good cd-r's?
Mar 31, 2004 at 4:15 PM Post #16 of 40

Mr.PD

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Quote:

Originally posted by Chinchy
Weren't the Verbatim black vinyl-look cd-r's supposed to be good? Darnit they'd better be because I bought 2 50pk spindles.. Hm, mine say Made in Taiwan on the label...


I've had very good luck using the vinyl CD-Rs. I like them a lot. But, they aren't cheap. My cake box of them says made in Taiwan. I also have a 50 pack of TDK 40X , Memorex black 32X and 48X and I have a few Memorex black 16X still left. Plus another 50 pack of TDK 40X that is unopened. I think everything I have was made in Tiawan. Although I can't be positive about the TDKs because part of the label is missing, for a rebate.
 
Mar 31, 2004 at 6:03 PM Post #17 of 40

pedxing

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I always get confused with green and cyanine (me stupid).

Well, if you really need to know who made your blanks, there are programs that can scan the ATIP on the blank CD and tell give you some info. Nefor Infotool can do this (although I found it be limited use with my blanks saying unknown with half the data fields).

Talking about CD-R drives, certain CD-R burners may work better with other brands of CD-R media. There have been reviews where the liteon DVD burner would miserably fail with Taiyo Yuden CD-R's. But I have to agree that getting a good burner is very important. A crappy burner will just produce coasters, harder to read data CD's, and audio CD's that sound funny. For example, my mom's samsung CD burner just naturally removes all high frequency data while copying the CD. I have tried various CD burning software including Nero burning and Sonic. I find my ancient SCSI 4x plextor to be very reliable.

I think the whole quality issue is driven about readability (less errors and faster throughput) and life span of the CD-R (how quickly it degrades before it becomes unreadable). It would be inconvenient to read a three year old CD-R and found out the dye has decomposed.
 
Mar 31, 2004 at 6:49 PM Post #18 of 40

Thrasher

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Quote:

Originally posted by pedxing
For example, my mom's samsung CD burner just naturally removes all high frequency data while copying the CD.


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Oh come on! You can't be serious!?!
 
Mar 31, 2004 at 9:17 PM Post #21 of 40

Thrasher

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I also recommend Taiyo Yuden, but be sure to get the ones with protective layer (for example sold under different brands), I would avoid the bulk version, because you might lose your data more easily.
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Lately I have been using these and I have very good experience with them:

Verbatim_Pastel80_40x_CD_Blue.jpg
 
Apr 1, 2004 at 2:31 AM Post #22 of 40

Trawlerman

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I usually use Imations. The local Morrisons supermarket sells 3 boxes of 10 for £10 which is pretty reasonable for branded discs in jewel cases.

However, because of a change in my financial situation i've started buying no-name spindles of 25 for a fraction of the price of Imations. I haven't seen much difference to be honest.

I'll probably go back to Imations when i get back into work just to be on the safe side.
 
Apr 1, 2004 at 9:37 AM Post #23 of 40

Thrasher

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Quote:

Originally posted by Trawlerman
I usually use Imations. The local Morrisons supermarket sells 3 boxes of 10 for £10 which is pretty reasonable for branded discs in jewel cases.

However, because of a change in my financial situation i've started buying no-name spindles of 25 for a fraction of the price of Imations. I haven't seen much difference to be honest.

I'll probably go back to Imations when i get back into work just to be on the safe side.


If I remember correct, Imation media use CMC Magnetics manufactured discs and -- as someone already stated here -- they are considered to be crap.
 
Apr 1, 2004 at 12:55 PM Post #25 of 40

Trawlerman

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Quote:

Originally posted by Thrasher
If I remember correct, Imation media use CMC Magnetics manufactured discs and -- as someone already stated here -- they are considered to be crap.


Maybe but quite often it's all I can lay hands on.

Stuff in the UK is a good deal more expensive than in the US and don't always have the choice. Overall, i've used probably 500 of these of the last 3-4 years and can count on one hand the number of bad ones.

As for their future longevity? Time will tell.
 
Apr 1, 2004 at 5:57 PM Post #27 of 40

oneeyedhobbit

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I didn't think the CDRW drive made such a difference as some are purporting (removing high frequencies)? They're writing either land or pits for binary, I would think it would be impossible to chop out a section of frequencies. The real trick would be making sure your copy is accurate by not doing things such as write-on-the fly. Instead, use EAC to make a cue sheet and write from that at a slow speed.

Do any of you buy into the black media (NOT the black vinly record looking CDRs--sorry folks, but they strike me as cool looking but overpriced)? I mean the black-backed ones that supposedly produce superior sound.
 
Apr 1, 2004 at 9:34 PM Post #30 of 40

Thrasher

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Just in case you wonder how to identify Taiyo Yuden discs except for putting them in the burner and using the appropriate software, you can always look at the bottom of the disc.
The dye color is something between green and blue. The marking in the center consists of two numbers representing the media length (usally 80) followed by a space, two letters (the first one should be P) and 4 or 5 numbers.
For example:

Verbatim_Pastel80_40x_Number.jpg


If you want to see a big picture of an older (with the matrix characters) Taiyo Yuden disc, click here.
 

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