Grado Modders Go Nhoord?!?!
Nov 29, 2017 at 9:40 PM Post #361 of 597
With the extremely helpful and informative guidance, kind assistance, and wonderful workmanship of @DavidA @fleasbaby @javburg I successfully completed my Nhoord Red v2 build! Many thanks gents!

Well, they sound amazing! I am extremely pleased with the sound thus far and the comfort is out of this world whether fitted with the L or G-Cush pads. I still haven't decided which pad I like best. These headphones are light as a feather.

DRIVER: Nhoord Audio Red v2 (32Ω; 95dB/1mW; 46mm Diameter)
DRIVER DUST SCREEN: Nhoord Audio (White)
CUP: Wabi Sabi Headphones RS1 Clone (Walnut)
CUP DAMPENING MATERIAL: Dynamat Xtreme
CUP/DRIVER CABLE & CONNECTOR TYPE: SMC w/ SPC Cable
CABLE I: HiFiMAN OCC Balanced 4-pin XLR (4-pin XLR to 6.35mm TRS Headphone Plug Adapter)
CABLE II: Arakawa Mogami W2893 Unbalanced 3.5mm TRS (Black Carbon Fiber Y-Splitter)
EAR PAD I: Generic G-cush
EAR PAD II: Grado L-cush
HEADBAND: Sony MDR-7502
HEADBAND PADDING: Sennheiser KP-PX100/200/250
ADDITIONAL: Akust Heat-Shrinkable Tubing 2.0 (Black); Loctite Super Glue Gel; 3M Electrical Tape (Black); 60/40 Lead Solder
 
Nov 29, 2017 at 10:04 PM Post #363 of 597
Not much of an audiophile but here it goes...

Generic G-cush = slightly lower bass; more refined bass details but less refined mids/highs than the L.

Grado L-cush = mids and high are clearer, especially vocals, seem to be ever so slightly more refined but with weaker, less prominent bass than heard with the G.

Comfort wise I am finding merits to both but beginning to lean towards the G for very long listening sessions.

Must note that my cans are extremely light weight (like feathers) and have no clamp effect like normal Grado headbands due to my usage of a Sony MDR-7502 headband which doesn't look as sexy but is robust, low profile, and comfortably light. The use of this headband has a direct effect on how the pads perform and seal on the ears.
 
Last edited:
Nov 29, 2017 at 10:10 PM Post #364 of 597
How would you describe the difference in sound signature between the two pads?
@WoodyLuvr build will sound quite similar to the "Scarlet" that you heard but with slightly less but more detailed/clean bass and the headband is similar to the MDR-7506 that was on the "Scarlet" but with slightly less clamping force so this might affect the sound since the pads will be compressed at different amounts.
 
Nov 30, 2017 at 10:16 PM Post #365 of 597
Very interesting. I'll have to try the G-cush with the Magnum again. When I used them, the bass on the Magnum sounded worse. Interesting how different drivers and set-ups react differently.

I think I would benefit from a slightly tighter seal on my modded 225 also, but my impression of them is the same as yours in regards to comfort - just outstanding, so light and comfy.

Thanks for the responses, much appreciated.
 
Dec 1, 2017 at 3:00 AM Post #366 of 597
I think I would benefit from a slightly tighter seal on my modded 225 also, but my impression of them is the same as yours in regards to comfort - just outstanding, so light and comfy.

Thanks for the responses, much appreciated.
You're welcome :wink:
Fortunately, the lighter seal sounds perfectly fine with my Nhoords. I have tried lightly pressing them down on my ears to stimulate heavier clapping with absolutely no improvement or change in the sound.
 
Dec 3, 2017 at 6:25 AM Post #367 of 597
@capnjack, you might want to try other 3.5mm jacks that have a larger opening so you don't have to use heat shrink to scale it down. The 3.5mm jack from Double-Helix is not bad and most Eidolic jacks offer a slightly larger cable opening as well. You might also want to use heat shrink on the runs from the splitter but try to find heat shrink tubing that is either thinner or when using a heat gun to stretch it a little so the covering is slightly thinner. To make the process of stretching the heat shrink I use some hot glue to keep the tubing from sliding when I heat it and try to do it a small section at a time so I can keep the over all thickness constant.

Rean do the plugs with 4.5,6,8mm opening I’ve now found! So I’m sorted now! Thanks all the same @DavidA
 
Dec 6, 2017 at 9:49 AM Post #373 of 597
I have posted this question before but I am extremely curious in hearing what other owners of the DIY Driver Family (Nhoord Audio, Elleven Acoustica, Symphones/Rhydon, and Turbulent Lab) are using (or have used) for amplification, if any.

Myself, with my Nhoord Audio Red v2s, I am using an AudioQuest DragonFly Black (DFB) and have compared my DFB with the following amps/dacs with no replacement yet:

AQ DragonFly Red (DFR): too much gain and power; too bright and sibilant; difficult to set the volume at a lower listening level

Audeze Deckard: once the volume is set the same, DAC wise I am unable to distinguish the difference between the Deckard or even the Benchmark DAC3 from my DragonFly Black but precise lower volume adjustment is possible with either the Audeze or Benchmark, however nothing uniquely different and/or improved from my DFB.

Benchmark DAC3: same as the Deckard on all accounts

Meier Audio Corda Classic-ff and Jazz: very nice amps; great volume control; crossfeed is notable but I am able to nearly simulate/match this crossfeed sound/feature perfectly via the Case Meier Crossfeed component in Foobar2K (set at 15-18) so these amps don’t offer anything more over the DFB to justify their purchase.

TEAC HA-501: sounded fine but nothing dramatically different from my DFB just slightly more volume.

TEAC UD-301: nice sound but nothing uniquely better than my DFB; preferred the LME49860, MUSES8820, and NE5532 op amps over the stock PCM1795 op amps… with any of these op amps the TEAC UD-301 and Fostex HP-A3 sound identical.

Fostex HP-A3: again, nice sound but nothing uniquely better than my DFB; lesser build quality than the TEAC but damn the Fostex’s volume control/knob was magical (super smooth; the best of all); better sounding (w/ stock op amp) than the TEAC UD-301 (w/ stock op amp). Preferred the LME49860, MUSES8820, and NE5532 op amp over the stock OPA2134 op amp.

Audio-gd R/2R-11: very nice amp but doesn't pair well with my Nhoords; too much power and gain so not much volume play on the lower end.​

Thus far, I haven't found anything that is dramatically better than my DFB. Would like to give the controversial Grado RA-1 Head Amp a listen to one day to see how well it pairs with my Nhoords as it is highly recommended by many Grado RS-1/RS-2 owners which are similar in sound to my Nhoords.


@capnjack recommendations for and/or amps used with his Nhoords:
Today I’ve been alternating between my mojo and my little dot mk2 :wink:
I actually quite like them with my Askewlabs cMoy bb too


@DavidA recommendations for and/or amps used with his Nhoords:
In addition to the UD-301 I've been using Xonar DG and DGX sound cards, Fiio X3 and X3ii DAPs, Bimby/UD-301 + Lyr2/Ember and a Teac AH-01. About the only amp that I don't use with the Nhoord is the BH Crack (bad pairing IMO) and Asgard2 (in the bedroom where I don't listen much)

@Mshenay recommendations for and/or amps used with his Nhoords:
... ...Thankfully the Nhoord Red V1 pairs well with my GO v2+, the two really synergize together. I lucked out on that!... ...unlike the Nhoord Red V1 which get's too syrupy with warmer sounding gear
 
Last edited:
Dec 7, 2017 at 8:31 AM Post #374 of 597
20hrs to go :wink:

Burn baby burn!!!!!
 
Dec 8, 2017 at 4:03 PM Post #375 of 597
I found that my Nhoord Infra, or Scarlett if you prefer, sounds better to me with Grado L cushions.

They are housed in a maple GS1000 style set of cups from Fleasbaby. I tried them with G-Cush, but it was quite a few weeks back. I plan on doing a more exhaustive comparison of the cushions soon. I'll post what I find here.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top