[DavidA]

  Sounds delicious. I have been experimenting with alcohol and one of them is pisco from Peru. My girlfriend is Peruvian-Japanese and I've bought some decent pisco here in the US. It is a clear alcohol that is made from grapes, like brandy but without age. Just the best harvested grapes (usually green ones) and intensely strong. Another special thing about pisco is that it is distilled to proof at 43%. Many alcohols are watered down to bring them to their volume.
 
Not for the faint of heart, but at 43% alcohol I'd rather have a shot of pisco than vodka or make a chilcano which is pisco, ginger ale, and lime juice. Great enjoyment with the X00s and Mojo just like you have. 

 

I've found my alcohol that I want to try this weekend, pisco sounds interesting since I love wine and vodka.

 

[mynamesjeff]

Can anyone recommend/link me to a good comfort strap for the TH-X00s? I find the lack of padding on the headband giving me a bit of a headache/hot spot after long listening. 

 

[Drizz1e]

I use a suspension strap made by @Lohb.
 

 
 (not my picture)

 

[Sonic Defender]

  I've found my alcohol that I want to try this weekend, pisco sounds interesting since I love wine and vodka.

I may do the same thing as I drink rye/bourbon and ginger so this with lime sounds excellent. How are things going mate?

 

[DeadWaves]

Wonder how much this darker wood version will be. Bit gutted that the UK pound has been destroyed in time for this lol Wish we could just buy the cups. 

 

 

[Sonic Defender]

May be meaningless, but to many consumers that fact of your set being #9 carries a little more value. Hence making them "exclusive" and spiking price. Does Massdrop want their customers to have that perception of exclusivity? Based on 3 and 4 drops of a same product I would say no. But if it was limited to the first run and that's it, I bet we'd be calling these cans exclusive.

BTW I still think yours are pretty sweet for having a low serial number. Sure can't say that with my TH600.

Why would anybody pay more for #9 or #900? They sound the same ultimately. These really aren't collector items, well, not by design I suspect. I know what you mean, but I don't think anybody will pay a dime more used for say #9, maybe a tad more for #1, that might have some cache.

 

[inertianinja]

If anyone's thinking of doing a removable cable mod without modifying the headphone, here's some info that I hope helps. I will just include pics for stuff that's not already in this thread. Thank you @PETEREK and the others in this thread for the help.
 
So, people said that you can do this mod "without modifying the headphone" if you use SMC connectors. I'll save you the confusion - yea, you don't modify the headphone, but you do modify the SMC connector. 
 
Disassembly
These headphones are very easy to take apart. 4 screws hold the cup/driver to the frame, and 4 screws remove the cup from the driver. Just note that there is some glue holding the cables in place - it's easy enough to pull apart, just go slow.
The wires are well marked. Brown on both sides = ground, and pink/blue wires indicate L/R positive. The positive connection is marked on the driver contacts with a red marker.
 
Removing Stock Wires
I try to make this as simple as possible. A dab of solder on the soldering iron, I pull a bit on the existing wire, and just touch the iron to the solder already on the headphone. In about a second, the solder re-liquifies and you can pull the old wire out without removing the existing solder blob.
 
New SMC Connectors
There is very, very little space available between the headphone frame and the cup. You need SMC connector model 2963:

 
This is a tiny connector already, but you have cut it down even further to get it to fit. I was able to do this easily with my wire strippers. Here's what mine looked like after cutting:

 
Next, solder wires at 90-degree angles to the connector:

 
 
For soldering the wires to the driver, I reverse the procedure I mentioned above. I tin the wire, place it on top of the existing solder blob (with a little bit of downward force), and just touch the iron to the wire long enough to reflow the solder. the wire pops into the existing solder and we're done.
 
After confirming that the connections are correct (i.e. playing music), I finish the connector by adding a dab of hot glue around the connections, just for insurance.
 
When mounting the SMC connectors to the headphone, place the friction ring on the outside of the headphone, so they mount as low as possible.
 
When re-assembling the driver & cup, go slowly and don't over-tighten. You don't want to strip the wood or, god forbid, cause a crack.
 
Finished product:
 

 

[Sharkhunter]

Wish someone makes a YouTube video on this mod.

 

[Rainjam]

Which wire do you use now, the stock one? And if, did you just solder connectors to it?

RJ

 

[inertianinja]

  Which wire do you use now, the stock one? And if, did you just solder connectors to it?

RJ

 
This is what I did with the stock cable:
 
Converted the top of the cable into a SMC --> 3.5mm adapter so it's compatible with the 100 million 3.5mm cables of varying lengths that I already have.
The cover for the 3.5mm female at the bottom is a little 3D printed design of mine.
 

 
The remainder of the cable I will probably turn into a shorter 3.5-to-6.3mm cable; I just need to order a 3.5mm male that will fit the stock wires & insulation.

 

[inertianinja]

Wish someone makes a YouTube video on this mod.

 
It's more straightforward than it seems - removing 4 screws very simply and easily exposes everything you need to access. The only difficult part was figuring out how to make the connectors fit (hence my post) and the tiny soldering (which just took practice; order extra connectors in case of screwups).

 

[DavidA]

@inertianinja, great job.  I guess there is a little more room with the TH-600 since I didn't have to cut down the center pin of the SMC connector.
 
I use the original cable and terminated them with mini-XLR connectors to use with my LCD-2 and modded T1 and DT-990.

 

[inertianinja]

  @inertianinja, great job.  I guess there is a little more room with the TH-600 since I didn't have to cut down the center pin of the SMC connector.
 
I use the original cable and terminated them with mini-XLR connectors to use with my LCD-2 and modded T1 and DT-990.

 
Thank you!
 
I considered going to mini-XLR but I had to face the fact that I have have *many* 3.5mm--3.5mm & 3.5mm--6.3mm cables laying around, and all my headphones (except the Hifiman and now the TH-X00) have 3.5mm connections. For the sake of simplicity, I just made a SMC to 3.5mm adapter which makes everything work in harmony for now.

 

[DavidA]

   
Thank you!
 
I considered going to mini-XLR but I had to face the fact that I have have *many* 3.5mm--3.5mm & 3.5mm--6.3mm cables laying around, and all my headphones (except the Hifiman and now the TH-X00) have 3.5mm connections. For the sake of simplicity, I just made a SMC to 3.5mm adapter which makes everything work in harmony for now.

Going with what works for you, can't argue with that.

 

[Jozurr]

The TH-X00 with the E-MU Ebony earcups are gorgeous, in my opinion. I've come to appreciate them as well because the Ebony gives me a bass boost from the stock Mahogany cups that were starting to sound just not as bassy to my ears (based on headphones/IEMs I've listened to as of late). The midrange and treble are still glorious as bass has increased but doesn't hinder the rest of the presentation to my ears. I've gotten used to the weight as well, so no real worries in that department - still lighter in weight than say the Focal Elear and Utopia (heavier than the Listen, though). Here's a pic with all of the modifications as well:

 
Where and how do you order these and how much do they cost? Are the cups directly interchangeable on the TH-X00?