DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Dec 26, 2014 at 11:38 AM Post #3,031 of 10,535
  Special thanks to Shawn and ThurstonX for the advice! I have successfully completed my cable hehe 

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Its kind of ugly but will post it tomorrow!
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and in case you didn't know, there's a Gallery thread here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery
 
Dec 26, 2014 at 11:48 AM Post #3,032 of 10,535
I want to build long 3.5 mm 4 pole connector cables. Cables go from PC, laptop, iphone to 10K input CMoy amp. Amp's input, output are 4 pole, for phone/mic headset, mic signal go direct from amps output to input, than through cable to device.
 
Anyone done this before? What kind of cable to use for L, R and mic? 3x twisted pairs, 3x shilded? Any ideas where to find?
 
Dec 26, 2014 at 1:37 PM Post #3,033 of 10,535
  Most DMM's have a continuity mode. If you look on the dial selector there should be a symbol that looks like a little sound wave. Set the meter to that mode, then touch the leads together. The meter should make a noise letting you know that it has detected continuity.
 
Then, with your cable that has been cut, touch one lead to a spot on one of the connectors that goes into the IEM, and the other lead to one of the 8 cut cables. If it doesn't ring, switch the lead that's on the cut cables until you get a ring. Repeat this step 8 times until you identify each of the 8 cut cables. There should be 3 different "channels", a common ground that goes to both IEM's, a right channel that goes to the right IEM alone, and a left channel that goes to the left IEM alone. Once you identify what signal each wire is supposed to carry, you can terminate it to the 3.5mm jack accordingly. Because you have 8 wires, more than 1 wire will carry the same signal, so you can group them together.
 
If your DMM doesn't have a continuity mode, you can use the resistance mode (Ohm meter). The Ohm meter will display a small resistance when you find continuity, similar to when the meter would ring on continuity mode. However, this can be semi-unreliable depending on the situation.
 
Edit: To clarify, continuity in this case means able to complete a circuit - if you touch two conductors with the leads of the meter and the meter doesn't ring, then the two leads are not in contact with eachother, and the circuit is broken. (0 Ohms would show on an ohm meter)

 
 
Thank you very much.
Attempted today and although I would've done a few things differently (individual heatshrink for each set of wires and so on), I succeeded and I now have a working cable once again. Again, thanks a bunch and Merry Christmas.
 
Dec 26, 2014 at 10:44 PM Post #3,035 of 10,535
Ok, so this guy did a 4-wire braid for each cable. That's more than necessary - for RCA cables, you only need 2 wires to each connector. So, he soldered 2 wires to each terminal.

Each wire has only 1 conductor in it, and is covered with clear insulation. So, he took 4 lengths of the copper cable, braided it, then terminated it. (To terminate means to put the connector onto the wire)

So, if one of these cables was 5 feet long, he would have had to order at least 20 feet of wire (again, because 4 wires x 5 feet = 20)

He didn't use any heat shrink or outer sleeving at all. It gives it sort of a raw look. So yeah, this is a relatively simple cable to make. The braiding was the hardest part.

In your case, you would use 3 conductors instead of 4. (Unless you wanted to have a really chunky looking cable, then you could use more conductors and solder multiple conductors to each lead in the connectors, but only 3 is required)

I hope this is helping. If you have any more questions, I'll do my best to help, but I am by no means a DIY expert. 

I am very much looking forward to making my first cable, though :)


Made my first cable tonight! Works great too I'm pumped.
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 11:47 AM Post #3,037 of 10,535
 
 
My DIY Cable

I uses 24AWG Pure Copper Silver Plated cable, Neutrk Jack and Shakmod cable sleeve.

For each channel, I use double 24AWG Pure Copper Silver Plated cable and a total of 14 strands. 

Couldn't have done it without help from both offline and online! 

 
Copied this from gallery thread.
 
Question : what is the use of using more than one strands, what is the sonic advantage we get by doing that?

 
Dec 27, 2014 at 1:28 PM Post #3,038 of 10,535
   
Copied this from gallery thread.
 
Question : what is the use of using more than one strands, what is the sonic advantage we get by doing that?

I think it's an aesthetic thing. The sonic advantages of any aftermarket cable at all varies between everyone. In other words, you really need to judge for yourself. Many stand behind the performance upgrades of cables, while others scoff at the idea.
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 1:31 PM Post #3,039 of 10,535
Copied this from gallery thread.

Question : what is the use of using more than one strands, what is the sonic advantage we get by doing that?



Edit: it says 14 strands. I didn't see that. It's a total of 6 wires. Each wire is built of 7 twisted strands which is the lowest count before solid core. I normally recommend never going below a 19 strand count because I find even that to be too stiff.

No sonic advantage. It could actuality be detrimental due to increased capacitance. Lots of factors to consider.
It's a style choice more than anything. It can also be a, "look what I can do" kinda thing as well. Nothing wrong with that I suppose.
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 6:34 PM Post #3,041 of 10,535
yes everyone is his own best judge, let me start with Silver vs  Copper wire for JVC 850's. I am kind of annoyed with rolled of highs, will interesting to check how it will sound with pure sliver cables.
 
Thanks for all input.
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 7:25 PM Post #3,042 of 10,535
   
Copied this from gallery thread.
 
Question : what is the use of using more than one strands, what is the sonic advantage we get by doing that?

 
If the wires are very thin (I'm not really familiar with AWG sizing) main reason to use lots of strands (more than 4) is to make the final product thicker, hence doesn't break easily and less flimsy. 
 
There's also a theory that very thin cables may not be enough to deliver the needed current. This is the theory in speakers cables, because speakers requires quite a lot of amount of current. Headphones should use small current to operate, though. Well, maybe inefficient headphones like older orthos need more current though. 
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 8:07 PM Post #3,043 of 10,535
yes everyone is his own best judge, let me start with Silver vs  Copper wire for JVC 850's. I am kind of annoyed with rolled of highs, will interesting to check how it will sound with pure sliver cables.

Thanks for all input.


Save your money. It won't extend the frequency response. You'll need to play around with other dampening factors if you want more upper presence.
I own the 850. Tried it with various cables of my own build and others. Front and rear dampening will do a lot more to the frequency response than a cable.
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 9:06 PM Post #3,044 of 10,535
 
yes everyone is his own best judge, let me start with Silver vs  Copper wire for JVC 850's. I am kind of annoyed with rolled of highs, will interesting to check how it will sound with pure sliver cables.

Thanks for all input.


Save your money. It won't extend the frequency response. You'll need to play around with other dampening factors if you want more upper presence.
I own the 850. Tried it with various cables of my own build and others. Front and rear dampening will do a lot more to the frequency response than a cable.

 
Ahhh... good to know
 
you refer to these mods, james444 posted on JVC 850 thread?
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/708427/the-new-jvc-fx850-woodie-perfection-a-review/2430#post_11162332
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 10:13 PM Post #3,045 of 10,535
Ahhh... good to know

you refer to these mods, james444 posted on JVC 850 thread?

http://www.head-fi.org/t/708427/the-new-jvc-fx850-woodie-perfection-a-review/2430#post_11162332


Yes. Those mods will have a greater impact on frequency response than cable. The one exception would be a bad cable.

I find that many people will mistakenly perceive benefits from silver based cables that can be attributed to the slight volume increase that comes with the slightly increase in conductance.

I'll see people A/B without volume matching.

Not saying there aren't differences, but I never suggest cables as a way to "fix" an undesirable FR.
 

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