[fleasbaby]

Hi, what kind of Glue is used to fix the plastic driver into the wood cup?
Wood glue? Any recommendations ? I would like to use something that would be easy to remove if needed.
Thanks!

 
I use this stuff wrapped around the driver....provides a great snug fit:
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8694k112/=wv1z52

 

[fadhlysb]

 Originally Posted by kyrian 

Hi, what kind of Glue is used to fix the plastic driver into the wood cup?
Wood glue? Any recommendations ? I would like to use something that would be easy to remove if needed.
Thanks!

i used uhu tac patafix for mine.. it works pretty well

 

[fadhlysb]

  It has been a long time since I started this thread. Coming from the Grado modding crowd I took interest in the Magnums, then V4s, since the drivers were freely available, came at an acceptable price, and could be used in all sorts of housings. I then proceeded into the planar world, among others, and sold my Magnums, since I ultimately found them too shouty and lacking comfort.
 
By accident I again took some interest in these types of drivers, doing work on some used SR125i and now Turbulent V5 drivers. I am also using a kind of DIY hybrid GradoBeyer pad, for which I am using some L-cushs (cut to shape)  and Beyerdynamic DT25 pads on top.
 
In addition I have been using my measurement rig (calibrated mic, flat coupler, no compensation) in order to "verify" my mods. Below I am sharing my V5 measurements and mods.
 
 
Stock Turbulent V5 drivers, in a Grado wood cup, open back:

 
 
Finished headphone, black ebony cups with black and white ebony nuance, closed:

 
Cup and driver

 
Driver in rosewood inner sleeve, GradoBeyer pad

 
Measurement of the finished headphone, closed cup, internal damping. Very neutral sounding.

 
Internal damping change, a little less distorion in the mids. Very nice sounding, clean and fast.

wow, that is amazing
can you teach me how do you make those pads??

 

[stratocaster]

  wow, that is amazing
can you teach me how do you make those pads??

 
It's easy: Cut off around 5-7mm from the top of the Grado L-cush and glue the remaining cush on the back of the Beyerdynamic Dt250 pad.

 

[fadhlysb]

   
It's easy: Cut off around 5-7mm from the top of the Grado L-cush and glue the remaining cush on the back of the Beyerdynamic Dt250 pad.

hmm.. did you use any hard foam board for it? and why cut L cush instead of using S cush?

 

[stratocaster]

L-cush has different foam density and helps the Beyer pad keep the right distance from the driver! It's JUST 2 thirds of the L-cush glued to the back of the Beyer pad. Did LOTS of experiments (plus measurements), and this is just the right setup.

 

[fadhlysb]

ok! thanks a lot man! i will definitely try it!! 

 so you really don't use any hard foam for it like those modders who use the dt770 pads huh..

 

[stratocaster]

GradoMagnums have a mid-bass hump and serious bass roll-off, combined with elevated higher frequencies. The reason for this is the foam pads that let too much bass energy pass through. But if you use velour or leather pads, there is simply too much mid bass. The solution is to combine both materials. As a result there will be less of a mid-bass hump and there will be better bass extension (resulting from velour pads AND internal damping, which in effect turns these into semi-open headphones). In addition, if you put a thin layer of felt in front of the driver, you will end up with an astonishingly flat frequency response.

 

[fadhlysb]

hmm wouldn't doing the internal damping caused the headphone to be less airy? will it effect the soundstage?

 

[stratocaster]

  hmm wouldn't doing the internal damping caused the headphone to be less airy? will it effect the soundstage?

No, it won't be less airy. The damping is affecting the mid-bass and midrange mostly. The higher frequencies providing air will not be affected, really. In fact you may even have to bring them down a bit (felt in front of the driver), because the masking effect of the mid-bass hump will be gone. The result is a very balanced sound, the Grado shout is eliminated and the headphones will sound a lot more neutral.

 

[fadhlysb]

ok.. how do you do the internal damping properly? i haven't found much article about doing an internal damping..

 tho i found some people use felt or foam inside the headphone to do it

 

[stratocaster]

You have to dampen the backwave of the driver by placing some absorbing/reflective material behind it. With this setup I am using three layers: some damping paper like coffee filter paper and over it a 5mm-layer of compressed cotton (both in the shape of a horseshoe, which has to cover the venting holes around the magnet). Finally, I use a disc of  about 2cm of open-cell foam, which is compressed when you close the cup and which presses the damping paper and cotton against the back of the driver.

 

[fadhlysb]

hmmi do like the idea of doing so.. but i don't think my current cup wouldn't be able to hold that much of dampening... then again will only doing the pads is a good idea or is it that you have to go all the way for it to works?

 

[stratocaster]

What cup have you got, wood or plastic? Anyway, the paper plus cotton is rather thin and if you have a shallow cup, you can keep the open-cell foam disc just thick enough to exert some pressure of paper and cotton against the driver. But, the damping is absolutely necessary, there is no way around it. I had the damping in my SR325 cup and it worked just fine.

 

[fadhlysb]

i have wooden cup that roughly have the same size of the grado's stock plastic cup but the grills are deeper than the stock ones