Grado modders go Magnum
Dec 5, 2011 at 6:57 PM Post #441 of 4,982

dgcrane

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Hi Sluker,
 
I actually picked them up at a local Canadian machine supply shop... I think the price was less than a buck each and there was no minimum to buy. I think I bought 8 of em.... but have a couple of different pairs with them on now. I believe they are also available on amazon.
 
Darren
 
 
Quote:
May i ask where you got the lockrings? I have only been able to find the 1/4 size at my hardware store and they can't get them smaller.
 


 



 
 
Dec 5, 2011 at 7:52 PM Post #442 of 4,982

sluker

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Thanks, I just found them and ordered a bunch. I was looking for rod collars and found nothing  but they came up as shaft collars. 
Quote:
Hi Sluker,
 
I actually picked them up at a local Canadian machine supply shop... I think the price was less than a buck each and there was no minimum to buy. I think I bought 8 of em.... but have a couple of different pairs with them on now. I believe they are also available on amazon.
 
Darren
 
 


 



 
 
Dec 6, 2011 at 5:12 AM Post #443 of 4,982

glenda

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Ok I am still at a bit of a loss for woody Magnum V2 325is,  I have been in contact with Martins and will probably go that direction.  Unfortunately I don't have a pair of any other stock Grados to look at so am a little lost in the communication and thought to post this here for advice.   Years ago I had a pair of woodied MS1's that were done by Jmooney,  they were an incredible upgrade,  probably better than the MS-Pros I owned,  but if I remember right and this is vague they would fit a magnum.
 
Anyway with the woodified 325is Magnums I am confused.  
 
I am thinking there are two ways to do this (see picture):
 
A:   Remove the magnum driver with the setscrews and buy a wood cup that replaces all the unpainted aluminum.  (see picture arrow A)
 
B:   Buy cups that are cut where the big aluminum sleeve goes in (picture arrow B),  to install I assume I would remove the drivers and heat up the aluminum then separate the halves.  Then I would press the wood cup back onto the sleeve and put the drivers back in via the set-screws.  So it would really be about half wood, half aluminum (the outer half wood.)
 

 
 
 
I guess my concern with option A is it would seem the driver would be difficult to firmly mount,  and I would be giving up one of the advantages of the magnums being a solid resonance free mount.
 
With method B,  I would still have the advantage of the Magnum but lighter weight and possibly better wood tone but the disadvantage is not as much wood tone as method A.  Am I correct that a generic wood cup would be method A?
 
What I can't figure out is does anyone do option B ?   And if not how to you ensure a proper driver fitment/mount using option A?
 
Last which would folks recommend? 
 
Dec 6, 2011 at 6:16 AM Post #444 of 4,982

Chris_Himself

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Martin's cups fit flush... they pop right in and never come out.. thats why we've never had to bother with set screws.
 
Dec 6, 2011 at 10:41 AM Post #448 of 4,982

Chris_Himself

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Quote:
but there are so many questions still.......does the species of wood matter?.........does the wood inner air chamber/aluminum outer shell combo sound different than a 1-piece full wood house?.........well, I guess just two questions -but they are big ones............ I suspect the aluminum glued over an inner wood shell is different, maybe damping some vibrations compared to a full wood cup which I can imagine resonating freely which is not usually a good thing in audio applications. But a full wood house would still have plenty of assets due to what it does to tone, so It's probably a more musical solution at least than aluminum or metal. Again these are just ideas, backed up a little by comparisons between metal housed 325's vs wood housed hf2's, but there are other variables at play between those two so, still not very scientific. Hopefully through all of us experimenting we can come to some kind of consensus about the affect of cups............As long as magnums quit changing versions, we can have a constant variable to play with and just focus on cups as the alternating variable.................


1) Species of wood. As a guy who hangs out with drummers yeah, but for a small headphone cup for a small drive I have no idea. Yes it does matter what setup you get and I'm sure even down to the shape, thats why I don't trust cups that aren't RS-1 shaped since I know that particular shape works wellf or me and I don't exactly have 150+ bucks to gamble with haha... so far Mahogany has worked for me although that Amboyna or the Ebony would drive me crazy just staring at it all day!
 
2) Aluminum is more analytical than the wood I think... from the information I've gathered from everybody the SR-325 can be more articulate but the RS-2/RS-1 has deeper bass and sounds more "organic" which can only be from the wood housings sort of changing the tone of your sound.
 
Also yeah if you were to get the full wood cup.. everything backwards of the driver is wood.. it gets held in place by a lip that is a part of the wood and everything fits very flush. I've witnessed this firsthand with Marty's stuff so I can guarantee his stuff is rock solid.
 
Dec 6, 2011 at 10:42 AM Post #449 of 4,982

chrislangley4253

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Quote:
Martin's cups fit flush... they pop right in and never come out.. thats why we've never had to bother with set screws.


he also makes slip ons.. He does both methods.
 


Quote:
but there are so many questions still.......does the species of wood matter?.........does the wood inner air chamber/aluminum outer shell combo sound different than a 1-piece full wood house?.........well, I guess just two questions -but they are big ones............ I suspect the aluminum glued over an inner wood shell is different, maybe damping some vibrations compared to a full wood cup which I can imagine resonating freely which is not usually a good thing in audio applications. But a full wood house would still have plenty of assets due to what it does to tone, so It's probably a more musical solution at least than aluminum or metal. Again these are just ideas, backed up a little by comparisons between metal housed 325's vs wood housed hf2's, but there are other variables at play between those two so, still not very scientific. Hopefully through all of us experimenting we can come to some kind of consensus about the affect of cups............As long as magnums quit changing versions, we can have a constant variable to play with and just focus on cups as the alternating variable.................



Maybe you can answer those questions. I went full aluminum, myself. Any reason why you want to get rid of the aluminum? You paid dearly for those inners at one point. I could have had two cups turned out for the price that I paid to go aluminum, I sure hope it doesn't turn out that wood is nicer for some reason.
 

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