DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Apr 5, 2020 at 4:18 AM Post #9,601 of 10,535
^ Sexy looking cable.

Can anyone point me towards some cable making and soldering guides specially for headphones or that relate to headphones? Having some issues doing repairs that i think are related to tiny wires and small contact areas etc.

Thanks

I’d like to see this too. Most guides and videos I’ve seen gloss over the really difficult soldering of the tiny wires and connectors (especially IEM 2-pin) and concentrate loads braiding and polarity (the polarity you can look up) but then speed up or completely miss things like fine soldering and how to get your cable looking professional, y-splitter selection, heatshrinking tips to avoid damaging the cable casing itself...stuff like that
 
Apr 5, 2020 at 6:38 AM Post #9,603 of 10,535
Cheers Larry.

Does anyone know how much of a different the soldering iron itself makes? I have real problems with my cheapo model when it comes to tinning thin/small wires and that's the most frustrating part of any build I do. Does a decent soldering iron make a difference? And how important are the tips, beyond being good enough to hold their shape at high temperatures?
 
Apr 6, 2020 at 4:53 AM Post #9,606 of 10,535
I’d like to see this too. Most guides and videos I’ve seen gloss over the really difficult soldering of the tiny wires and connectors (especially IEM 2-pin) and concentrate loads braiding and polarity (the polarity you can look up) but then speed up or completely miss things like fine soldering and how to get your cable looking professional, y-splitter selection, heatshrinking tips to avoid damaging the cable casing itself...stuff like that
Use Flux to solder the thin ends. That is a must to form a solid connection that is not a cold joint. Pre-tin both surfaces.
It's easy once you figure it out. Practice....practice...practice.

Heat Shrink is self explanatory, The plastic will mould itself to whatever shape you hold it to when you heat it.
You can throw some heat activated glue on the soldered joints, and cover over with heat shrink to protect the joints and provide some strain relief.
 
Last edited:
Apr 6, 2020 at 7:45 AM Post #9,607 of 10,535
Do you use a fine tip on the iron for finer joints? I did a TRRS connection and a mmcx today with a tip that is like a 3mm wide shovel shape. The mmcx came out pretty good but the TRRS while functionally fine, isn't pretty. Would a needle point be better for those tiny vertical stacked trrs 3.5mm jacks? Also do i just use one wire in an 8 wire config for each positive and ground the rest? I read that is good practice to prevent cross talk on reddit today.
 
Apr 6, 2020 at 7:59 AM Post #9,608 of 10,535
Do you use a fine tip on the iron for finer joints? I did a TRRS connection and a mmcx today with a tip that is like a 3mm wide shovel shape. The mmcx came out pretty good but the TRRS while functionally fine, isn't pretty. Would a needle point be better for those tiny vertical stacked trrs 3.5mm jacks? Also do i just use one wire in an 8 wire config for each positive and ground the rest? I read that is good practice to prevent cross talk on reddit today.
You want to use a big enough tip that heats the joint fast and brings the solder to the it's melting point quickly. Fast enough to do the job properly and not heat the joint long enough to melt the plastic dividers. I would invest in some cheap practice jacks and get your technique right, and figure it out. Do a few dry runs.

If you position the wires so they wrap around the base of the jack, come in sideways, instead of straight on, you will get a better solid connection, and also prevent shorts. USE FLUX. AND PRE-TIN BOTH SURFACES.
The shovel shape tip should be fine. The really tiny ones are for boards and more sensitive parts.

I think 8 wires will be 2 per channel, and 4 ground. There might be someone else that can correct me if I am wrong about that. But that is what I remember being the case for 3.5 mm unbalanced cables.
 
Last edited:
Apr 6, 2020 at 7:49 PM Post #9,611 of 10,535
I've never wired a cable with a mic, so can't be of any help there. Sorry

No worries.

I have to replace the jack on that mic'd cable so i'll probably just copy it's layout. I actually broke the 3.5mm male part by trying to get it to contact properly in my phone.. thinking it was the cable. Turns out the phone's female port is faulty... took me going through three cables to realise as i've never had a female port crap out but had plenty of jacks go. Planning to replace it and learn some pcb soldering as well. Should be fun.

Thanks for your help.
 
Apr 6, 2020 at 8:10 PM Post #9,612 of 10,535
No worries.

I have to replace the jack on that mic'd cable so i'll probably just copy it's layout. I actually broke the 3.5mm male part by trying to get it to contact properly in my phone.. thinking it was the cable. Turns out the phone's female port is faulty... took me going through three cables to realise as i've never had a female port crap out but had plenty of jacks go. Planning to replace it and learn some pcb soldering as well. Should be fun.

Thanks for your help.
I dropped my galaxy phone on top of the 3.5 mm port with a cable attached to it. It broke the port on my phone and destroyed the 3.5mm end, never got around to fixing it because I just use my DAP. Happy soldering, remember go slow, take your time, practice on an old board if you can.
 
Apr 8, 2020 at 6:27 PM Post #9,613 of 10,535
Is Eidolic going out of business or something? Their website is pretty bare bones, and their Facebook hasn't been updated in a long time. I've found a few places that sell Eidolic stuff, but the selection is really limited. I can't find the black mini XLR connectors to save my life.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top