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Faded OLED Displays
Mar 17, 2017 at 10:36 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 13
147JK

147JK

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I see a lot of faded and malfunctioning OLED displays, particularly on relatively new TEAC gear such as this UD-501.  It's a shame as the rest of the piece works perfectly.  Probably easy to get to and replace, but where can one purchase replacement display components as a DIY fix for this?
 
Thanks
 

 
Mar 17, 2017 at 6:14 PM Post #2 of 13
Depending on the display used, it could be easy or difficult to source.
Most displays use a standard interface protocol but that doesn't stop a manufacturer
from using their own custom driver/protocol.
 
Mar 18, 2017 at 4:28 PM Post #3 of 13
the nt503 has a real oled display (I just took it apart and looked) but the one in your picture sure looks like a VF display.
and all VF displays do this.  likely a standard part, take it apart and look for the part number and manufacturer.
 
Mar 18, 2017 at 5:09 PM Post #4 of 13
kevin gilmore said:
  the nt503 has a real oled display (I just took it apart and looked) but the one in your picture sure looks like a VF display.
and all VF displays do this.  likely a standard part, take it apart and look for the part number and manufacturer.
Click to expand...


Interesting.  If I find it's a standard part, I'll buy a bag full of them.  Reliability on these seems to be rather poor.
 
I thought the 501 had an OLED display like the 503.  But I don't see that in TEAC's literature, so I think I got the 2 mixed-up.
 
Mar 25, 2018 at 8:34 AM Post #5 of 13
147JK said:
I see a lot of faded and malfunctioning OLED displays, particularly on relatively new TEAC gear such as this UD-501. It's a shame as the rest of the piece works perfectly. Probably easy to get to and replace, but where can one purchase replacement display components as a DIY fix for this?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Did you find a replacement for this? mine is even worse, im waiting for a reply from teac about replacements, ive got the old one out. The part no only relates to the actual screen bit but it does look like its oled. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en...02ASWCG01WISECHIPSEMICONDUCTORINC2037734&IM=0

Ok done a bit more number copying, its a 1602B RevA display, these seem to be lcd and about £2, i might have a punt to see if the code works off the bat.
 
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Mar 25, 2018 at 8:48 AM Post #6 of 13
Alan Ballagh said:
Did you find a replacement for this? mine is even worse, im waiting for a reply from teac about replacements, ive got the old one out. The part no only relates to the actual screen bit but it does look like its oled. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en...02ASWCG01WISECHIPSEMICONDUCTORINC2037734&IM=0
Click to expand...

I ordered this one and will have it tomorrow. Unfortunately TEAC made these so that very fine soldering is required here. Knowing how quickly these fail, a different type of connector would have been a better idea. Anyway, I'll let you know how to goes..

https://www.buydisplay.com/default/...le-display-white-on-black-i2c-3-4-wire-serial
 
Mar 25, 2018 at 8:59 AM Post #7 of 13
Mar 27, 2018 at 12:16 AM Post #8 of 13
Alan Ballagh said:
Excellent, looking forward to see how you get on, not looking forward to soldering it in!
Click to expand...

I am happy to report the operation was a success! The patient is out of the hospital and back in its place producing beautiful music again.

A few notes on the process in case anyone wants to try this..

1. The display I purchased (see post above) is very nicely made and the packaging is first-rate. Highly recommend this company and its product.
2. The factory display is both soldered and glued in place. TEAC what were you thinking? I had to rip it out, and that destroyed the ribbon connectors. So be aware once it is out, there is no going back!
3 Ripping it out left a lot of glue on the board and on the solder pads. It took 45 minutes to gently nudge and burn this junk off, so be patient with this step.
4. The ribbon connector points are incredibly small. You really need at least a magnifying glass to see them well.
5. I tried to solder the connections one-by-one, which seemed to be working, until I turned it on and nothing happened. That's when you get that sinking feeling in your stomach.
6. So instead I put an oval tip on my iron and went for the "drag" technique. This did the trick and solidified the connections. The display works like new.

I found this video about small-scale soldering very helpful..

This "drag" technique is what is called for here and worked perfectly. Note: do use plenty of flux, as shown in the video.

If anyone has any questions about this, please let me know here and I'll try to answer them.

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P1030139.JPG
 
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