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nitsujH

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Hi everybody. I am a hardcore newbie to this stuff and I've been looking at making a CMoy amp for a couple weeks now and I finnaly decided to do it, and I'm using tangentsoft.com as a guide. Right now I'm ordering parts from Digi-Key and I have no idea what any of this stuff is for the most part, so I'm just blindly ordering parts off the table Tangent wrote. Is this list including a pot, pot knob and a power switch? If not what are some product codes for a decent pot, pot knob, and power switch? I'm placing orders to Digi-Key and to Radioshack, so numbers from either will be fine. Also what sort of extra stuff am I going to need, such as wire and stuff like that?

Thanks for the help guys.

*edit* Will any LED light work? Or do I need a special type?
 
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BlazerFRS

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I would suggest you take some time to figure everything out; everything will go together much most smoothly if you know what everything is for.

If you have any specific questions either ask them or do a search.

Digikey part numbers (right off tangent's site):

360-1155 <---- this P/N is the switch
P2U4103 <---- This is the P/N for the volume pot
8568K
226-1041
226-2041 <----- these are all P/N's for various styles of volume knob
226-1033
226-2033


Radioshack has a few audio dual pots, but they are quite large, and not too great quality-wise.
Hope this helps
 
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The Monkey

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For hookup wire, I recommend using teflon insulated silver plated copper wire. Do a search for silver teflon on ebay and you'll bring up a bunch of stuff. Teflon coated wire is better because the teflon won't melt from the heat of the soldering iron like pvc insulation does. It is a bit harder to strip the teflon, though. I recommend getting at least 3 different colors. Anything from 22 AWG to 26 AWG should do the trick.
 
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nitsujH

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Thanks for the help so far. I didn't even notice that second table on his page, sorry! I was so absorbed into figguring out the first half that I didn't scroll down.

22 AWG and 26 AWG? Are those gauges?
And is there anything else I'll need besides wire the wire?
 
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Jazper

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nitsujH
Thanks for the help so far. I didn't even notice that second table on his page, sorry! I was so absorbed into figguring out the first half that I didn't scroll down.

22 AWG and 26 AWG? Are those gauges?
And is there anything else I'll need besides wire the wire?



AWG = A(something) Wire Guage
 
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The Monkey

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nitsujH
And is there anything else I'll need besides wire the wire?


Solder.


Perhaps it would be easier if you posted what you have/will have soon and we can try to let you know if you're missing anything.
 
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BlazerFRS

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I always thought AWG was American Wire Gauge; but if you use it in Australia perhaps it's somthing different...

The only other things that come to mind are stuff like solder (edit: The Monkey beat me to the punch), soldering iron, a case, and a drill or dremel to make holes in the case with.
 
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Jam_Master_J

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I thought is was "aggregate" for some reason. And another recommendation for the silver-plated teflon wire. I use mine for all kinds of project. I boguth 1000 feet of 20gauge on ebay.
 
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BlazerFRS

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I use the teflon stuff too; very nice compared w/ that pvc insulation.

I've never used it, but been told irradiated PVC insulation also does not melt from heat during soldering; and it may be a bit cheaper.

20AWG is probably a bit large for most uses IMHO; I use 24AWG for hookup wires and shielded 22AWG for interconnects (both teflon insulated silver coated copper)
 
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Jazper

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AWG may be american wire guage - I don't know to be honest

and many people have forgotten desolder braid! essential imho
 
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Voodoochile

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazper
...and many people have forgotten desolder braid! essential imho


So true! It will get a lot of use in the beginning, especially.

One other tip: since those ratshack proto boards are not plated with solder, you have to clean them really well immediately prior to soldering your project. A bit of scotchbrite pad (no soap kind) works well, and ultra-fine wet-or-dry sandpaper will also work well. Make sure the board is nice and shiny, maybe give it a quick wipe with some alcohol afterwards, or blow it off. It solders much more easily if it is absolutely clean. Otherwise your solder will bead up and not flow unless you use a load of flux, and that creates it's own issues.

Although steel wool would work, you DON'T want to use it. Those little metal fibers will make your life a living hell once they get all over your stuff. Stay away from it.
 
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nitsujH

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Wow, thanks for all the help this far I didn't figgure this many people would respond.

Wow, a foot of that wire on Digi Key is $40.. Is there regular copper wire with the teflon coating? Or copper coated with a cheaper material?

Quote:

Perhaps it would be easier if you posted what you have/will have soon and we can try to let you know if you're missing anything.


As for things I already have; about any cutting device needed, drill, soldering iron, and solder.
I don't have any parts ordered for the amp yet, I'd prefer to get it all into one order to keep cost down, but heres my order form from Digi Key.

Code:

Code:
[left]Index Quantity Part Number Description Customer Reference Backorder Quantity Unit Price USD Extended Price USD 1 2 P5552 CAP 220UF 35V ELECT NHG RADIAL 0 0.42000 $0.84 2 2 P3104 .1 UFD POLYPROPYLENE CAP 0 0.86000 $1.72 3 5 10.0KXBK RES 10.0K OHM 1/4W 1% METAL FILM 0 0.10800 $0.54 4 5 4.75KXBK RES 4.75K OHM 1/4W 1% METAL FILM 0 0.10800 $0.54 5 5 100KXBK RES 100K OHM 1/4W 1% METAL FILM 0 0.10800 $0.54 6 5 1.00KXBK RES 1.00K OHM 1/4W 1% METAL FILM 0 0.10800 $0.54 7 1 OPA2132PA IC DUAL FET HI SP OP-AMP 8-DIP 0 5.40000 $5.40 8 2 CP-3535 CONN AUDIO JACK 3.5MM STEREO 0 1.04000 $2.08 9 1 360-1155-ND SWITCH TOGGLE SPDT 6A 0 4.20000 $4.20 10 1 P2U4103-ND POT 10K OHM 12MM HORZ MET BUSHIN 0 2.66000 $2.66 11 1 8555K-ND KNOB INSTRUM SKIRTED RND .7"DIA 0 3.78000 $3.78 Subtotal$22.84 Handling$5.00 Shippingunknown Sales Taxunknown Totalunknown[/left]

Off topic for a moment, I'm also wanting to make some cables, and I've read through the massive cable thread and I've got a good idea what to do, but as I look at conneters I see two connectors that are same except for one is labeled TRS and is an extra dollar or something. Whats the TRS, and do I want it?
 
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1UP

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= Tip Ring Sleeve - it's a 1/4" stereo headphone jack (stricly, a 3.5mm stereo minijack is also TRS, but 1/4" is what is denoted here)
 
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