[JohnSantana]

I'm not sure if the power of the EMI disturbance is large enough to affect the main power signal. Usually EMI interferes with data signals because they're amplified during output.

Ah ok, so in this case getting expensive Nordost cable is just for "aesthetic" looking only I guess

I was looking for something to upgrade to improve Sound Quality, so far I haven't upgrade the power cable, apart from putting all of the power adaptor plugs into Belkin Surge Protector to ensure the electric signal is clean.

 

[Griploc]

Ah ok, so in this case getting expensive Nordost cable is just for "aesthetic" looking only I guess

I was looking for something to upgrade to improve Sound Quality, so far I haven't upgrade the power cable, apart from putting all of the power adaptor plugs into Belkin Surge Protector to ensure the electric signal is clean.

Perhaps contact James at http://www.stefanaudioart.com website. He knows a lot about power cables.

 

[chicken beer]

I like the discussion here. Well I suggest get a nice power cable, and a nice power cable means it's reasonably thick, and don't go south of 20 dollars. (headphones and home-use speakers don't need that much power, and power cables themselves provide power, not signal. Good signal-related cables are more important)

 

[chicken beer]

Maybe raise the bar to 50 bucks. Just noticed tri-12AWG power cable usually cost 10 bucks per feet...

 

[NorCal]

I'd suggest having a dedicated line from the panel to your system, (vs. an expensive power cord, garbage in = garbage out).

Our house is wired with 14 gauge in the walls, but I had a dedicated 12 gauge run, on its own breaker added for the home theater, which I consider to be more cost effective, (but the access was easy for my case).

For my bedroom/headphone setup, it would be even cheaper, as I'm only 20 feet, (~ 6 meters from the main panel). Probably won't do this, but would definitely do it before "upgrading" a power cable.

I mean what's a 9 gauge power cable going to do, plugged into a 14 gauge wall socket?

 

[chicken beer]

I'd suggest having a dedicated line from the panel to your system, (vs. an expensive power cord, garbage in = garbage out).

Our house is wired with 14 gauge in the walls, but I had a dedicated 12 gauge run, on its own breaker added for the home theater, which I consider to be more cost effective, (but the access was easy for my case).

For my bedroom/headphone setup, it would be even cheaper, as I'm only 20 feet, (~ 6 meters from the main panel). Probably won't do this, but would definitely do it before "upgrading" a power cable.

I mean what's a 9 gauge power cable going to do, plugged into a 14 gauge wall socket?

I see!! Totally makes sense! Thank you~~

 

[Speedskater]

I mean what's a 9 gauge power cable going to do, plugged into a 14 gauge wall socket?

Almost nothing! It's all about total end-to-end resistance, with one end being that big power company transformer down the street and the other end is your hi-fi component.

Now electricians sometimes need to use oversized conductors for:
a] Very long runs.
b] High ambient temperatures.
c] High conduit fill.

Nothing wrong with oversizing the conductors on a new install, but it's not cost or effort justified on an un-needed replacement.

 

[skwoodwiva]

Almost nothing! It's all about total end-to-end resistance, with one end being that big power company transformer down the street and the other end is your hi-fi component.

Now electricians sometimes need to use oversized conductors for:
a] Very long runs.
b] High ambient temperatures.
c] High conduit fill.

Nothing wrong with oversizing the conductors on a new install, but it's not cost or effort justified on an un-needed replacement.

True that, but on DC side, Caps Caps Caps!!
Did I say Caps?
I had a drawer full of 63k uF 30 of them for each amp , one amp per speaker.
The house dimmed when I powered the TA\n90 es's 2 of them.
What glorious punch it had after that mod.

 

[chicken beer]

True that, but on DC side, Caps Caps Caps!!
Did I say Caps?
I had a drawer full of 63k uF 30 of them for each amp , one amp per speaker.
The house dimmed when I powered the TA\n90 es's 2 of them.
What glorious punch it had after that mod.

The way you say caps is like the way I say the F word, nice!

 

[skwoodwiva]

DeOxit
Is fabulous for getting the juice from old outlets & plugs

 

[chicken beer]

DeOxit
Is fabulous for getting the juice from old outlets & plugs

Actually, coke is even better for that purpose and it's cheap.

 

[Speedskater]

True that, but on DC side, Caps Caps Caps!!
Did I say Caps?
I had a drawer full of 63k uF 30 of them for each amp , one amp per speaker.
The house dimmed when I powered the TA\n90 es's 2 of them.
What glorious punch it had after that mod.

Yep, I have had amps like that. Had to replace the power switch twice. And they can be real hard on the bridge rectifier. A soft or slow start circuit would have been nice.

Having big DC supply caps can be good, but we quickly get into diminishing returns.

 

[chicken beer]

Yep, I have had amps like that. Had to replace the power switch twice. And they can be real hard on the bridge rectifier. A soft or slow start circuit would have been nice.

Having big DC supply caps can be good, but we quickly get into diminishing returns.

'Diminishing returns'... what popped out of my mind was 'diminishing repurchases'. I think it should be the user's liability if he blew up the cable by using it above the advertised specs.

 

[skwoodwiva]

'Diminishing returns'... what popped out of my mind was 'diminishing repurchases'. I think it should be the user's liability if he blew up the cable by using it above the advertised specs.

These TA/n s were SOTA in '94. Relay delay, protection galore.
It was @amn extream yet I also biased the input potentiometer as make them run class A also. Doublind the heatsinks as well. Wild! I was 35 had the time. A former EE major.
TA/n90es showcase
https://redirect.viglink.com/?forma...tronics/sony/power-amplifier/ta-n90es-1-sony/

 

[Speedskater]

'Diminishing returns'... what popped out of my mind was 'diminishing repurchases'. I think it should be the user's liability if he blew up the cable by using it above the advertised specs.

While you can blow-up the fuse, the rectifier switch and the power switch, you can't blow-up a reasonable amp power cord.

What I meant by 'diminishing returns' was: Some increase of the power supply capacitors can be good, but after doubling their size there is nothing more to be gained.