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Fostex new RP headphones - T50RPmk3, T40RPmk3 and T20RPmk3

Discussion in 'Headphones (full-size)' started by sopp, Apr 15, 2015.
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  1. Holy Schiit
    My Mayflower MK3 Mod Kit came in and it does its job beautifully. 
     
    The Mod Kit comes with

    - Black Newplast clay
    - Soft and stiff felt (two small cut outs each) 
    - Dampening Foam (two small cut outs)
    - Pair of multilayered cotton
    - A sheet of paper with real to size cut outs of each item. 
    ** Also ordered the Baffle Upgrade** (which I assume are what have tamed the highs for me) 
     
    Installation took me about an hour and 20 minutes but it was my first time. I can easily cut that down to 40 minutes if I had to redo it again. The most time-consuming steps are cutting out the felt that fit into each crevice of the cup. 

    It was well worth the $30 investment. I loved the headphones ever since first listening to the but the highs were on the edge of unbearable. Now It's brought them down a bit but nowhere near as harsh or fatiguing. 

    Here are some pics I snapped of some steps in the installation: 
     
    IMG_0652.jpg
    IMG_0489.jpg
    IMG_0743.jpg
    IMG_0810.jpg

    The upgraded baffle (last pic) is stiffer than the stock one so the sound is a little more focused when coming out of the planar drivers. I assume it is the major key in taming the highs seeing as the air vent(s) behind the baffle are obstructed even more so with a denser piece. Either way, the sound signature itself drastically changed. Great upgrade for those who are treble sensitive
     
    [​IMG]
     
    shawnonrev likes this.
  2. marcan
    According to my experience the distance between the driver and the ear will mainly change the mids. The closer to the ear the more mids you have.
    Inner and outer vents will change the bass.
    The material you will put between the ear and the driver will change the highs.
    Holly Schiit, what is the sonic result of your mods?
     
  3. paulmazz
    I couldn't get the stiff felt to sound right on the back of the driver. it would dramatically reduce the bass and thin out the sound even with vents open and cotten removed.
     
  4. Holy Schiit
    Well, the highs are bearable now because I am super sensitive to it, unfortunately. I can tell when playing shooters online the sound of bullets coming out of the gun is extremely fatiguing with the unmodded T50RPs. I have played about 5 hours so far different games (BF4 and Halo 5 in particular) and the overall sound has been sublime and so good. No fatiguing no sharpness what so ever. The bass isn't really improved but it's good enough for my listening purposes. I don't really listen to bass heavy music so if that's something you are looking for there is a bass model of the T50RPs on Mayflowers website which I am not educated enough on to comment on. The mids maybe a little bit more pronounced but it's very comparable to the stock unmodded T50RPs. Another thing people fail to realize is these headphones are extremely inefficient so you have to have a semi-powerful amp to push these. My Sound Blaster X7's volume dial is set around 55% - 60% and my game volume for games set around 60%. I like to keep my game volume and amp volume around the same number (just personal preference). 
     
     
    Idk if you can tell but I punched bigger holes on the back of my stiff felt because I didn't have a smaller hole puncher but I actually like them better this way. Felt kind of wrong to cover back of the driver with stiff felt. I would say the bigger holes maybe cover 30% of the back of the driver. If you were to use smaller holes I would say it would cover around 60% of the driver. Not everybody's ears are the same so you have to play with the size of the holes and the amount of cotton. The stiff felt and cotton are meant to slightly affect the air pressure behind the planar drivers so play with it. Once you get the sound you want just leave them alone and enjoy. Who knows maybe if I remove some of the cotton I would enjoy it even more so but I like the sound much more than the stock already so no point in messing that up imo. 
     
  5. Nick-s-f
    If anyone needs a reference, here's the driver of my mayflower v1's as they came from factory.
     
    Note the half-covered square in the paper:
    MFV1driver.jpg
     
  6. Holy Schiit
    IMG_0492.jpg
     
    This is mine. I would say the holes I punched myself are about maybe twice as big maybe covering 30% - 40% of the back of the driver. 

    How much difference this makes in changing the sound signature who knows I don't have a pair from Mayflower. 
     
  7. legion1capone
    What are the sound differences between the Talos, mayflower v1, and ZMF classic?
     
  8. musiclife
     
    I actually went to a demo store to try out the Meze 99 and the NAD HP50 because I wanted some new flat headphones.
     
    They were both technically good sounding, without much fault, but it just was not an ah-ah moment. But then I saw the orange cable and asked to try the Fostex.
     
    After seconds only of listening I knew i was leaving with them. The planar sound is just so different. Everything is more precise and smooth at the same time.
     
  9. Lohb

    Yep, I found the NAD HP50 ultimately dull...smooth but no zing/dynamics/bite to it.
    Planars are a different beast altogether.
     
  10. rikk009
    "Everything is more precise and smooth at the same time"
    Yup! That's precisely how T50 sounds, right now my mods have made the mids so smooth I can't describe it audiophile lingo. The female vocals are like double burst cheese pizza, or maybe pouring some honey over my ears. [​IMG]
     
  11. UprightMan
    I just got in the t50rp's but they are MK2... I plan to mod them into a V-shaped signature (have a few pads to choose from).  Should I return these and get Mk3 or MK2 better for my purposes please? 
     
  12. kimikaze
    Depend on how much you want to mod them. If fully(plasticine, dampening foam, cotton, felts, better cable an so on) then by all means stay with cheapest mk2 model you can get. If it is your goal only to change pads and add comfort headband, then maybe is wiser to chose mk3.
     
  13. UprightMan
    I DO plan to do a fully mod - but the key thing I want is bass impact (a lot of it!).  Does the change in baffle and pad attachement from MK2 to MK3 make this a concern to me?
     
    Thanks!!!!!
     
  14. axtran

    The bass really comes in if you do a more open mod with these (similar to design of T20RP).
     
  15. UprightMan
    will do that - does it matter if I have MK2 or should I get MK3 is question still :)  Thanks!!
     
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