- Feb 1, 2009
Idk my view is that I fail to see how they will be significantly different than the original by JUST changing the wood type.
Maybe I'm off, it's possible, but this notion that they are quite different JUST because of the ear cup while EVERYTHING
including pads, driver, assembly, dampening, etc leaves me scratching my head.
Logic tells me they've got to be close-sounding when literally all you're changing is the type of wood used on the ear-cup...
Having heard a lot of these incarnations of this headphone (D7000, Lawton D5000, D2000, TH900, TH600, THX00 Mahogany, THX00 with rosewood and ebony EMU cups, EMU Teak plus various cable and damping mods on several of those), the cups are a definite, noticeable difference, but it's also subtle. You can very clearly tell they are the same headphone family, and just variations on a theme. If you were walking up and putting one on without having heard the others for a while, I think most people would be hard pressed to pick out the differences. However, most people would be able to hear the differences if you were hardcore A/Bing. Are the differences worth it? I think so, as far as finding which of the variations just exactly hits what you're after. However, I agree it seems like not the best usage of funds to own all the variations. You can buy some pretty great ancillary gear with that money. DAC, headphone upgrade, power conditioner, a set of really great portables, etc. But far be it from me to tell people how to spend their money. If "gotta catch em all" floats your boat, you could do worse with a headphone family than the Foster 50mm bio-dyna family.
In terms of difference made i'd say the order of what makes the biggest differences, from largest to smallest are:
1) pads (can be a night and day difference with certain pads, some are subtle)
2) cup size and internal dimensions (basically four main sizes/dimensions you see: Lawton, TH900, EMU Teak and THX00 series
3) Internal damping materials
4) cup wood material
5) foam tuning ring density