers on the PS-1000, I would be eternally grateful (or at least for as long as the new cable lasts)
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Jun 12, 2014 at 3:34 PM Post #2 of 8

uglyjoe0124

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Hi
I've got some HF2 cans which have a mahogoney insert which is guess is the same as the PS-1000
Just slowly slice around the driver through the glue and slowly remove the glue as you go.
I will slowly expose some little slots which will take a very small flat head driver.
Slide the driver in the slot and twist it to break the seal with the glue.
Slowly ease the driver out with the screw driver.you will probably find that you will have to do this very gently
In all four slots so that you remove the driver equally in each slot.
Ur heart will pump like mad when ur doing it but once it's been done it's really easy.
Just try not to break the wooden lip.
Pm ur stuck and I'll send some pics if u like
Good luck
 
Jun 12, 2014 at 3:52 PM Post #3 of 8

elmoe

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Use a hair dryer against the metal cup to melt the glue, then gently pull the cup from the driver. Then you can reheat the cup and use the original glue again.
 
Jun 12, 2014 at 4:03 PM Post #4 of 8

uglyjoe0124

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Hmmmm you would end up cracking the wood and ruining the driver.unless u have heat gun/ paint stripper u wouldn't get the glue to melt.your in with a good chance of discolurisation lol
It can be done very neatly with a a sharpe blade or scalpel
 
Jun 12, 2014 at 4:39 PM Post #5 of 8

elmoe

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Its a tried and true method that many people have used. Its also the safest. And yes, the glue will melt just fine.
 
Jun 13, 2014 at 1:34 AM Post #6 of 8

thomson

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Thanks elmoe and uglyjoe for the replies. I now feel much more confident to give it a go!
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I have a temperature controlled heat gun so I think I will remove a small piece of glue and then heat it up slowly until i find the lowest temperature where it melts.
In this way, the risk for discoloration or ruining the driver should be minimized.
 
Unfortunately I will not have time to do this weekend so I will have to put this on old for a week or so.
 
Anyway, I will make sure to post the results here!
 
Thanks again guys!
 
Jun 17, 2014 at 12:09 PM Post #7 of 8

HiGHFLYiN9

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It sounds like you have a safe method set up, however, I'd personally send them to Grado. They have a special oven that slowly melts the glue to prevent any chance of driver damage. Pricing is very reasonable for repairs. The PS-1000s are legendary, would not want to see you inadvertently damage them and not be able to source a replacement driver. Seems like the risk outweighs the small amount of funds required for the repair. 
 
Jul 10, 2014 at 9:16 AM Post #8 of 8

thomson

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HiGHFLYiN9, yes, I have considered sending them to Grado, but I live in Sweden and as far as I know, Grado doesn't have a service center here. Sending them abroad (or overseas), will also be quite costly (since I have to send them insured). Anyway, I haven't had the time (or the courage) to try to fix them myself yet, so let's see. Either way, I'll update this thread with any progress... Thanks.
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