[Whitigir]

I can see that “unsecured” solder joints without your red arrow. The one next to it is also questionable. You are definitely up into the cause of buzzing here.

Now, if the pad is lifted, your Amp8 is done for. If it isn’t lifted, then you can have it redone. However, my guess is that it is lifted. Did you mean the Tantalum Yellow cap is moving or is it the brown Nippon is moving ? Hopefully it is the Nippon

The Amp8 at this place especially is very easily lifted, and damaged. However, if a tech can lift the pad with this Amp8W mod, then he isn’t good. Both @edwardsean and @singleended5863 and others did successfully upgraded to Amp8W without lifting them

 

[gannjunior]

. However, my guess is that it is lifted. Did you mean the Tantalum Yellow cap is moving or is it the brown Nippon is moving ? Hopefully it is the Nippon

they are both mate unluckyly

number 1 is moving forward following the Arrows verse (a sort of 'overturning')...it's giving up...in fact it's also well visible a sort of dark burning.
While blu circled leg of the Nippon is clearly weak and almost gone....

I believe is simply not recoverable...

 

[Whitigir]

Huge chance that your pad is lif and ed and the amp8 is not salvageable anymore

 

[lantian]

Guys, thank you all for your help.

yes, the bzzzzz is listenable during the silence. But, with one exception: DSD 512 conversions. I noticed the song converted in DSD512 (maybe because in this is need the maximum power) are simply not listenable because the bzzzzz is higher than the music. Changing the amp, there is no problem so the problem is the amp.

And, guys, I believe the job has not been done in the right way....I think the technician is a butcher ! He also told me " I did not use your solder, 'cause it's too much 'thick' " (since I provide him the SS-47 Oyaide solder...).
Here some shots (and pls note what I circled in red: the little Yellow piece is "moving", it's also broken if i touch it, in fact the contact indicated by the red Arrow is almost broken too...in fact if I try to stand up that capacitor I'm sure it will rest in my hand....):

Hm, that sucks, you can try and redo the solder joints, clean them and redo with better solder.
I now know I'll have to do it myself. Thank you.

 

[edwardsean]

Hm, that sucks, you can try and redo the solder joints, clean them and redo with better solder.
I now know I'll have to do it myself. Thank you.

I’m so sorry to tell you this but I don’t think solder won’t solve this issue. From everything you’re saying the pad underneath the tantalum cap is separating from the board. That is what is enabling it to roll up that way. If you try to fix it the pad will come off completely. There is only one chance you have to save it, and it’s not worth mentioning. A really good tech might be able to glue the pad back down and repair the traces. This is complicated though because the traces are not only on this side of the board but also underneath. Even if the tech could fix it all, it is intensive work and you would probably be charged the cost of a new amp. Also, the burn markings on the cap are not a great sign.

This may be a cold comfort but there are a few of us who have gone through this trying to upgrade amp8. You’re not alone. It stinks going through this, I know. At least we can be thankful that the
DX200 is modular in design. If the amp was integrated into the main PCB you would have lost the whole unit. As it is you’re out the cost of an amp8, which hopefully you can reorder.

Good luck to you.

 

[gannjunior]

Thank you guys...
Anyway I paid the technician and he released me a paper for the warranty on its job....
For sure he's not able to recover this.
But what you do you suggest? is it possible I can ask him to buy me a new amp8? I have the purchase receipt of everthing: amp8 was new, bought in january by advancedmp3 uk, the various capacitors by Mouser....How can I manage this situation to get some chance to limit my money expense? How can I say him "hey you are not able to do your job" since I'm not a technician...

 

[Whitigir]

Thank you guys...
Anyway I paid the technician and he released me a paper for the warranty on its job....
For sure he's not able to recover this.
But what you do you suggest? is it possible I can ask him to buy me a new amp8? I have the purchase receipt of everthing: amp8 was new, bought in january by advancedmp3 uk, the various capacitors by Mouser....How can I manage this situation to get some chance to limit my money expense? How can I say him "hey you are not able to do your job" since I'm not a technician...

I would just swallow the cost of a new Amp8, and ask the tech to perform labor again for free.

Try to think from the point of view of the technician . You can totally bring him a storm and he would have to buy you a new Amp8, but it also mean that he will just refuse any similar works to be performed again for anyone else ?

 

[Whitigir]

This has been long overdue! An upgraded cables for my HD800S.

The reason : well, I was stuck with stock cables for the Most neutral and stock sound signatures, so that I could tune the DX200 to the best that I could, which resulted in DX208Ti-EX, and there is also a way to upgrade regular DX200 and Amp8 into DX208-EX. I made a thread just specially for that Modifications

Here is an upgraded cables I finally pulled the string: Norne Litz UPOCC with cotton core, and Furutech Rhodium plated 4.4mm/800 connectors ! Ss47 solder ofcourse

 

[EggofSound]

I would just swallow the cost of a new Amp8, and ask the tech to perform labor again for free.

Try to think from the point of view of the technician . You can totally bring him a storm and he would have to buy you a new Amp8, but it also mean that he will just refuse any similar works to be performed again for anyone else ?

Tantalum seems to be damaged by overheating more than necessary.
I think that the connection of 100uF is not enough.
Is it possible to negotiate exchanging 4 tantalums (AVX 10V 22uF 1206 10%) and reattaching 100uF for troubles occurring to engineers?
It might be far more reliable to remove 4 tantalums and work than adding 100uF.

----
My opinion below may be a mistake.
There is little possibility that tantalum is generating noise due to heat damage.
Experience, tantalum will break down to static without generating noise (it can be broken in short mode so you can bake it with smoke)
Even if 100uF lead is away from the pad of tantalum and sufficient contact is not obtained (even if it is conducting with solder) the possibility of noise generation is small.

Due to overheating, invisible parts under 100uF may float and noise may be generated.
It may have been caused by the exchange of 470uF or it may be behind the PCB.
It might be better to prepare a new AMP 8 from the above risks.

It is not a possibility because we are not looking at actual work.
My opinion may be wrong.

 

[Bluess]

Guys, thank you all for your help.

yes, the bzzzzz is listenable during the silence. But, with one exception: DSD 512 conversions. I noticed the song converted in DSD512 (maybe because in this is need the maximum power) are simply not listenable because the bzzzzz is higher than the music. Changing the amp, there is no problem so the problem is the amp.

And, guys, I believe the job has not been done in the right way....I think the technician is a butcher ! He also told me " I did not use your solder, 'cause it's too much 'thick' " (since I provide him the SS-47 Oyaide solder...).
Here some shots (and pls note what I circled in red: the little Yellow piece is "moving", it's also broken if i touch it, in fact the contact indicated by the red Arrow is almost broken too...in fact if I try to stand up that capacitor I'm sure it will rest in my hand....):

That's some bad soldier work there where did you get that guy, I'm an amateur and even work better than this. Just did the mod for a fellow in town for just 25$ including the materials.
I suggest that you request a new amp model, making the guy with such skills to redo it would be a waste of time.

 

[gannjunior]

I'm so sorrowful guys....And for sure I will stay without AMP8...Buy another one means extra 220-230 eur (amp+new capacitors by Mouser, they cost few eur but I have to pay a fix shipping of 20 eur...)...This would mean AMP8 mod would cost me totally more almost 450 eur...This is not acceptable for me now...

What is also strange is why the noise is maximum during DSD512 playback. In this case the noise is higher than the music. In the other case the noise is "limited" during the silence o during the search when I tuche the LCD....

 

[Whitigir]

I have just posted Part 3 on the EX modifications: this part has nothing to do with the tuning of sound, but basically making the DX200 to be more efficient. Ofcourse, by doing this, the sound also receive some improvements across the board

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/dx208-ex-modifications.898918/#post-14762704

 

[EggofSound]

I have just posted Part 3 on the EX modifications: this part has nothing to do with the tuning of sound, but basically making the DX200 to be more efficient. Ofcourse, by doing this, the sound also receive some improvements across the board

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/dx208-ex-modifications.898918/#post-14762704

Mr. Whitigir.

Okay. I was eager to make time to exchange and exchange only the analog (AMP) part that you can expect the greatest effect when inspired by you.
You can not wait for DX220 Sending out information You are a bad person

Thank you.

 

[twister6]

I have just posted Part 3 on the EX modifications: this part has nothing to do with the tuning of sound, but basically making the DX200 to be more efficient. Ofcourse, by doing this, the sound also receive some improvements across the board

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/dx208-ex-modifications.898918/#post-14762704

Don't forget to bring your modded amps to NYC Can't wait to hear it

 

[Whitigir]

Don't forget to bring your modded amps to NYC Can't wait to hear it

I will definitely bring it , the whole DX208Ti-EX.