DIY Earbuds
Jul 5, 2017 at 2:29 AM Post #436 of 4,707
Jul 6, 2017 at 8:42 AM Post #437 of 4,707
Hey. I'm building some earbuds today and I've noted all my MX500's shells are blocked at this air channel which I thought it should be an acoustic design when Sennheiser designed it:

I have an original Sennheiser MX500 from back in the day and wanted to post a photo.
They don't have those holes.
Sorry for bad photo light, color is not natural.
MX500#1.jpg
 
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Jul 6, 2017 at 3:21 PM Post #438 of 4,707
Sounds great, though unfortunately I cannot see it:triportsad:

I managed to unscrew my other pair, only to arrive at some black stuff that seems like its not meant ever to be removed. Its also clear there is no screw mecanism at all, the shell is just fitting firmly on this black stuff, and maybe glued on to it

IMG_0662.jpg

The challenge for me is to identify the 2 grounds out of the 4, I don't see those colors as cqtek does.

If you want to cut the cable to replace the jack and the cable has no colors, you could cut 1 conductor at a time and see with a multimeter were it connects to the old jack.
Take notes and mark all the wires, so you'll know were to solder in the new jack.

Continuity test:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuity_test
http://en-us.fluke.com/training/tra...for-continuity-with-a-digital-multimeter.html
 
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Jul 6, 2017 at 3:58 PM Post #439 of 4,707
If you want to cut the cable to replace the jack and the cable has no colors, you could cut 1 conductor at a time and see with a multimeter were it connects to the old jack.
Take notes and mark all the wires, so you'll know were to solder in the new jack.

Continuity test:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuity_test
http://en-us.fluke.com/training/tra...for-continuity-with-a-digital-multimeter.html
Thanks Merlin-PT, would you agree it would be the lower right setting for this? It beeps when I shortwire. Sorry for noob question
IMG_0663.jpg
 
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Jul 7, 2017 at 4:38 PM Post #441 of 4,707
I have an original Sennheiser MX500 from back in the day and wanted to post a photo.
They don't have those holes.
Sorry for bad photo light, color is not natural.

Thank you for your post! So I guess it's just an aesthetic thing.

Although, it looks moddable and you can get more bass or a different tune opening it. But after seeing this picture you really need to put some effort to make it correctly:

7pxMaQ9kQU_zuc7_W5QFzA.png

If we try opening it just using a mini drill doing a straight line probably will not finish well haha.
 
Jul 7, 2017 at 4:48 PM Post #442 of 4,707
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Jul 7, 2017 at 9:20 PM Post #443 of 4,707
Thank you for your post! So I guess it's just an aesthetic thing.

Although, it looks moddable and you can get more bass or a different tune opening it. But after seeing this picture you really need to put some effort to make it correctly:

7pxMaQ9kQU_zuc7_W5QFzA.png

If we try opening it just using a mini drill doing a straight line probably will not finish well haha.

I have tried drilling out the hole before and it didn't turn out well. I used a 1/16" bit and by the time I got through the plastic wall I also started coming out the top of the shell. Not saying it is impossible, but that was my experience trying it one day. I wouldn't assume that this mod would enhance bass as a rule. It might on some earbuds, but it will depend on the driver and existing tuning used. If I had to guess I'd say it is more likely that it raises the response in the entire mid range and bleeds into the bass, but mostly more bloated mids. I say this because this is what will happen if you remove all the dampening material from an earbud, leading to more airflow out of the shell through the existing holes. You also get the same effect if you open an RX1 and remove one or more of the pieces of mesh tape covering the shell vents. Here are some FR graphs showing the differences between a stock RX1 and an RX1 with one port opened up:

rx1-stock-vs-rsx-port-mod-frequency-response.png
rx1-stock-vs-port-mod-volume-matched.png

Edit: just wanted to add that from my experiences measuring earbud tuning mods, I've found that too little dampening will result in raising the mid range, but having a steeper bass roll off. Too much dampening will lower the mid range and also have a steep bass roll off. To get the best bass extension you need to find the right balance, and that is entirely dependent on the driver, so some tunings work well for some drivers and not so well with others.
 
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Jul 8, 2017 at 8:37 PM Post #444 of 4,707
I have tried drilling out the hole before and it didn't turn out well. I used a 1/16" bit and by the time I got through the plastic wall I also started coming out the top of the shell. Not saying it is impossible, but that was my experience trying it one day. I wouldn't assume that this mod would enhance bass as a rule. It might on some earbuds, but it will depend on the driver and existing tuning used. If I had to guess I'd say it is more likely that it raises the response in the entire mid range and bleeds into the bass, but mostly more bloated mids. I say this because this is what will happen if you remove all the dampening material from an earbud, leading to more airflow out of the shell through the existing holes. You also get the same effect if you open an RX1 and remove one or more of the pieces of mesh tape covering the shell vents. Here are some FR graphs showing the differences between a stock RX1 and an RX1 with one port opened up:



Edit: just wanted to add that from my experiences measuring earbud tuning mods, I've found that too little dampening will result in raising the mid range, but having a steeper bass roll off. Too much dampening will lower the mid range and also have a steep bass roll off. To get the best bass extension you need to find the right balance, and that is entirely dependent on the driver, so some tunings work well for some drivers and not so well with others.

Oh cool! I forgot to say it, I didn't mean it instantly will instantly improve anything since there are many variables like you said. But I really appreciate your finds! Certainly, it's helping a lot!

Btw, I've tried this mod with an RX1 and I just think they're a solid 6/10 earbud independent of the mod or opening the ports, although, I'd rate them as 7/10 using them at low volumes. There's another option which is adding a rubber ring to improve the seal and then improving the bass (depending on the ear shape), but I think it won't save its artificial timbre IMO. Also, I thought RX1 drivers would fit in a Yuin shell but the driver is ~1mm smaller so my "transplant" didn't turn out well. Do you find some good result with your RX1?
 
Jul 8, 2017 at 8:50 PM Post #445 of 4,707
Oh cool! I forgot to say it, I didn't mean it instantly will instantly improve anything since there are many variables like you said. But I really appreciate your finds! Certainly, it's helping a lot!

Btw, I've tried this mod with an RX1 and I just think they're a solid 6/10 earbud independent of the mod or opening the ports, although, I'd rate them as 7/10 using them at low volumes. There's another option which is adding a rubber ring to improve the seal and then improving the bass (depending on the ear shape), but I think it won't save its artificial timbre IMO. Also, I thought RX1 drivers would fit in a Yuin shell but the driver is ~1mm smaller so my "transplant" didn't turn out well. Do you find some good result with your RX1?

I haven't tried anything else with the RX1 and didn't like the result of opening up one of the ports. Another head-fier pm'd me about the RX1 mod so I tried it and measured the result, but didn't get around to trying anything else on it. My RX1 is now scrapped. I sanded down the sides of the driver covers when testing them in a DIY piano forte I'm working on :)

Thanks for mentioning that the RX1 drivers are 1mm smaller than the yuin size. I love knowing about stuff like that. I was thinking they might be interchangeable as well.
 
Jul 11, 2017 at 7:25 AM Post #446 of 4,707
I haven't tried anything else with the RX1 and didn't like the result of opening up one of the ports. Another head-fier pm'd me about the RX1 mod so I tried it and measured the result, but didn't get around to trying anything else on it. My RX1 is now scrapped. I sanded down the sides of the driver covers when testing them in a DIY piano forte I'm working on :)

Thanks for mentioning that the RX1 drivers are 1mm smaller than the yuin size. I love knowing about stuff like that. I was thinking they might be interchangeable as well.

Is that Piano Forte an IEM, correct? It's must be a cool project! I have made something similar with the Mrice E100 housing, once it has a similar horn shape it was cool to see the influence on the sound depending on the driver, I got amazing results at treble extension (using 300Ohms and H180 drivers) - like cymbals most realistic. However, the fit becomes more tricky than the MX500 shell to get the full potential. I'd imagine this Piano Forte has a similar idea and probably an amazing sound.

Out of curiosity, I've heard from Henry (Cyperus) using metal housing isn't a good idea sound-wise, I'd guess due to the sound would reflect much more inside than plastic or wood causing a trade-off, which makes sense since it's really rare see a speaker or instrument using another thing besides wood and non-metal materials. But maybe for earbuds or IEMs the sound can get a pleasant timbre for some with the right tuning, like MrZ/Toneking lineup.

My next projects I really want to try some wood shells and figure out if there's a big difference in the timbre. The hard call now is to find out a person with some CNC machine or a skilled luthier, lol.
 
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Jul 11, 2017 at 10:14 AM Post #447 of 4,707
Is that Piano Forte an IEM, correct? It's must be a cool project! I have made something similar with the Mrice E100 housing, once it has a similar horn shape it was cool to see the influence on the sound depending on the driver, I got amazing results at treble extension (using 300Ohms and H180 drivers) - like cymbals most realistic. However, the fit becomes more tricky than the MX500 shell to get the full potential. I'd imagine this Piano Forte has a similar idea and probably an amazing sound.

Out of curiosity, I've heard from Henry (Cyperus) using metal housing isn't a good idea sound-wise, I'd guess due to the sound would reflect much more inside than plastic or wood causing a trade-off, which makes sense since it's really rare see a speaker or instrument using another thing besides wood and non-metal materials. But maybe for earbuds or IEMs the sound can get a pleasant timbre for some with the right tuning, like MrZ/Toneking lineup.

My next projects I really want to try some wood shells and figure out if there's a big difference in the timbre. The hard call now is to find out a person with some CNC machine or a skilled luthier, lol.

I think most people consider the Piano Forte to be an IEM, but it doesn't use silicone tips or have a seal at all, so it is kind of a hybrid between an earbud and IEM. It's presentation of the sound and also comfort are much more in line with an earbud than any IEM I've had. I haven't heard an original PF yet, but even this DIY has shown how impressive the soundstage and out of head feeling of these is, so much so that I bought a pair of the Lab II.

It seems to me that the PF housings cause any driver to have a rolled off treble. Aside from soundstage, I would say that is their defining characteristic more than any "coloration" like some people say, just my opinion from tinkering with different drivers and tunings so far. I don't think it will really be possible to get a flat and well extended response from these shells, but that isn't to say they will be missing anything. I think a more mid-centric response is inherent in the design of the shell. Interestingly, I find this much more pleasurable in the DIY PF than I would in a really mid-centric earbud. I think since the PF tips funnel sound so well into your ears, It allows for excellent detail retrieval, which makes the treble roll off just feel laid back more than severely lacking to me.

As far as my opinion on housing material goes, I guess I just don't think there should be any rules like metal is worse than plastic, plastic is worse than wood, etc. I think it is likely different materials cause different responses given the same dimensions and design of housings were created, but I think it would be possible to have an excellent design made from anything really if you understand the properties of the material. Speaker cabinets would be a good example of this. Sure most cabinets are made of wood, but not all wood is created equal. There are solid wood cabinets, mdf, birch ply, etc, and of course the thickness used and bracing design matters as well. There are all kinds of proven designs depending on what you choose. It is impossible to eliminate reflections and coloration completely, but a good understanding of your material and design will allow you to shift coloration to different frequencies. Most speaker cabinet designers decide to either shift to high frequencies with a super stiff cabinet, or try and get them into the lower frequencies and reduce their SPL with a thin, more flexible design. The goal is usually to get them out of the midrange where the human ear picks up the most detail.

Its hard to say for sure, but I suspect this is not nearly as big a deal with earbuds as it is with speaker cabinets. Speakers move way more air, and have much more mechanical movement, and I would think the transfer of energy from driver to cabinet would be a much greater percentage in a speaker than earbud. Maybe I'm wrong though, when you consider how close the earbuds are to your ears it might be just as relevant.

I've already become a big fan of the metal IEM tip design of these PF's. I have been thinking about making some computer models of something similar to have 3D printed for more DIY fun. I think something like a Dunu Titan 1 design using metal tips, and large enough to use 15.4mm earbud drivers could be a cool project. It would take a lot of time, trial and error though.
 
Jul 12, 2017 at 5:14 AM Post #449 of 4,707
Hey, do you remember the Edimun V2 pictorial recipe? I mean, this one. Did he actually drill a hole in the driver in step 4? Has anobody tried doing that?
A comment in the other thread suggested he probably only drills in the glue in the middle. I'd say he actually did drill:) Looks to be maybe 1.5 * the size of the holes at the edge?

@knudsen
Some drivers (but not all) have a hollow rivet in the center, usually they cover it with glue to control bass, maybe in that driver he is only drilling the glue and will find a hole behind it.

Here you can see a case where the hollow rivet connects to the center diaphragm dome in the other side:
https://electroviees.wordpress.com/2013/09/08/how-earphone-works/
 

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