Separate names with a comma.
o.k., you can also confirm that the GS3000e is also better in bass than the GS1000i, as it is described by mortcola?
While he makes many goid observations and points,
point #4 seems to be dismissing that cables can make
any real meaningful improvement - while of course some are
extremely high priced and likely. bad investments for most
typical systems, changing my generic micro USB cable
to a Curious Hugo Link vastly improved everything,
it was like upgrading a good midfi amp to a very high end one
(using. Chird Mojo). Before the upgrade my Gradio 225e’s were nicer
to listen to than my GS1000i’s - because the latter were better
revealing deficiencies due to the generic cable. Now, with the
better USB cable, the GS1000i sounds much better than the 225e,
and both headphones have never sounded better, I greatly enjoy both.
So while he makes some great observations I think
there is some overstatement here.
Also, his criticism of younger people’s enjoyment of music
as mere casual entertainment is due to an obvious
general cultural shift where (generally) few actually pay sustained,
for any/most creative expression or art,
(reading and visual art included) as the internet together with today’s tech
makes most things so easily and instantly available, so why bother
cultivating deep appreciation? Some exceptions of course,
such as (likely) most on this forum.
you're going to love this one then (same author)
He sounds like an indignant, angry guy. Many of his points are easily refuted.
This is what happens when theory overtakes experience.
For example, that better USB (or ethernet)
cables can obviously improve a worthwhile
system is considered hogwash by the “it’s only 1’s and 0’s” crowd”.
Listening instead of theorizing easily and quickly reveals the truth.
Regarding the cabling issue, he's referring to analog cables mostly if I'm not mistaken. In that case, it is basic physics of a transmission line that the RLC of a cable can affect sound (the lower of each of the resistance [impedance in the case of an alternating current musical signal], the closest to the true source sound). Guess what a crossover network in a speaker consists of? Resistors (R), inductors (L), and capacitors (C). Crossovers PURPOSELY alter the signal by shifting the highpass or lowpass cutoffs of the signal. While that can be desirable for some people by "adding presence/detail", typically that means there is some capacitance in the cable that is acting as a high-pass network and stripping the lows, altering the signal and is no longer "pure". Another thing that people ignore in this regard is crossovers don't JUST change the frequency response, they change the PHASE angle of the signal! A typical 1st order crossover (RC network, 6dB per octave) changes the signal by 90*. A 2nd order, 180*, 3rd order, 270, etc.. So if your (analog) transmission cables have significant enough R, L, or C to audibly change the sound to where it's noticeable to you, two things:
Already, it isn't a faithful reproduction of what the artist and mastering engineers were aiming for since the sound is now colored
You have messed up the phase of your signal -- not sure how much of the bandwidth is affected, but again it's not "pure" to the source.
Whether or not this sounds enjoyable to you is debatable, but I took it as paying $5000 for a cable because the store said it increases "clarity" is pure, utter B.S. Because it is! You can buy 14 gauge Romex used for in wall household wiring right up to your speaker, then build a tiny crossover and it will have a similar effect.
As for digital sources like USB or HDMI, coaxial SPDIF and what not -- there is a lot more of the digital stuff involved that is over my head. But I know shielding and having a solid electrical contact is increasingly important with increased distance runs.
I think he's so angry sounding because he's been in the audio field for DECADES and has seen first hand how easily people get swayed by marketing, making decisions based purely on good marketing and "reviews" in sponsored hi-fi magazines and articles written by sponsored authors.
Has someone compared the GH2, the new Grado White and the HF3?
Sounds the White better than all?
Not heard the Grado White, but had the GH1 and GH2...sold both of them as they were not different enough from the RS2e to keep. Have recently got the HF3 and am liking it...a bit more bass than the RS2e. To my ears, this group of Grado's are pretty similar...RS2e-GH1-GH2-HF3..I am sure to some that the differences between them are notable. I would guess that my hearing limits my ability to detect subtle differences. The diference in bass between the RS2e and HF3 is something I can hear, though. Also, it has been over a year since I have had the GH1 and GH2. But, through this journey, the RS2e have been the constant.
I have the GH2 and will be getting the HF3 as part of Todd's loaner program in a couple weeks. I've put probably 5+ hours a day on my GH2 in the past few weeks and I'm guessing the HF3 will be broken in by the time it gets here (I'm the last leg I believe). So I will post a review and quick comparison of the two when I'm done.
I've never come across the White one yet though!
There are people in this thread who claim the GH2 and GH4 are virtually indistinguishable.
My personal experience is that the GH4 and RS2e are slightly different (more bass on GH4, more detailed treble on RS2e). I may prefer either depending on mood, music and ancillaries.
I got both the HF3 and the GH2 right before writing that comparison, I guess about 6 weeks ago now.
How is the gs2000e come up against ps1000e?
Who is talking about buying a $5,000 cable? My Curious cost me $125 and made a world of difference, it wasn't subtle.
Also, I've heard a stock generic ethernet cable swapped out in a high end system
for a Nordost $300 one, night and day difference.
Sure, there is B.S. in this field, but there are also very large upgrades to be had in many decent systems upgrading
from stock to reasonably priced upgrades, like the ones I mentioned here. Not subtle, big improvements for not much!
So back on topic, I don't wanna tear into or modify my current cans, but wouldn't mind playing around with or experimenting with one of the plastic Prestige series.
Scanning eBay, I see a bunch of SR60s and SR80s of various series, mostly the original (non "i") and the "e" series. As much as I've heard great things about the 125 and 225 line, I don't think I'd like to spend $100+ just to possibly break them haha. What model do you think would be the best starting point? Not looking to build the best sounding one, just tinker with the sound. If the SR60 and SR80 have the same drivers it would make sense to just use the 60 since it's the cheapest, right?
I know their is a whole Grado modders thread and don't wanna derail, but curious. If this is the wrong place to ask, I apologize!