Loquah
Headphoneus Supremus
I can't remember which brands are TI owned, but the OPA627 and 827 are both great options.
What does it mean when the FiiO E12 DIY flashes the blue light when it comes on 6-12 times and then stops, but never outputs any sound? I hear the switching/click noise from the relay, but the sound never comes!
I have tried using the reset button, but no matter the source (tried 4 different sources) I can't get any sound to output to any of my headphones using low or high gain settings on the E12.
I have been doing a detailed op-amp review for Burson Audio and after a week of testing, this randomly occurred so I had to stop my review. Also note, this is a brand new E12, I bought it for testing op-amps/a Hi-Fi portable amp.
Does anyone even know of a way to cause this to happen if all you are doing is rolling op-amps? I have been involved in modding hardware for over 15 years (def know the correct orientation of an op-amp) and I have never killed a single piece of hardware, even at work as lead hardware tech.
I tried every Dual-DIP op-amp I have on hand (11 different ones) and none of them work, including the Burson V5i and V5-OPA.
(Note to FiiO: I emailed your support describing these symptoms 2 weeks ago and still haven't heard back.)
I am hoping someone knows what happened or can give me some diagnostic tests to try.
Review here for anyone interested, the E12 is the main device I used for op-amp rolling:
http://www.head-fi.org/products/burson-audio-supreme-sound-opamp-v5/reviews/17827
I had this issue with my unit. I bought mine used about 8-9 months ago and it worked fine for a month. Then with certain op-amps the blue light would flash, and a few weeks later none of my op-amps worked at all. I thought maybe it was the battery so I bought a replacement from aliexpress. When that came I installed it and no difference. I emailed fiio customer support and shipped it to them for repair. It's been fine since and what I would suggest if you don't want to risk a soldering iron on your unit.
There isn't a whole lot of solder on the dip socket. Easily a cold solder joint.
As of tonite I desoldered the stock socket and went with the socket that came with the Burson V5. The holes are a tad bigger and the Muses go in easier. Also added my last Wima cap to it.
Hey thanks for your input and the pictures, I will definitely take a look at the sockets themselves. I have been modding/building circuits for over a decade and I am now a Jr in Electrical Engineering as of this semester, so I should be able to spot the issue (with the help of my tools) if it's just a solder joint.
I may also put the socket provided by Burson Audio with each of their op-amps to go in as a replacement if I find the problem there.
The only thing I could recall I did that wasn't on purpose with this unit was I accidentally pulled a V5i out of the E12 while it was still on. I immediately powered it off and inserted the V5i back, had static and popping. I put a V5-OPA-D in and it worked (for a little while). A few hours later I couldn't get a lick of sound to come out.
(sorry if any of that is a repeat of my post above)
Yeah I tried all of the buffers, didn't seem to make any difference.
For a short period high gain gave sound when low gain didn't, but usually with the V5-OPA-D.
Did you reflow all the solder joint underneath the opamp socket yet?
This combo didn't work. I just had to try it out. Also tried a dual V4 burson and got nothing.
Are those discrete buffers?