DIY Earbuds
Dec 15, 2018 at 4:21 AM Post #751 of 4,682
Hey guys,
How do you solder copper wires ?
I recently bought "WBT-0800 Silver Solder" but it works well only for silver (logic..) but not copper.
When I try: copper does not attach from solder to copper wires, the ball just "slides" :frowning2:
Do I need to buy some cu0.7 ?


Maybe try a bit of mild Flux, to help clean the wire, which should allow better wetting of the solder.
I've been using WBT Silver Solder for years, mainly on copper wire (tinned & untinned), and IC chips.
 
Dec 15, 2018 at 4:38 AM Post #752 of 4,682
Maybe try a bit of mild Flux, to help clean the wire, which should allow better wetting of the solder.
I've been using WBT Silver Solder for years, mainly on copper wire (tinned & untinned), and IC chips.
Can you please share to me a link of the product to see how it looks please ?
Cheers
 
Dec 15, 2018 at 7:47 AM Post #753 of 4,682
Hey guys,
How do you solder copper wires ?
I recently bought "WBT-0800 Silver Solder" but it works well only for silver (logic..) but not copper.
When I try: copper does not attach from solder to copper wires, the ball just "slides" :frowning2:
Do I need to buy some cu0.7 ?
sounds like your copper wire is "enamelled" copper wire.. usually more flux paste and longer soldering time with higher temperature helps a lot..
 
Dec 15, 2018 at 12:16 PM Post #755 of 4,682
Dec 15, 2018 at 1:31 PM Post #756 of 4,682
sounds like your copper wire is "enamelled" copper wire.. usually more flux paste and longer soldering time with higher temperature helps a lot..
Many thanks, I tried this and it just worked perfectly. I ordered (before trying this) a cu0.7 solding wire, so I will give a try to see if it helps too (for the fun).

To melt the "enamelled" of the copper wire, I make a melted solder ball attached to the iron tip and then dip the wire for some seconds into the solder ball until the "enamelled" melts.
After that the wire is good to solder.
Thanks for sharing this useful tips, I will try your method next time :)

I think I've got some of this liquid flux - https://www.frys.com/product/8697820
Flux is also available as a paste - https://www.frys.com/product/6479492
Many thanks, I will give a look
 
Dec 15, 2018 at 2:22 PM Post #757 of 4,682
Many thanks, I tried this and it just worked perfectly. I ordered (before trying this) a cu0.7 solding wire, so I will give a try to see if it helps too (for the fun).


Thanks for sharing this useful tips, I will try your method next time :)


Many thanks, I will give a look
you're welcome,
that's ok for soldering plugs pcbs etc. but when you solder that cable to the an earbud driver please prefer @Merlin-PT's method; since drivers don't like high temperatures and long soldering, it's more secure for them :wink:
 
Dec 28, 2018 at 5:29 PM Post #758 of 4,682
Todays creations:

PK2 32 ohm driver:
PK2_32_ohm.jpg

MX500 300 ohm:

MX500_300_ohm.jpg
 
Jan 6, 2019 at 6:56 PM Post #760 of 4,682
Hello, I forgot about this thread.

Something I do these days when I re-assemble the bud, is to put a thin width of surgical tape over the body/cover gap rather than glue them together.
I find it provides a more consistent air pressure seal. Easier than applying glue. And easier to take apart the buds again.
It looks ugly until the foams go on. Then no one will know it's there.
Works for me, and road-tested fine for past 2 years; never came apart.

Tape.jpg
 
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Jan 7, 2019 at 3:07 AM Post #762 of 4,682
Hello, I forgot about this thread.

Something I do these days when I re-assemble the bud, is to put a thin width of surgical tape over the body/cover gap rather than glue them together.
I find it provides a more consistent air pressure seal. Easier than applying glue. And easier to take apart the buds again.
It looks ugly until the foams go on. Then no one will know it's there.
Works for me, and road-tested fine for past 2 years; never came apart.

Do you mean during the laying of the grill (usually which contains the speaker) on the shells ? or once everything is in place ?
(not sure on the picture as I don't know this shell :frowning2: )
 
Jan 7, 2019 at 3:41 AM Post #763 of 4,682
Do you mean during the laying of the grill (usually which contains the speaker) on the shells ? or once everything is in place ?
(not sure on the picture as I don't know this shell :frowning2: )

After you re-assemble everything together. The cover/grill and body usually snaps into place even without any glue, so just lay a thin strip of the surgical tape around the circumference and then work the sides of the tape down with you fingers. It was originally suppose to be a temporary thing, but it worked so well I put them on all the buds I assemble.

It's a white E808+ shell.
 
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Jan 7, 2019 at 3:56 AM Post #764 of 4,682
After you re-assemble everything together. The cover/grill and body usually snaps into place even without any glue, so just lay a thin strip of the surgical tape around the circumference and then work the sides of the tape down with you fingers. It was originally suppose to be a temporary thing, but it worked so well I put them on all the buds I assemble.

It's a white E808+ shell.
Ok now I see, thank you very much for clarifying :)
I'll try that and report :)
 
Jan 7, 2019 at 4:59 AM Post #765 of 4,682
Ok now I see, thank you very much for clarifying :)
I'll try that and report :)
I don't think there should be any sonic improvements, unless it was leaking terribly at the cover/body gap in the first place.
Main thing for me was, it was easier to assemble & disassemble the buds. It made correcting mistakes easier.
 

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