[Fernando Goñi]

I'd suggest you to try to return back to Android 6.01, 2.10.215-L0. There is fullflash build exactly to return from Oreo. This way you'll tell hardware from software problem.

Thanks Lurker0, I'll try tonight. Hope it solves it!!

 

[edwardsean]

Oh, Whitigir can correct any of this. So far, the only thing I'm an expert in is finding new amp8 modules as fast as I can.

Whitigir did his amp8 mod without a preheater because, you know, he's Whitigir and he doesn't need no stinkin' preheater.

 

[icefalkon]

Yeah, I’ll be there. If everything goes to plan, I’ll have my DX208EX to compare with the new 220 at the iBasso booth, if they bring it.[/QUOTE

Cool come by the booth and introduce yourself. I always put my head-fi name on the back of my badge at these shows anyway. I certainly hope we get to show off all the new products! I'm bringing the SR1, my DX150, DX200, and all the AMP cartridges...as well as the IT04's, IT01's, IT01s and my aftermarket cables.

 

[Whitigir]

Cool come by the booth and introduce yourself. I always put my head-fi name on the back of my badge at these shows anyway. I certainly hope we get to show off all the new products! I'm bringing the SR1, my DX150, DX200, and all the AMP cartridges...as well as the IT04's, IT01's, IT01s and my aftermarket cables.

And Amp8W too ?

 

[icefalkon]

And Amp8W too ?

But of course Vince! LOL I can't wait to show off your magical skills!

 

[EggofSound]

You already got the first part right. You're looking for a good tech instead of trying to do it yourself. I'm reasonably good with a soldering iron so I thought I could handle the job, but it requires hot air reflowing, which really is its own skill. So find a tech who has experience in using a hot air rework station on surface mount components. You don't have to know what this is but If the tech doesn't know what this is do not give him your amp! If he tells you, "But, I'm reasonably good with a soldering iron," do not give him your amp!

Once you find someone who can do SMD board work they will most likely never have handled anything as delicate as the amp8 module. They've worked on hundreds or thousands of laptops, iPhones, playstations, etc. and so they assume this little board will be easy. They assume wrong. My tech has about a decade of surface mount experience and he wrecked my amp8 and told me that the traces are 2-3X more sensitive than anything he's ever seen. Tell your tech this: "The traces on this board are 2-3X more sensitive than anything you've ever seen. The pads are fragile and can easily lift off the board."

If your tech has a station with a preheater that is going to be a big help, though not absolutely necessary. My tech set his preheater to 200°C and the hot air gun to 240°C. However, these are not absolute figures at all. A different technique will change this and these display temps may not be all that accurate.

Here is the best advice I can give you, which may not really be right for you: Kiss your amp1 goodbye and give it to the tech. If I were exactly in your shoes, I would sacrifice my stock amp1 and let the tech practice on it to find the right temperatures, how quickly to ramp it up, and what the board and components will tolerate. Better that he lifts a pad or breaks a trace or fries a part on the amp1 than on the amp8. As I said, this may not be the right move for you. For me, once I got the amp8, amp1 never saw the light of day again. So, I would've gladly wrecked my amp1 instead of 2 amp8 modules–gladly.

All the best to you.

I replaced the 100 uF with a 20 W soldering iron and did not remove the chip tantalum.
Chip tantalum is weak against heat and easily broken, so we do not recommend reflowing again if possible.

We recommend that you ask for specialized services.
(Do not ask a trader named 2-3 X sensitive)

Doing it works.

 

[gannjunior]

I replaced the 100 uF with a 20 W soldering iron and did not remove the chip tantalum.
Chip tantalum is weak against heat and easily broken, so we do not recommend reflowing again if possible.

Hi mate,
could you pls translate in image what you are saying pls (in particulare the bold text)? I think this could be a good advice I can refer to the hypotetical welder.
And what about the orange one? also that could be replaced with a 20W soldering?

PS Till now the people I spoken and asked for the work they told something like "I don't want to use this solder, since it needs too much heat"....they refer to the solder SS-47 Oyaide that I bought for the job....

Thank u!

 

[EggofSound]

Hi mate,
could you pls translate in image what you are saying pls (in particulare the bold text)? I think this could be a good advice I can refer to the hypotetical welder.
And what about the orange one? also that could be replaced with a 20W soldering?

PS Till now the people I spoken and asked for the work they told something like "I don't want to use this solder, since it needs too much heat"....they refer to the solder SS-47 Oyaide that I bought for the job....

Thank u!

There is no part that can be explained with images.
However, SS-47 is not a reflow solder.

Do not think deeply, just exchange 100uF.
(chip Tantalum is not removed. Removing it will be a difficult task like your question)

Oyaide is introducing SS-47 as "It's easy to get on with solder and because its melting point is not high, it will be easy to flush and will melt normally even at the same temperature as that containing lead."
Because the spacing between the parts is narrow, we used a thin 20W soldering iron at the tip.

I think that simple is good.

 

[jamato8]

I have soldered for many years with stuff down to just about the size of dust (I hate soldering things that small, just a hassle) and didn't find doing the AMP8 hard. Tight space between the tants yes, but that is why you have different tips. For small areas sometimes people go with too small a tip, thinking that is what they need to use but it won't conduct enough heat fast enough but of course you can't use too late a tip. I have many tips and each has a purpose, and what I use as a general all around tip. Also for things like this, have a small amount of solder on your tip so the transfer is fast and you get a good flow but when taking something off, this allows for a fast melt of the previous solder. Also many of the "new" solders when finished are hard and harder than in the past to remelt so the bit of solder on a tip is needed. Many of the new formulas due to changes in requirements that do not allow lead, have a higher melting temp and once done, can be a bear to get to reflow. But it all words out. I haven't lifted any traces on the AMP boards and the last time I lifted a trace was a few years ago but I expected to since it was a strange situation but normally it is a wrong technique that causes this.

Also I don't use hot air and can't see the need on these boards. For a multi legged chip but not these boards, well it would be nice if you are replacing op amps but not caps.

 

[Whitigir]

To apply EX modifications, the Amp8 will need 16 upgrade capacitors , and hot air station is recommended.

I don’t think SS47 is that horrible, it is actually my preferences for both workability and sound quality. If anyone says SS47 is hard....then forget him , and never looked back

 

[deniska80]

My amp8 mod total burn in time is About 60-70h.
I think I like current signature but now I have a looot of sibilance. Especially when there are cymbals in song. And in songs of my favorite 5fdp for now there are a lot of cymbals and I hear a lot of tssss, psss, pshhhhh...it does affect bass line very much for me...

 

[Whitigir]

That is when you would want the MLCC my friend *the blue one as @EggofSound showned**

 

[deniska80]

That is when you would want the MLCC my friend *the blue one as @EggofSound showned**

Yes. I think Now I’m ready for it. I’ll ask my colleague to solder it.

 

[EggofSound]

To apply EX modifications, the Amp8 will need 16 upgrade capacitors , and hot air station is recommended.

I don’t think SS47 is that horrible, it is actually my preferences for both workability and sound quality. If anyone says SS47 is hard....then forget him , and never looked back

Please tell me.
What is EX modifications like to replace chip capacitors with laminated metallized PPS film capacitors?

 

[gannjunior]

guys,
MLCC is the only one I did not bought 'cause wat not available in Mouser and because seemed, from the guide, quite an "optional"...
But from your messages I'm understanding it's better to replace it..