Did you reglue the drivers back in place, or do they just rest in place in the cups?
Got it all back together last night and it feels like a weight off my shoulders both figuratively and literally.
Couple of warnings for those who would like to attempt this:
1. the hemp is essentially a fiberboard and is very fragile. I used a new set of bits and increased the hole diameter by minor increments but still had some of the Hemp material fray/pull out of the cup housing. I even taped around the housing...but its light and fragile stuff
1a. I filled in the areas with wood shavings and a good quality clear wood glue - actually turned out really nice and is hard to notice (the unique coloration is also helpful in hiding defects!)
1b. If I were to do it again, I would place the cups in a vise to keep pressure on the housing while drilling.
2. I chose HD800 sockets due to their small size and limited amount of drilliing needed but boy are those suckers tough to solder too. The barrel solder pins are probably meant for 30guage wire...but since I wanted to use the stock Grado wire (which is around 24/26 guage I had to do some work to slim it down to fit. I should have taken some pictures of the soldering, but I did not think of it until I had already applied the shrink tube and I was not going back.
2a I probably should have just used the 3.5mm sockets I had on hand for this mod, and would do so in the future.
2b I have some Grado Whites coming and wonder if I should do the same?!?!
I am more than happy with the way this mod turned out and hope that Grado will at some point consider doing this across the line. Probably want to use 3.5 mm plugs instead of HD800, but I really wanted to use the Campfire and Wywires cables that I already have.
Note: I was surprised how easy it was to remove the drivers after hearing others concerns over melting drivers or ruining the headphones. I simply removed as much glue as I could see with a razor/scalpel, then gently warmed with a hair dryer driver side down and they pulled right out. The hemp wood composite transfers heat energy pretty easily and warmed up enough with only a few minutes of heat.
Question now is whether I should replace the stock gimbals and stop blocks with black alum. or satin alum to go with the coffee leather headstrap that is on its way...What do you all think?
The government will refund the customs and tax. I got a refund when I returned a camera lens. This should start you off:
The Hemp is the only current model that has some resemblance to the original Joseph Grado sound. It’s the only one voiced to be used with the original flat pads but is probably closer to the original RS1 than the HP1000.
I used hotglue to reseal the drivers into the cups. They were very loose without the glue and just fell out without any force otherwise.
there were prestige models that using the same driver as hp1000, sr100, sr200, and sr300. and i believe some of the first sr325(black) also using that blackstar driver
if i ever going to mod grado, that's definitely the connector i'm going to choose, it just looks really cleanIf you're "planning on doing some comparisons with GS3000e" how do you already know "once done the GS2000e will be sold"?
+1
I did this to my vintage Rs1. The only occasional annoyance is that the aftermarket hd800 female connectors tend to be a bit loose fitting and any (hd800 style) cable I plug in my occasionally slip out! Have you noticed this on yours?
Got it all back together last night and it feels like a weight off my shoulders both figuratively and literally.
Couple of warnings for those who would like to attempt this:
1. the hemp is essentially a fiberboard and is very fragile. I used a new set of bits and increased the hole diameter by minor increments but still had some of the Hemp material fray/pull out of the cup housing. I even taped around the housing...but its light and fragile stuff
1a. I filled in the areas with wood shavings and a good quality clear wood glue - actually turned out really nice and is hard to notice (the unique coloration is also helpful in hiding defects!)
1b. If I were to do it again, I would place the cups in a vise to keep pressure on the housing while drilling.
2. I chose HD800 sockets due to their small size and limited amount of drilliing needed but boy are those suckers tough to solder too. The barrel solder pins are probably meant for 30guage wire...but since I wanted to use the stock Grado wire (which is around 24/26 guage I had to do some work to slim it down to fit. I should have taken some pictures of the soldering, but I did not think of it until I had already applied the shrink tube and I was not going back.
2a I probably should have just used the 3.5mm sockets I had on hand for this mod, and would do so in the future.
2b I have some Grado Whites coming and wonder if I should do the same?!?!
I am more than happy with the way this mod turned out and hope that Grado will at some point consider doing this across the line. Probably want to use 3.5 mm plugs instead of HD800, but I really wanted to use the Campfire and Wywires cables that I already have.
Note: I was surprised how easy it was to remove the drivers after hearing others concerns over melting drivers or ruining the headphones. I simply removed as much glue as I could see with a razor/scalpel, then gently warmed with a hair dryer driver side down and they pulled right out. The hemp wood composite transfers heat energy pretty easily and warmed up enough with only a few minutes of heat.
Question now is whether I should replace the stock gimbals and stop blocks with black alum. or satin alum to go with the coffee leather headstrap that is on its way...What do you all think?
