[bluemonkeyflyer]

   
Here are some comparative measurements based on a purchased Mayflower T50RPs.
Graphs are those of stock T50RP,  Sennheiser HD600, Mayflower T50RP (came with (p)leather HM5 pads) and that of the Mayflower set using my own pads (StratoPads), which are modded HM5 velour pads.
 

 
 
 
These graphs (aligned at 1kHz) compare my Open T50RP StratoPad set with the closed Mayflower StratoPad version and the HD600.
 

 
Thanks for the graphs. Your T50 Closed and Open with StratoPad measurements look Great!
 
The Mayflower graph looks like it's bass heavy and probably bloats the lower mids, possibly masks some treble, too. What do you hear?
 
I don't remember if you described your StratoPads.

 

[stratocaster]

   
The Mayflower graph looks like it's bass heavy and probably bloats the lower mids, possibly masks some treble, too. What do you hear?
 

 
^ This
 
The 'StratoPad' is a modified HM5 velour pad. I guess the pictures are quite self-explanatory. Driver damping and felt-disk leakage have to be brought into balance to achieve a flat response. 
 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

   
^ This
 
The 'StratoPad' is a modified HM5 velour pad. I guess the pictures are quite self-explanatory. Driver damping and felt-disk leakage have to be brought into balance to achieve a flat response. 
 

 
Looks like open cell foam under pad cushion on the ear side and Paxmate (?) on the under-surface.
 
Thanks for sharing.

 

[c61746961]

So the 'sock' flap that holds the donut against the baffle leaks sound?

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

   
Here are some comparative measurements based on a purchased Mayflower T50RPs.
Graphs are those of stock T50RP,  Sennheiser HD600, Mayflower T50RP (came with (p)leather HM5 pads) and that of the Mayflower set using my own pads (StratoPads), which are modded HM5 velour pads.
 

 
 
 
These graphs (aligned at 1kHz) compare my Open T50RP StratoPad set with the closed Mayflower StratoPad version and the HD600.
 

 
 
Which mayflowers are those? The V1s, V2s and V3s are all very different. (I have the V1s)

 

[stratocaster]

   
Looks like open cell foam under pad cushion on the ear side and Paxmate (?) on the under-surface.
 
Thanks for sharing.

 
It is just a felt ring on the underside of the pad (allowing some leakage that flattens out the bass) and some open-cell foam (the white stuff in the pic) under the pad (flattens the highs to some degree). That's all. When there is too much treble energy for your taste, you can put some (rather dense) open-cell foam in the pad, earside. So the highs become really smooth.
 
Be aware that this works best with the HM5 velours. The HM5 pleather pads can function as StratoPads, but the highs are peakier than with the velours. The velours are simply perfect for this.
 
 
 

So the 'sock' flap that holds the donut against the baffle leaks sound?

 
The sock flap is just there to hold the pad in place. You can't use leather or similar because some sound has to leak through the felt ring and the sock.
 

   
 
Which mayflowers are those? The V1s, V2s and V3s are all very different. (I have the V1s)

 
The seller said it was a V2 (comes with a velour pad) but it has the (p)leather HM5 pads of the V3. Anyway, I also measured it with stock HM5 velour pads, which resulted in a somewhat flatter FR, similar to the measurements of the V2 on Innerfidelity.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

   
 
 
The seller said it was a V2 (comes with a velour pad) but it has the (p)leather HM5 pads of the V3. Anyway, I also measured it with stock HM5 velour pads, which resulted in a somewhat flatter FR, similar to the measurements of the V2 on Innerfidelity.

 
 
Yeah, I thought so, V1s are the basic slue of mods, just with completely open bass ports, so ever ever so slight bass emphasis  (of course at low volumes this is ideal) V2s are "analytical" with that flatter response, and the V3s are "ermehgerd all dat rumble bass"

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

FYI/FWIW
 
IF interested, go to Post #1 and select "T50RP Wave Guides AKA Phase Plugs"

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

FYI/FWIW

IF interested, go to Post #1 and select "T50RP Wave Guides AKA Phase Plugs"

Wow, looks great. Now I have to debate for a month or two about actually doing it to mine

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Wow, looks great. Now I have to debate for a month or two about actually doing it to mine

 
It's not difficult and you don't have to open them since they go on the ear side.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

It's not difficult and you don't have to open them since they go on the ear side.

Heh I've opened them tons of times. Mostly to fix the foam on the one side, it was all wrinckley. Its cutting the dust cover then glueing wood to the driver. Heh doesn't seem reversible. It is my only pair, and don't quite have the money to replace... (Not that I see anything going wrong at all.)

On a side note, do the guides press on your ears at all? Or rub on the back of the pads?

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Heh I've opened them tons of times. Mostly to fix the foam on the one side, it was all wrinckley. Its cutting the dust cover then glueing wood to the driver. Heh doesn't seem reversible. It is my only pair, and don't quite have the money to replace... (Not that I see anything going wrong at all.)

On a side note, do the guides press on your ears at all? Or rub on the back of the pads?

 
You are correct that snipping off the cross members is irreversible. I don't *think* removing them results in reduced physical integrity as long as you don't try to remove the driver capsules from the baffle. Then, *maybe* physical integrity would be compromised.
 
The guides do not press on the ears if you remove the cross members because the guides sit "down," recessed in the cavity where the cross members used to sit. They do not rub on the pads, either.
 
The "key" to removing the cross members is to First "score" them with an X-acto knife, then they snip cleanly off using wire cutters.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

You are correct that snipping off the cross members is irreversible. I don't *think* removing them results in reduced physical integrity as long as you don't try to remove the driver capsules from the baffle. Then, *maybe* physical integrity would be compromised.

The guides do not press on the ears if you remove the cross members because the guides sit "down," recessed in the cavity where the cross members used to sit. They do not rub on the pads, either.

The "key" to removing the cross members is to First "score" them with an X-acto knife, then they snip cleanly off using wire cutters.

Hmm I see, I might be willing to try it, does it help soundstage at all? Seems like a more direct wave would close the stage up.

You also mentioned rearside guides, would that have any sort of effect? Directing the rear wave seems void if the can as a whole has been dampened

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

RE: Wave Guides 
 
I added an annotated photograph of the ear side of T50RP that shows all the dimensions to consider for DIY and especially 3D Printed Wave Guides.
 
If interested ---> Go to Post #1 in this thread and select Table of Contents: 28.
 
If you make wave guides, please post youe results, pictures, and impressions.
 
Thanks,
 
~ BMF
 
EDIT: I don't know what happened to updates in Post #1 for Balsa Wood and 3D Printed Wave Guides for T50RP. They were "there" yesterday but gone today! Maybe I finally used up allowable space in Post #1. I will post this information again on page 100 or 101.
 
The was an interaction of problems with Google Chrome and headfi's server. I PM'd the headfi moderators and literally received a reply and the solution in less than 5 minutes. As suggested, I cleared the cached web page from my browser and reloaded the page. Problem solved.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

BMF and I have been PMing for awhile now on designing some printed ones, he decided to post that dimension picture. Which was a purely fantastic idea.

Here's what I have so far. I spent a long time thinking about the shape, after thinking out ray paths I decided a slight straight up, with a round dome was the best, reflecting more waves at all angles forward (in theory)

Tonight when I get home I'll finalize the dimensions and work on a rounde d top pyrimid. BMF pointed out that's the shape that LCD guides are. Heh I'll spend most of the day trying to figure out why. I'm assuming its because sound is much more complicated then how I'm figuring it out with Rays