Just another vote for the Furutech. I tried other 4.4 plugs, but the Furutech sounded the best. The tech they use seems to actually make a difference and isnt’t just marketing. No spacers needed.
Me, I’m sucker for the carbon fiber, and for the markup in price.
I got mine also from Moon Audio. Shipping is fast and you can be sure that it’s genuine Furutech.
iBasso sends little plastic spacers with their 4.4mm cables and adapters so audio will come out of both channels. Some 4.4mm plugs are to long so they don't make the correct contact. I've not seen the spacers anywhere else.
iBasso sends little plastic spacers with their 4.4mm cables and adapters so audio will come out of both channels. Some 4.4mm plugs are to long so they don't make the correct contact. I've not seen the spacers anywhere else.
This is an issue with third party manufacturers creating plugs that are to long. iBasso uses a NIPPON DICS Pentaconn brand 4.4mm socket. I don't believe it is their fault.
Guys, just received my AMP8 modified by a techinician I found near my city in Italy. (replaced the orange siemens with the nichicon and the fourth grey with the Nippon and applied).
The TK sheet noise were already applied by myself.
The AMP8 mod still needs the "at least 24 hrs of burn-in after the mod" but of course I did a quick run just to check if it worked.
And it works, the sound seems already improved just now without burn in, but. But, but: I noticed a "bzzzzzz" in the background when the player is paused. Just the typical "bzzzz" when a cable is not plugged in or for example when there are problems of groud wire. When I start again the play it seems to disappear but it's not so easy to understand because of the music running.
For sure that "bzzz" in the same condition was not present before the mod.
Is it normal after the mod and will "disappear" after the burn-in or do I have to suspect the work of the techician was not perfectly done?
Guys, just received my AMP8 modified by a techinician I found near my city in Italy. (replaced the orange siemens with the nichicon and the fourth grey with the Nippon and applied).
The TK sheet noise were already applied by myself.
The AMP8 mod still need the "at least 24 hrs of burn-in after the mod" but of course I did a quick run just to check if it worked.
And it works, the sound seems already improved just now without burn in, but. But, but: I noticed a "bzzzzzz" in the background when the player is paused. Just the typical "bzzzz" when a cable is not plugged in or for example when there are problems of groud wire. When I start again the play it seems to disappear but it's not so easy to understand because of the music running.
For sure that "bzzz" in the same condition was not present before the mod.
Is it normal after the mod and will "disappear" after the burn-in or do I have to suspect the work of the techician was not perfectly done?
Hey mate, no hard reset has been yet done for now.
Just noticed that the "buzzz" is more pronunced when I am into Mango.
Into Android mode is better.
I can add you more consistent feedback now.
My 512 DSD conversions are clearly un-listenable. The noise is so high(in particular with high gain) that is higher than the music. And in general all DSD from 64 and higher are clearly noiser. For example if I listen a blues song, during the silence, you can notice the "bzzz"...
There is the bzzzz even when I move into the player with the touch with everything in pause, if I do any kind of operation it begins to bzzzzz....
But simply move from "AMP8 mod" to another module (AMP1 or AMP3) I don't have any of the mentioned problems before....
Hey mate, no hard reset has been yet done for now.
Just noticed that the "buzzz" is more pronunced when I am into Mango.
Into Android mode is better.
I can add you more consistent feedback now.
My 512 DSD conversions are clearly un-listenable. The noise is so high(in particular with high gain) that is higher than the music. And in general all DSD from 64 and higher are clearly noiser. For example if I listen a blues song, during the silence, you can notice the "bzzz"...
There is the bzzzz even when I move into the player with the touch with everything in pause, if I do any kind of operation it begins to bzzzzz....
But simply move from "AMP8 mod" to another module (AMP1 or AMP3) I don't have any of the mentioned problems before....
I'm sorry to hear about this. I know how unsettling these issues are.
When you say the noise is higher than the music, do you mean that the noise is actually louder than the music? I'm trying to understand what you're hearing, because then you say that you notice the "bzzz" during silence. Can you describe just how loud the buzzing is? Also is it a buzzing like when a connection is improperly grounded or is it more of a crackle? Does it sound digitally generated to you or electrical?
Hey mate, no hard reset has been yet done for now.
Just noticed that the "buzzz" is more pronunced when I am into Mango.
Into Android mode is better.
I can add you more consistent feedback now.
My 512 DSD conversions are clearly un-listenable. The noise is so high(in particular with high gain) that is higher than the music. And in general all DSD from 64 and higher are clearly noiser. For example if I listen a blues song, during the silence, you can notice the "bzzz"...
There is the bzzzz even when I move into the player with the touch with everything in pause, if I do any kind of operation it begins to bzzzzz....
But simply move from "AMP8 mod" to another module (AMP1 or AMP3) I don't have any of the mentioned problems before....
If the noise "bzzz" is larger than the music, there is a possibility that the power supply is connected to the signal line.
If the power supply is short-circuited, problems may occur with battery consumption or DX 200 start-up. It does not seem to be in a short condition.
In a suspicious place, I think that it is necessary to check whether the lead solder of the four capacitors is in contact with nearby parts(Possibility of being in contact with the back register etc.)
If the noise "bzzz" is larger than the music, there is a possibility that the power supply is connected to the signal line.
If the power supply is short-circuited, problems may occur with battery consumption or DX 200 start-up. It does not seem to be in a short condition.
In a suspicious place, I think that it is necessary to check whether the lead solder of the four capacitors is in contact with nearby parts(Possibility of being in contact with the back register etc.)
I would agree with the possibility of a short circuit. You should take a magnifying glass and see if you can spot a stray splatter or bead of solder that may be causing a short. Vince, also said that the the a fleck of the TDK sheeting could cause a short as well. If you don't have a magnifying glass, just use your phone camera and zoom in.
I would agree with the possibility of a short circuit. You should take a magnifying glass and see if you can spot a stray splatter or bead of solder that may be causing a short. Vince, also said that the the a fleck of the TDK sheeting could cause a short as well. If you don't have a magnifying glass, just use your phone camera and zoom in.
There is a possibility that the cut surface of the isolation sheet in which you mentioned as the cause of noise is in contact with other parts.
Please remove the AMP 8 so as not to damage the parts carefully check the problem.
The have been a lot of really great and supportive threads on headfi, and some “not so great or helpful.” But, this is the best I’ve ever been part of.
yes, the bzzzzz is listenable during the silence. But, with one exception: DSD 512 conversions. I noticed the song converted in DSD512 (maybe because in this is need the maximum power) are simply not listenable because the bzzzzz is higher than the music. Changing the amp, there is no problem so the problem is the amp.
And, guys, I believe the job has not been done in the right way....I think the technician is a butcher ! He also told me " I did not use your solder, 'cause it's too much 'thick' " (since I provide him the SS-47 Oyaide solder...).
Here some shots (and pls note what I circled in red: the little Yellow piece is "moving", it's also broken if i touch it, in fact the contact indicated by the red Arrow is almost broken too...in fact if I try to stand up that capacitor I'm sure it will rest in my hand....):
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